In the quals Bassa Mawem pulled out with a torn biceps.
I wondered what would happen if Bassa had not had an injury and recalculated the ranking based on the (not entirely unreasonable) assumption that he came 1/8/8.
The new rank order gives:
Coleman (gold)
Shubert (Silver)
Narasaki (Bronze)
Lopez
Mawem M
Ondra
Duffy
Mawem B
So apart from moving Lopez from gold to 4th it doesn't change the rank order. In the quals the discussion was all about Ondra benefiting from the injury but it's clear from this who did and who was cost a medal. Not sure what I think about that yet...
However, I can be sure that the BBC coverage was terrible and the commentating was awful.
The potentially surprising part of the comp (ie the bit where expectations were most inaccurate) was the bouldering and none of the important bits (ie Ondra not climbing) were shown just random snippets like a jumping record.
I think the worst climbing analogy was something like "it's like you've driven your battery care to the service station and all the charging bays are full" - I guess this was a desperate attempt not to repeat (or possibly to update for COP26) "he's totally gassed" or "he's got no gas in the tank" again.
I guess this is probably discussed elsewhere in detail but I'm still trying for no spoilers for this afternoon...