UKC

Replacement for WC tech friend 0.5

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 Max factor 11 Jul 2021

Can anyone help with what the equivalent size DMM cam is for a red WC tech friend 0.5? A half size 'new' WC friend is shown as comparable to the purple no. 1 dragon, but the tech friend sizing seems smaller.

And if choosing between Dragon of Dragonfly does it make a diff at this size?

thanks

Post edited at 15:28
 Suncream 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

I find this website very useful:

https://camparator.com/

 C Witter 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

Might be worth considering a microcam, e.g. grey or yellow alien; grey dragonfly. I find they fit tight placements really nicely and are very flexible, so don't shift so easily in shallower placements or uneven pockets.

OP Max factor 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Suncream:

Thanks, is tried that and it tells me the size is 18-21mm but doesn't give similar sized options.

I have blue /black/green alien and Dragon 1-5. It's the size I between that I need, which is currently a very old red friend.

OP Max factor 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

Dragon 0 of Dragonfly 5 I think, both silver. Heavier ,stronger and bigger range or lighter and more flexible?

 Jamie Wakeham 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

The Dragonflies (Dragonflys?) have a rather lower range than other tiny cams, and this was enough to persuade me to go with alternatives.  An extra mm doesn't seem much but it's 15% of your total range and may well be the difference between grabbing the right cam or not.

I ended up going Dragons down to 0 (silver) and then switching to WC Zero cams below that.  WC Zero 0.3 (blue) fits nicely just beneath Dragon 0.

 Robert Durran 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

This is the problem with WC capitulating and just cloning the BD/DMM Cams. The proper old Friends interleaved those sizes nicely. 

 pec 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

From this (see page 30) https://www.wildcountry.com/media/pdf/c9/92/40/Wild-Country-Cam-book.pdf

a red 0.5 Technical friend's range is 17-25mm

The grey WC New Friend 0.4 is 15.8mm-26.37mm (https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing-Equipment/Rock-Trad-Climbin...)

The silver 0 DMM Dragon is 16-25mm (https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing-Equipment/Rock-Trad-Climbin...)

So either of those would do.

There is no close Dragonfly however (https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing-Equipment/Rock-Trad-Climbin...)

OP Max factor 11 Jul 2021
In reply to pec:

I'd get a yellow classic alien if they were available, 15-25mm. Failing that a 0 Dragon is the one. Thanks for the advice all. 

In reply to Max factor:

Just get a totem blue or totem yellow (not the basic), better still, get both....   Way better holding power and range than a DMM superfly,

 C Witter 11 Jul 2021
In reply to Max factor:

Seems like they're selling the yellow classic alien's on Bergzeit and the grey one on EpicTV. £50ish

I actually think the Alien Revolution cams are very good, too, even though they're frequently badmouthed. I only have one (green), but it's been great.

Post edited at 23:37
 climberchristy 12 Jul 2021
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

> The Dragonflies (Dragonflys?) 

Dragonflies. All nouns that end in a consonant then a 'y' go to 'ies' in the plural.

E.g.

bakery ... bakeries

Monastery ...monasteries etc etc

 Jamie Wakeham 12 Jul 2021
In reply to climberchristy:

But is it a proper name?  If all of Elliot's family are together, are they the Dalies?

Probably not... but I was only joking about the fact that they are regularly named as Dragonflys, including in UKC reviews

 climberchristy 12 Jul 2021
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Fair enough. I thought it was a genuine question and you were unsure of the spelling. I agree surnames ending in consonant y, such as Daly, are not pluralised to 'ies'. In this case 'Dragonfly' is a proper noun as it is a brand name but as it is so clearly using the name of the insect which is a common noun, one would assume it pluralises to 'ies'?

 Jamie Wakeham 12 Jul 2021
In reply to climberchristy:

Anyway, WC certainly have a better expansion range, and I feel much more confident about 'Zeroes'!

 climberchristy 12 Jul 2021
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Nice!

 C Witter 12 Jul 2021
In reply to climberchristy:

A workaround: Dragonfly cams.

 climberchristy 12 Jul 2021
In reply to C Witter:

Also nice!


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