UKC

Single rope for indoor/outdoor sport climbing

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 fenski 08 Oct 2020

Which are the nicest handling ropes for indoor/outdoor sport climbing?? 

I currently have a Mammut (don't remember the model) but the handlnig is terrible compared to other ropes I've owned. Very stiff and twists really easily. The first one I had was returned and replaced under warranty. Also makes my hands black, but I think that is something to do with the dry treatment. 

In the past had a tendon rope, which was much nicer handling. 

Weight not really an issue, as I will be using it indoors or at sport crags. I have other ropes for alpine & multi-pitch. Size, I guess somewhere around 9.5 to 10 mm is preferred?? Would like something that will last a while. 

Not sure if I'd bother with the dry treatment again, as I only climb outdoors when it's pretty dry, and it's dry indoors. Think this might have been part of the issue with the Mammut rope. 

Happy to hear opinions. 

 Climber_Bill 08 Oct 2020
In reply to fenski:

I've been using the Mammut Infinity Classic for a while. That has been very good. Tough enough to withstand working sessions, but light enough for onsights and redpoints. Also used it at Riglos last year and it was fine for multi-pitch as well.

Just started on a new Infinity with the Protect coating. It feels slightly slicker with better handling, but that could just be because I know it has a better coating.

A good rope in my opinion.

 PaulW 08 Oct 2020
In reply to fenski:

what ever you end up with I would be tempted to buy a cheap durable wall rope and save your nice 60/70/80m rope for outside.

treat the indoor rope as a consumable item, it will get trashed but for £50 or so it is not the end of the world.

In reply to fenski:

The blackness on your hands is probably due to aluminium oxide coming from the gear you use - and dirt in general. Washing the rope will help on this but not the handling. Actually, the handling may become worse temporarily.

1
 Iamgregp 08 Oct 2020
In reply to fenski:

Petzl contact 9.8 is a great handling rope. Doesn’t seem the most hard wearing but if that’s not a priority I’d really recommend it.

 Mark Stevenson 08 Oct 2020
In reply to fenski:

Paul's advice is good - use a shorter and cheaper rope for indoors, and save your better, longer and more expensive rope for outdoors. Also, as mentioned the black stuff comes from the metalwork and is only indirectly due to the roughness/handling of the rope. 

In general, dry treated ropes will always handle and last much better.

However, the new UIAA dry standard is very demanding so ropes now tend to split much more dramatically between cheap non-dry ones and really expensive UIAA dry ones. Mid-priced ones with sheath only treatments that give better handling (and limited water repellancy) that would previously have been a popular choice, don't tend to be as widely available any more. (Although as TJB says, Mammut still do their Protect treatment if you can find them in stock.) 

Mammut ropes vary massively. The basic ones always tend to have stiff handling (although they tend to be durable), however the top of the range UIAA dry rated ones like the Serenity are utterly superb.

The same is true to a lesser extent with Beal. The excellent value Karma (as sold by GoOutdoors) isn't amazing but most other Beal models tend to have really good handling. 

Other manufacturers' basic ropes often tend to be slightly less stiff and better handling than Mammut but it does varies especially with Decathlon/Simmons where reviews seem to oscillate from dire to amazing.

FWIW, I've a short length of Edelrid rope which I think is their Anniversary model which is utterly superb. However, at full price for 60m+ it's not cheap. 

In short, if you want good handling you'll probably need to pay more or quickly buy the same as a partner's rope that you've decided you like before the model is changed or replaced. 

OP fenski 09 Oct 2020
In reply to PaulW:

Depending on where I climb indoors, I can need up to a 70m rope, so it doesn't male sense to buy two. 

Would a cheap wall rope still handle nicely for lead climbing??

OP fenski 09 Oct 2020
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

My reverso is pretty worn, with all the anodising removed, which might explain the balckness then. 

Based on the feel in the shop, I was looking at either Beal or Petzl ropes, so there are a couple of suggestions to look at. 

Post edited at 13:23
In reply to fenski:

I've been using the petzl mambo 10.1 all summer and am pretty happy with it so far!


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