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Wild camping and climbing in Dartmoor

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 alex505c 26 Apr 2021

Thinking about going to Dartmoor over the holiday weekend to climb and wild-camp. Are there any good quiet spots nearish Haytor and/or the Dewerstone, or if necessary father afield?

Also wondering about the parking situation. Can you leave your car at the usual spots overnight? And would it be safe to leave gear in the boot or is it better to carry it (at least pricey cams) to camp? 

Lastly, are there any other especially good climbing options in the general area? Is Chudleigh worthwhile? 

Post edited at 11:23
 Phil79 26 Apr 2021
In reply to alex505c:

Lots of options in terms of where to camp, although strictly speaking you should only camp in the areas shown in blue on map below, although these rules are routinely bent (for better or worse), mainly as most people don't seem to be aware of them.

https://www.dartmoor.gov.uk/about-us/about-us-maps/camping-map

Wherever you do end up, keep out of the way, not by a car park, pitch late and leave early, don't leave a mess, no fires, etc. All usual sensible wild camp stuff.

Both Dewerstone and Haytor/Lowman worth a look. Dewerstone especially good for mid grade multi-pitch routes and is much more sheltered than Haytor/Lowman, particularily in easterly wind we have at moment. Other worthwhile spots on the high moor are Bonehill (bouldering), Hound Tor, Bench Tor, and Luckey Tor (lovely walk in).

Chudleigh also has some fantastic routes, bit of sun trap and usually very sheltered, but polished in the lower grades.

I would try not to leave stuff in car if you can help it, I've not heard of any car break ins recently, but there have been periods in the past when it becomes a problem, especially at popular car parks. If you can park (sensibly) in a village and walk out from there, might be better option. 

Lots of worthwhile crags in Torbay area too. Sport - Torbryan Quarry, Ansteys. Trad - LQP/Sanctuary Wall, Telegraph Hole, Daddyhole, etc.  

Have fun!

Post edited at 11:29
OP alex505c 27 Apr 2021
In reply to Phil79:

Cheers! Very helpful. Last Exit to Torquay at Daddyhole looks fun. 

 Donotello 28 Apr 2021
In reply to Phil79:

Don’t forget sheep’s tor. Probably my favourite spot on the moor. Haytor is usually way too windy. Chudleigh is ok but the low grades are hella polished. 


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