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Climbing Allgau

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 Nanci Traynor 14 Jun 2021
Thread moved from Destinations to Destinations

We are looking for information on multi pitch (max 8 pitches), not to difficult (max 6-) and lonely in the Allgau region.

We heard the area was busy in which we want the opposite.

Any body have recent experience here?

Thank you

 MischaHY 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Nanci Traynor:

Busy is a very subjective state! My experience is that most locations will be relatively quiet with a few parties underway. This is the newest guide as far as I'm aware: https://www.panico.de/alpinkletterfuehrer-allgaeu.html but it is in German so you'll need to spend a little time with Google Translate interpreting the descriptions if you don't speak the language. 

It's a beautiful area with many fantastic routes. Despite the routes being bolted, depending on who equipped the route you can expect anything from perfectly bolted routes to bold undertakings with long runouts and a mix of bolts and trad protection. It's important to be aware of the nature of the route before committing because some 6's can be very mentally taxing and hard for the grade, especially in the classics. 

Enjoy your trip and feel free to PM with specific questions There are also some other folks living in the area on here so you should get some good answers!

 Toerag 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Nanci Traynor:

How far east are you willing to go, I have the Wetterstein guidebook I can scan stuff from if you like? I can't comment on busyness though.

 tjekel 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Nanci Traynor:

We found the Tannheimer part of Allgäu near perfect regarding your grade spectrum. Routes are generally rather short (mainly 5-8 pitches), from classics to plaisir, and mostly reach real summit with more or less alpine descents. There is so much to choose from that you can easily walk on and have a route to yourself if you so wish. Probably not to much traffic during the week. 

However, if you really want to see a climbers only paradise I'd reccomend Oberreintal just as Toerag. Especially good for hot days midsummer.

cb294 14 Jun 2021
In reply to Nanci Traynor:

The Allgäu is most famous/notorious for its near vertical grass. Routes like the Rädlergrat on Himmelhorn scare me shitless. Grass up to 70deg, creative pro, people use either trainers or B3 boots and crampons....

Supposedly there is also excellent limestone multipitch. I will hopefully find out, as I will move there in six weeks time!

CB


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