UKC

"These days we're bombarded by images of honed athletes powering up wildly overhanging rock and it's difficult to comprehend what it must have been like for Rob Matheson when he decided to attempt the imposing groove-line of Paladin at White Ghyll in the Lake District back in 1970.

"For a start, there were no climbing gyms for refining your skills and training hadn't been conceived. There were no bolts, pre-practice was frowned upon and an onsight ethic prevailed. But most notably, trad protection in those days was a token gesture - a home-made nut tied-off with a piece of hemp-line wedged in a crack, and that's if you were lucky! It's no surprise that most of the routes at the time were slabs or vertical walls and an overhang like Paladin would have been considered incomprehensible. There are many strong climbers today who would still be intimidated by a route like Paladin, and rightly so. It really can't be conveyed in words just how 'out there' it would have been over half a century ago."

- Neil Gresham

That was absolutely amazing.

I've met Rob a few times over the years and have been star-struck each time, not least because of what he's done, but also because of what he's still doing - it's inspirational on all levels (and also a bit mind-blowing).

Great article too Nick. It's definitely got me psyched to repeat some of his routes as/when we're allowed to travel again. That said, I'm going to have to put some time into training for them, because not many of them are easy!!

I've had this same feeling very strongly once - while leading the top pitch of Vulture at Cilan. 1968... proper E4, and WAY out there. Jack Street, what a legend.

Perhaps the mid-career climbing break is no bad thing g as you return more hungry. Great article. I seem to recall climbing with one of Robs's mates (Stuart) when I was doing my ML in 1974. Seems a lifetime away.

Brilliant article and videos. Really enjoyed Rob's walkthrough of Paladin.

By the by, IIRC, both Central Buttress and Tophet Wall were subject to abseil inspection. Some people's ethics were based mostly on mythology....

Totally agree. I think Central Buttress was subject to more than abseil inspection! There's an argument for regarding it as the first (or an early) worked project/headpoint. I guess that Austin & co viewed it simply as an historial anomaly rather than a different way of doing things. 

It's probably hard (or impossible?) for people now to appreciate just how powerful an influence the mountainering ethos once had on rock climbing. (By 1970 it had been around for about a century.) With this ethos, of course you start at the bottom and end up at the top. However once you abandon the ethos, you can pretty much do what you like as long as a) you don't damage the rock and b) you don't lie about stuff.

At the time I had considerable sympathy with those on both sides of the divide. But the conflict was handled poorly - as it would be, a decade later, with the bolt wars. In particular, I feel that the treatment meted out to Rob Matheson was downright unfair. It's probably rare for such stories to have happy endings and I'm glad that this one does. That he's climbing so well, 50 years later, is testament to a lot of talent, a lot of motivation and a lot of hard work. Long may it continue!

Mick

Great article and videos. Climbed at White Ghyll a few times last year  but only got as far as 'looking up' Palladin. It'll def be on the list now but have I lost the onsight?

Amazing to be still doing those routes at 70ish.  Still hope for me as not too far behind (in age)

Best ask Allan Austin!

First met Al at Crags football match at Stoney in the 70,s. Never met him again until about 2015 at Trollers Gill. Impressive comeback and makes me want to train now I’ve hit 70. Did climb with Ed once on Cloggy in ,79.

Yeah. Well done Rob.

Marvel at the footwork and body positioning on the videos. Good old fashioned technique. The strong fingers are only a bonus.

Don't think so. Those days were long gone. 

Cams turned up in '78. And there had been excellent micros and hexentrics for a while. 

Great route though. 

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Not far out, no need for dislikes IMHO.

The hemp and drilled out nuts would be common in the late 50s when Rob started climbing.

Things had moved on a lot by 1970,  only really improving a lot when chouinard and wild country gear became available.

What a bloke!

Brilliant, I really enjoyed that.

Excellent, he made it look like a path, totally in control.

Great article and a great video from ‘ Angry Pensioner Productions’ (great name) - perhaps it’s just I’m a climber of a certain age, but that format of first ascentionist repeat video and historical context really strikes a chord. More angry pensioners on video please - bravo UKC ! 

What an inspirational article.  We see Rob down at the Kendal Wall and not only does he inspire the rest of us with his endless energy and enthusiasm, he is a thoroughly good bloke too.  

If I remember clearly, wasn't it standard practice to climb it using aid or even combined tactics - lashing oneself to the chockstone? And Menlove Edwards was the first to climb the Great Flake free in 1933.

I agree Mick, Rob was treated very badly and unfairly back in the 70’s. I met Rob again in Kalymnos a couple of years ago, he was climbing really well and floating up routes that I struggled on. He said he wasn’t climbing but just having a holiday! A real trad hero.

Chris

Neil needs to brush-up on his training history as a training guru. Unstructured training effectively happened from the early days and formal training happened from the mid 50s with John Gill's efforts and was well established in the UK at Leeds Wall from the mid 60s.

“home-made nut tied-off with a piece of hemp-line wedged in a crack” - not really historically accurate for 1970. There were plenty of commercially produced nuts around - though a lot were pretty crap, plus I started in 1965 and never came across hemp rope 

Chris

Brilliant. More of climbing's 'secret' history please. Love this stuff.

JC

The line of Paladin caught my eye a few years back, I can't resist a roof. Finally got on it last summer and it did not disappoint! Up there with routes like Cruel Sister and Pink Panther. I flew off the latter and some old bloke offered some beta... only realised later it was the first ascensionist of some of my favourite Lakes routes! Still owe you that pint for the beta...

Hello Rob, there’s a very strong possibility I am one of the climbers in the black and white still on your excellent video. I first met you in White Ghyll around that time and I remember looking up from below and watching you climb an incredibly steep overhanging corner. I had no idea who you were back then or what the route was  but chatting to a local climber later they said it was you putting up a new route on the crag. My friend Bill Hepplewhite who was leading always wore knee length breeches, as I said I wouldn’t like to guarantee it was us , but it’s quite a coincidence.