UKC

Just two weeks after Neil Gresham claimed the first ascent of a long-term project on Pavey Ark (UKC News), Steve McClure has repeated Lexicon E11 7a, taking a 70ft whipper in the process during an earlier attempt.

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Wow! Steve's status as climbing legend has just been even further reinforced. What an amazing effort to take that fall and go back to despatch the route. Hats off to both him and Neil on such a stunning route.

Gresham: "Is trad climbing alive in Britain? …err, yes, and thankfully, so is Steve McClure. 😳😳"

Awesome effort

Another great bit of writing by Steve.

Is there a video of the fall?

Well done Mr McClure! Does anyone know how the other 'Big Mac' is doing on it? Has he had to return to his northern kingdom empty handed, or is his border reiving of Cumbrian routes ongoing?

Excellent read, well done! Once that quality of description takes you to the rock, like Steve, you're strapped in for the ride. Best article I've read on here for a while..

When is Steve going to find a route hard enough that he has to tie his shoelaces..?!

Looks like novel rope work, with one rope for the bottom half which is then ditched once the second rope is into the final runners that will hopefully protect the runout above.

In Neil's instagram he says Alasdair Lee is making a film and suggests this will be in it.

Awesome effort and achievement from both Neil and Steve.

But the real question is; where did Steve get his Blancos from? They look brand new. Has he got a secret stash or perhaps are Five Ten still supplying him?

SD.

No such route yet exists 😆

Andy F

Gripping read!

Good question!! No supply from 5.10 that's for sure. I do have a 'stash' though that is only a few pairs. Actually I've been using the new pinks a fair bit, and the Crawe are great for bouldering. I was wearing the pinks on Lexicon when I was playing on it. However, for the lead, I wanted something I knew very well on my feet! No surprises (ironically I slipped when I fell off, though that was due to bad placement)

Yeah I made that up on the fly really and it seemed to make sense as the bottom wall naturally climbs across from right to left and then back again. The route would also go even better on 2 ropes, as the kit in the break is spread along it, but I'd decided that the impact force on me with 2 halves would be too much in a big lob (as belayer has to be tied down).

Impressive stuff, but now we know its not a death fall how can it be E10 or above?

Perception of probabilities. Just because you got away with something once doesn't mean it's safe. Alex Honnold's (successful) free solo of Freerider doesn't change the fact it's a dangerous thing to do. Patrick Edlinger died falling down the stairs in his house, that doesn't mean it's E11

I agree it's impressive, but at the same time I think it's just nuts taking 70ft falls. From the accounts unexpected things were happening with the gear, krabs breaking and getting cross loaded, so I would suggest because it wasn't a death fall this time doesn't give much comfort to potential future ascentionists. 

Repeat it then suggest a downgrade. That's how it works isn't it? Good luck!

How can you question the grade without climbing the route?

I feel like every single thread I read on UKC somehow, no matter how it starts, turns into a debate about grades!

Can we not just celebrate the determination, skill, effort and enjoyment these two climbers have put into the climb?!

Cracking effort and great read.

Looking at the photo of Neil, it would appear he skipped the first runner to avoid rope drag. Your setup does make a lot of sense, in that the dynamics of the top system would seem more predictable and you have the bonus of added protection at the start of the route.

Well played, on a quick hard repeat.

I've still got a new pair waiting to be broken in.  I've also a pair of what used to be "blancos" but are now "dirty greyos" that I use sparingly.  I don't tie the shoelaces either - there's no point, it just adds time to the process and doesn't make them any tighter.  In fact, I've got an even older and greyer pair that I took the laces out and they still feel like they're stuck to my feet with superglue.

He tied them for the successful Rainman redpoint…

Loved Steve’s description of the ascent and not just the successful one.  Everyone at every level is aware of that do or die move where sometimes technique and controlled movement is sacrificed for speed or just get the move done.