UKC

I've missed the climbing walls being open over the winter - particularly the sociability of after-work wall sessions with friends. But, I was also quite worried I would lose strength and ability...

Instead of going to the wall, I got out on real rock as much as restrictions and weather allowed, bouldering even in truly bitter weather - and being snowed off a couple of times. When restrictions or weather didn't allow, I ran in the hills, did basic conditioning exercises and used a fingerboard.

Already this year I've ticked my hardest climbs in bouldering and trad, and made good progress on some hard sport routes. I feel like more development is to come. There hasn't been the usual "shock" of going back to rock, find everything scary and strange. Instead, just the joy of improving weather allowing better and longer outings.

It all makes me wonder whether climbing walls are pretty pointless for most intermediate climbers, except as a place to hangout with friends and meet people when the weather is really foul... Like a pub without the beer, but with more skin-tight clothing... Perhaps they're... overrated?! I certainly doubt I'll be heading to one any time soon...!

Three final shortcomings of walls for training:

1. You know where the holds are
2. The feet are all far too big and the hands not sharp/painful enough
3. There are no cracks

Cheers!

This is all true, but when you live in London like I do, the only outdoor climbing which is really doable in a day is Southern Sandstone and that's sodden and out of condition though most of the winter.

If there was decent climbing that I could get to and from in a day then maybe I'd need walls less, but it's that or nowt really!

Clearly you live near proper rock, and that's cool.  For those of us who have a 2+ hour drive to it (rubbish Leicestershire quarries don't really count) walls are important.

If I have a couple of hours to spare I can go and get a lot more exercise at the bouldering wall on my own than at the crag (it's about the same time door to the first hold).  Obviously the grades are softer at the wall than at the crag (especially Ramshaw) and it's not proper climbing but it least it doesn't rain (or snow) when you'd most like to get some mileage in.

And the padding doesn't blow away.

Slightly off topic but I was under the impression that Leicestershire had seen a huge surge in development in recent years with loads now well documented and information easily available on the internet. I would have thought that a decent set of lamps (mine were only £14 in B and Q) anyone reasonably local ought to be able to have an after work bouldering session on rock that's better* than going to the wall. MK to Leicester is only about an hr in the car. 

*better, depending on what you're trying to achieve obviously. 

And when it's dark? 

I'm with you. I agree that I am not drawn to gyms at all. I have a short commute to rocks, a short, steep home wall and decent gym set up. All very enjoyable. I totally get why people who don't have some of or all of the above would find gyms indispensable and I get why some people would miss the social aspect of climbing with other people. 

Erm, lamps, headtorches. Sorted.

The climbing wall is just a tool. 

Many use it improperly.

Depending on your definition of the purpose of the tool ofcourse. For some, it's just adult softplay.

It is, yes, but Big Rock at Kingston takes me 8 minutes (40 minutes cycling) and Bletchley takes about 10 (20 minutes cycling).  So that's the difference between a quick climb after work or at lunchtime, and a full evening, getting back late.

(Yes, the cycling times are the opposite way round from the driving times - that's because apart from about 200m it's 70mph all the way to Kingston, but 30 almost all the way to Bletchley - Kingston is roughly twice as far)

When it's dark... Yeh, that was a bit challenging. Some of the local students went lamping. I prefered to run, hangboard and steal hours of day time here and there. Obviously, it's all a bit tongue in cheek... There were definitely times I would have wanted to go to the wall!

And that matters because?  (I'm assuming you're being disparaging by comparing it to a childrens' activity)

Indoor climbing has become a sport in its own right.  There are indoor climbers who will never place a nut or clip a bolt (in rock).  I really don't see any reason why that should be a problem.

That is an issue, it's true. I take your point. My advice would be to move! The south is expensive and flat anyway... But, yes, obviously - if there ent no rock, plastic'll have t'do.

Would be lying if I said it hadn't crossed my mind.  But if I do move north any time soon it'll likely be to Ormskirk where my family live...which is also in the flatlands and about the same journey time to proper rock as MK is!  MK is considerably hillier than West Lancashire, indeed.

I meant it to be a bit tongue in cheek, but more seriously, I do think Covid has changed how I think about training. Finger-strength training on a hangboard for one year has given me more noticeable gains than indoor bouldering for two years. And pull-ups/push-ups/core, though very simple exercises, have also really helped. Then spending more time with the subtleties of real rock... well, it's working so far... even if there's always far more to be learnt.

I still think I'll be back indoors eventually, during the bleakest parts of winter, but even those bitterly cold days climbing outside where not much got done were rewarding in their ways.

When it's Dark, Wet, Cold and you live in Norwich?

I seem to recall J Moffat and others massively improved by training hard inside.

Of course walls aren't pointless (unless you have year round access to plenty of climbing in daylight hours with reliable weather - and even then they would have their uses).

Not at all! 

You will note I said, "Depending on your definition of the purpose of the tool."

It could well be that you go the wall just to have fun. The OP suggested walls were useless because he was climbing better without visiting the wall regularly.

is it for improvement in performance or leisure? Or something in between? That ofcourse is up to you. 

BB

Couldn't agree more. Happy climbing!

Ah, fair enough, then, I misinterpreted you.  In that case, yes, it basically is adult soft play, I climb (inside and out) because I enjoy it and have no particular view of training, I'm happy to drag my excessive podge up lowish grades provided there's enough variety.

True. But, of course I know that! I'm just being contentious because it occurs to me that walls are a bit overrated. Doesn't Dan Varian (according to myth and legend) only boulder or fingerboard? He seems to be climbing well! Of course, a warm and dry place to hang out with friends is welcome, nonetheless...!

Don't be daft, you could get to Anglezarke in half an hour, where does half an hour from Milton Keynes get you (apart from half an hour away from Milton Keynes, which must be a bonus)? 

Fair point, didn't think of the Lancashire stuff, I was thinking Lakes/Peak/Wales (all of which are within an hour to 90 minutes of there, something I do miss down here with the Peak in 2.5hrs, North Wales in 4 and the Lakes 4.5).

Ormskirk is pleasant enough though utterly uninteresting (apart from most of my family living there), but it does have the advantage of ease of access to lots of nice places.

Rubbish quarries in Leicestershire... rubbish climbers not in Leicestershire methinks...

Brrrr.............. Norwich?! I dunno. Take up kite surfing, cycling, beer or something equally desperate?

Finger strenght hang ups...push ups...these I have no interest in. Rather push pins up my fingernails. 10 minute cycle from two walls. That's where I'll be. 

Even the nearest crag's drive there and back is a session at the wall. And I only get a fraction of the climbing done. 

The word desperate is a bit strong.... I mean, without getting too existential, isn't it all a bit 'desperate'? Tongue firmly in cheek, but hope the point can be seen? 😊

Haven’t regressed as much as I feared despite no climbing or training for over 3 months but:

Social aspects / something to look forward to after work.

3 months is long but not that long. A year off with little outdoor climbing for half of that time (I don’t boulder outdoors) would start making a difference after a while. 

Not as fit as I was previously and certainly won’t be setting PBs.

Tendons don’t like time off.

Good, so you can train as opposed to trying to onsight.

Good, so you can train on steep / overhanging terrain without having to be a wad and your skin won’t give out before your muscles either.

Good, so you can train for general climbing and fitness helps with cracks as well.

Walls are primarily for training, not climbing or technique.  

It sounds like, what was holding you back from climbing harder outside were psychological things (like fear/unfamiliarity) and some specific outdoor technique and tactics (like finding and using holds in the rock rather than having holds 'given' to you). If this was the case, then you're right, more indoor climbing probably wasn't going to help you as much.

For people whose major weaknesses are things like strength, stamina, more basic movement technique, etc, wall climbing may give them greater improvements quicker. Especially compared to climbing at outdoor crags where rope-work faff or walk in/walk off distance means they only get a few routes in a day.

I just like the easy access to coffee and cake.

Must admit, I hadn't appreciated how important core is until I had a large section of my abdomen sliced through during surgery.  Once back on the rock about 8 weeks later my core was (obviously) very weak, and took about a year before it felt 100% normal. 

To get it back into shape I've concentrated on this area of training a bit more (mostly using the Sierra Blair Coyle youtube 8 minute core exercises - can't imagine why ) and as a result that area of my physique has become quite a bit stronger compared to what it was pre-op.  The results when trying my old routes at around my max level (7a to 7b ish) is quite pronounced.  Moves that I mostly had to give quite a bit of grunt to just hit on the deadpoint I now tend to hit about 4 inches above and (until i adjust) faff around wondering where the hold has gone (generally it's a lot below where I'm expecting it to be).

Now all I need to sort out is my footwork

It once got me back into Milton keynes - which was disappointing.  (Navigation is not my strong point).

So you are really saying '...walls are pointless if you live in Kalymnos'.

Exactly  

Nah, I'm just saying, I've learnt something by having to turn my routine upside down. Hopefully others have too.

In reality, walls are a great place for many things - e.g. sociability, inclusive climbing, learning new things in safety, or introducing novices in a way that is fun and doesn't trash our crags. 

But - from now on I will think differently about their role in training.