UKC

Out of love with Anasazi VCS!

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 Jeremy Wilson 12 Sep 2021

I have been using Anasazi's ever since they came out and have bought about 15 pairs over the years.  I know what size fits me and I love them!  However, my latest pair have been incredibly painful somehow and are not 'breaking in'!  I had heard that Adidas have changed the last design and manufacturing approach.  This seems a fabulous way of destroying a brilliant brand.  I can't believe they could be so stupid though?!  Any one with experience or knowledge of this - or have my feet changed shape and size in the last couple of months?  

1
 spragglerocks 13 Sep 2021
In reply to Jeremy Wilson:

These are the replacement: https://www.outside.co.uk/unparallel-up-rise-vcs-climbing-shoe.html?gclid=C...

Basically old 5.10 = unparallel (the US guys bought the lasts and rights to make the existing products).

New Anasazi - feel like clogs on your feet, don't break in, different sizes to original and basically total pile of p**.

 afx22 13 Sep 2021
In reply to Jeremy Wilson:

You’re out of date.  They don’t make the Anasazi anymore.  Five Ten’s new equivalent is the Niad range.

There have been lots of threads on here for many years highlighting a perceived drop in quality of Five Ten in general.

 TobyA 13 Sep 2021
In reply to afx22:

> There have been lots of threads on here for many years highlighting a perceived drop in quality of Five Ten in general.

But also those who remember plenty of problems with them at times well over a decade ago, before they had been bought by Adidas. Rebecca pointed out in her review that the new NIAD shoe, the replacement to the Anasazi, is a different fit but that means some people who it didn't fit before (I have tried Anasazis on every so often since the mid-90s, but they never fitted my feet well so I never bought any despite thinking they were the coolest shoes to get!) may well now fit the new model. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/five_ten_niad_vcs_lv-13...

I was told the factory that made 5.10s (when Adidas bought the company) lost the contract at some point after that because they were unwilling to make changes to satisfy Adidas's QC standards. I believe that it is the factory that now makes Unparallel.

OP Jeremy Wilson 16 Sep 2021
In reply to spragglerocks:

Brilliant - thanks for this advice - will get some UPs ordered!

 dsh 06 Oct 2021
In reply to spragglerocks:

Would these be the replacement for the Orange Velcro Anasazi?

 Alkis 06 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Considering the quality that has been coming out of that factory since it does make one wonder whether they were unwilling to comply with QC, or unwilling to comply with QC at the requested price level.

 CantClimbTom 07 Oct 2021
In reply to Jeremy Wilson:

"We had to modify the product because the last factory refused to meet our high QC standards"

Sounds more like a statement by a marketing team rather than a genuine explanation?

 PaulTanton 07 Oct 2021
In reply to spragglerocks:

ive tried the Unparalleled uprise. Not a patch on my old velcros. Not tried the Pro version. Uprise are uncomfortable, they dig into my middle toe.

I was gonna hold my nose and buy a pair of Adidas shoes. Maybe not now. 

1
 Carless 07 Oct 2021
In reply to Jeremy Wilson:

I used to love Anasazis but some years ago tried Tenaya and have been happy with them for ages as I could swear they used my feet for the lasts - maybe worth trying

 ebdon 07 Oct 2021
In reply to PaulTanton:

I actually find the uprise to be tonnes better than the old Anasazi (witch I loved) a better fit and a much improved heel (which I always thought was the one crap thing about anasazi's.

I've also had several pairs of other 5.10 shoes completely fall to bits recently with shite build quility which has rather put me off them,  but these were purchased 2 years ago pre the full Adidas takeover so perhaps they have sorted out their QC now.

Post edited at 15:42
 spragglerocks 08 Oct 2021
In reply to dsh:

Yes, as close as you're going to get now. Definitely worth a try. I have a pair bought to replace my orange velcros and have also tried the newer Adidas offerings, much prefer the unparallels. I mainly climb in their lace ups these days though - kind of a.verde replacement.


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