UKC

What does redpoint and headpoint mean?

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matnoo 15 Feb 2004
(Dont realy need to write anything here do I?)
OP Aly 15 Feb 2004
In reply to matnoo: I think it is as follows but will probably be corrected by some ethics know-all:

Redpoint - a worked sports climbing route (i.e. practised over and over on top-rope) which is then climbed clean, in one push, placing all quick-draws. Pre-placing the QDs is technically called a pinkpoint but there is little distinction between red and pink points nowadays (i.e. redpoints used pre-placed QDs)

Headpoint - a worked route (top-rope practise) that is eventually climbed in traditional style or soloed. Such routes are normally hard and have little/no adequate gear. The term is basically a trad style redpoint but it is deemed unethical to pre-place the trad gear (normally).

Ductape 16 Feb 2004
In reply to matnoo: Redpoint can also refer to a pre-practiced trad route which is led from the ground to the top without falls or rests, placing all gear on lead - just as for sport. Headpointing is redpointing a route where the psychological aspects are a major difficulty - high-E grit being a classic example.

I still use the "pinkpoint" concept, but fewer people seem to do so now - even see people claiming gear-protected routes as redpoints when the gear has been pre-placed. They climb their mountains, I climb mine.
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