UKC

Gudmund Grønhaug and Cristiano Costa explain in detail the causes of finger pain in relation to climbing.

Fingers are the most common place to have an injury or develop pain in climbing. A total of 41.3% of those who have had a climbing injury in the last 6 months reported a finger-related injury. Men are almost twice more likely to report that they have an injury to their fingers than women (45.3% men and 29.2% women).

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is there a reason why out of 6 featured pictures all are of men with one unknown (the scan picture)? 

Maybe because men are 55% more likely to report a finger injury?

I would suggest if the gender imbalance of the hands is what you've taken away from this article, that you have developed an unhealthy pre-occupation. 

I'm sure I saw somewhere that women were genetically less likely to get finger injuries as well?

Good content. I would add that considering how deeply this article went into the structures of the hands/fingers, more pictures illustrating what it was saying would have gone a long way. 

This was well written, which made it easier to follow, but there's only so far ones imagination can go

Women are just harder than men and don't winge and wine.

🤔

They certainly seem to spend less time preoccupied with how 'strong' they are. 

Agreed, I need more pics illustrating all the techy wording

True. It's cos the men binge and bheer  

i would argue that those stats can be quite biased as based on self reported ratio of total injuries (instead of actual prevelence) in the study based on 75% of male participants. but even if correct, the ratio of pictures is nowhere near the ratio of injuries. should women not get representation because are less likely to get injured?

what i’ve taken away, apart from the actual knowledge, is continuous lack or representation of women in climbing. ukc was very vocal about sexism after the death of sarah everett, but seems to be reverting back to its old ways.

As women are being criminally under-represented in finger tendon injury photos on climbing forums, I encourage women to post their finger tendon injury photos in the thread below which can then be submitted to the article. 

For this article, it was simply me working with what I had out of my own back catalogue of photos. Thanks for highlighting - we'll aim to address issues like this in future pieces.

We are trying to up the ante in terms of women's specific articles and I think we're heading in the right direction, although we're constantly reassessing where we're at. Here are some that we've published over the past month or so:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/inclusion_in_the_outdoors_a_su...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/how_it_feels_to_be_a_fat_femal...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/meet_the_activists_helping_to_...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/womens_climbing_in_iran_bounda...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/reclaim_these_peaks_-_womens_s...

thanks for a reply. its nice to see those articles being featured on here and it has been noticed, it would also be nice to see women being represented in other climbing articles, not just women specific ones. the whole industry seems to be struggling with that. 

This! Women's inclusion should be the norm in issues that have an impact on them (like injuries) not an 'extra'.