UKC

Red Pencil Direct

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 Kryank 04 Aug 2021

Hi all,

Was hoping to get Red Pencil Direct (HS 4b) ticked in the next week, just wondered if anyone had been up there recently and if they had any info on the rock quality, I know there has been a lot of loose rock round the climb. And also any info on which guide book it is In. I believe I read somewhere that you can hide your gear behind a wall at the top then walk down to the bottom to do the climb so any info about general logistic stuff would be greatly appreciated, but no beta on the actual climb please.

thanks in advance

Ryan

 Michael Gordon 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Kryank:

Logistics-wise you could even set off with your gear on since it's not far to walk. A fine evening ascent if given the weather.

OP Kryank 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Thanks mate, I thought the walk in was about 30 - 45 mins (or so I had read somewhere) I’ll get the OS out and have a nosey myself as that may be a better option. 

 iainJ 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Kryank:

I did it end of last summer, so rock quality may have changed. There's a wobbly block a few meters up the first groove, but at the time it didn't feel like it would come out, slightly disconcerting though. Higher up the rock was sound, and although the crag as a whole has a vague feeling it could collapse, I don't recall much / any chossiness bar the afformentioned block. This may have changed though. 

Gear wise, you could drop your bags at the top of the descent gully, it's completely out of sight of the main paths and only just along from the top of the route. 

OP Kryank 04 Aug 2021
In reply to iainJ:

Thanks for the info mate. 

 jkarran 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Kryank:

20 years ago it gave the vague impression of being dirty and in the process of collapsing. As it's still mostly there i'd enjoy the walk, sack it off if you don't like the look of it.

Jk

Post edited at 23:02
 dominic o 05 Aug 2021
In reply to Kryank:

Hi Ryan 

We did the route about a year ago - an enjoyable adventure away from the usual honey pots. Rock quality is OK, but more in keeping with a "mountain route" than a crag like Stanage. Some of the adjacent routes have been badly affected by recent rockfall. 

There's a write up with a couple of pics and some approach beta here:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2020/05/29/climbing-along-the-pennine-way/

Enjoy!

Cheers, Dom 

OP Kryank 06 Aug 2021
In reply to dominic o:

Thanks Dom that’s great! 


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