UKC

Making vague plans for when we can travel. In laws live in Falkland and we'll probably stay a bit longer next time we go up, so been looking at the local cragging.

Interested in classic trad VS-E1 and sport up to 6c/7a, so thinking Hawkscraig and some Angus sandstone? That's just from browsing the maps on here.

Any tips from locals? I'll be on my own so would be great to hear from any potential partners.

In reply to Mike Stretford:

Polney Crag (Craig a Barns) and  Dunkeld, Cave Crag would be a good place to start I'd say. Decent range of grades and stars. Not too far from Falkland either.

In reply to Mike Stretford:

Limekilns is also worth considering for trad - more sheltered than Hawkcraig and not dependent on the right tide times. 

In reply to Mike Stretford:

If you're thinking of the Angus quarries then Legaston is probably the one that would suit you best. Ley is good but takes a bit of getting used to unless you're very good at crimping and Balmashanner is just just too hard.

A worthwhile piece of esoterica is the sandstone block just north of Boarhills near St. Andrews. Good for an evening's bouldering and it has a few routes on it, it's about 30 feet high. Park at the farm, head down to the shore and walk towards St. Andrews for maybe half a mile. You can't miss it. I haven't been there for more than 25 years but I doubt access will have changed much.

In reply to Removed User: Thanks Eric, I'd missed Legaston on the map..... it get's a lot more stars than Kirrie Hill, though I suspect Kirrie Hill's no star status might be a logbook quirk?

In reply to Mike Stretford:

No idea I'm afraid. I think the crag was developed after I left the area.

In reply to Mike Stretford:

Scottish Sport Climbs didn’t allocate stars at Kirrie. 7a Max did.

I think the idea was that as route quality is pretty evenly spread there was no point.

The climbing’s interesting enough that most routes probably merit one or two stars (on the Scottish Sport scale). 

Top tip - wear a helmet. Particularly at the bottom. For the same reason park any kids well back.

In reply to S Andrew:

Ah right, thanks, sounds like it's worth a visit.

In reply to Mike Stretford:

I'll second Dunkeld. Less than a hour from Falkland, probably the best spread of routes at your trad grades for a couple of days or one busy day. The sport routes at Cave might be a bit hard. Hawkcraig 2nd choice, you'll get every route done in a day. I don't know what the access situation is at Limekilns just now.

In reply to 65:

Access at Limekilns is fine.

In reply to Mike Stretford:

Glen Clova is doable in a day. A wonderful place, go for Proud Corner.