UKC

NW Scotland recommendations

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 ruthmj 09 Apr 2021
Thread moved from Rocktalk to Destinations

Thinking about heading up to NW Scotland in May, trying to work out where to stay, any recommendations for big, easy south-facing routes?

 Drexciyan 09 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

Fionn buttress on carnmore

 CurlyStevo 09 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

Off topic I know, but  I would keep reiff, old man of stoer and sheigra in the bag as average weather options. I've had whole week trips up there in May / June when mountain routes are out, but still climbed every day. These are real quality venues that you'll remember for the rest of your life. Also midge light. If you are camping go to clachtoll beach campsite!

Post edited at 23:48
 CurlyStevo 09 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

If you want a lot of options at long easy / mid grade mountain routes, you probably want to stay more towards torridon area (plus minus 25 miles crow flying). That said personally I prefer Assynt as an area (in general), i love it up there but the long routes are much more limited. When you are planning remember the roads are mostly single track and bendy and its takes a fair amount of time to travel around the place.

Post edited at 23:53
 CurlyStevo 09 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

I think this is an option worth investigating, its very good route https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sgurr_a_chaorachain_highland-772/c...

if you can lead VS this is superb and quite soft if your used to grit, good gear where you need it IIRC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sgurr_a_chaorachain_highland-772/s...

Post edited at 00:00
 aln 10 Apr 2021
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> if you can lead VS this is superb and quite soft if your used to grit, good gear where you need it IIRC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sgurr_a_chaorachain_highland-772/s...

+1 for that. Great rock, great route, great setting. 

Removed User 10 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

Not sure how big or how easy the routes should be but November Grooves on Stac Pollaidh or suchlike might fit the bill.

 baldie 10 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

Nothing of any interest over there. Far better going to the Lakes.

 Siward 10 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

I wouldn't go. I'm reluctant to revisit my regular haunts in the most beautiful place on earth because it seems (from ukc anyway) that they've been ruined forever by bloody humans. Profoundly depressing.

Edit. Do go, but backpack if you can, avoid the roads. 

Post edited at 14:38
 dominic o 10 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

So many great crags to choose from, and I'd +1 vote for Sheigra and Reif as options when the big hills aren't in. However, to pick up your specific question about long, easy, s-facing routes, Sword of Gideon on the South Face of Sgurr a’ Chaorachain 

Sword of Gideon (VS 4c)

... ticks all of your boxes whilst being almost roadside! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/05/11/applecross-sgurr-a-chaorachain/

There are also great mountain routes without too much of a slog on Stac Pollaidh

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/05/15/stac-pollaidh-weather-to-fly/

Check out https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/uk/scotland/ for another couple of dozen suggestions.

Might see you up there - fingers crossed for the weather (and easing of travel restrictions!) 

 aln 10 Apr 2021
In reply to Removed User:

> November Grooves on Stac Pollaidh

Is that the one with a big flat belay ledge you could sleep on? 

 Lrunner 10 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

Don't think its south facing but Cioch nose is ace.  Plus the walk in is DOWN HILL. Think about that!

but https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sgurr_a_chaorachain_highland-772/c...

Post edited at 20:14
 peter.herd 10 Apr 2021
In reply to ruthmj:

I'd suggest buying and reading 1 or all of these books as an ideal way to gain a good understanding of the options in relation to where you might stay, the weather, the remoteness,  the aspect, the feel, the type of climbing etc. 

Scottish Rock North 

https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/uk-scotland/pesda-press/scottish-rock-volum...

The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland

https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/the-great-mountain-crags-of-s...

The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland

https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/great-sea-cliffs-of-scotlan...

Pete 

 Wicamoi 10 Apr 2021
In reply to peter.herd:

Good answer: the first for information, the second and third for inspiration.

OP ruthmj 10 Apr 2021

Ace, thanks for your suggestions everyone! 


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