UKC

On the backside of Umpire Wall is a short but fun climb up and across the hanging block below a roof. Does anyone know if it has been climbed before? I couldn’t find any record of it.

It starts with a layback up the hanging block and then you move left using the crack below the roof and a large face hold.

I climbed it on gear first and then soloed it. A solo makes most sense considering the venue, though it takes very good gear.

I would suggest VS or maybe an easy HVS as it is harder than Suspension Flake at hound tor and due to the rock below a fall would not be recommended.

There could be a direct finish up and over the lip but it looks extremely hard and rather dangerous.

Has anyone climbed this previously?

Certainly done before but possibly either not-recorded, not thought worth recording or rejected as insignificant by a previous Dartmoor author. During the early development of Dartmoor climbing, only the longer routes at crags like Haytor, Dewerstone etc were recorded fully. Other places are mentioned in passing: ‘The rocks to the left of the rough road leading to Bell Tor provide a good crack in a steep slab and several amusing chimneys and steep corners’. This is from Lawder’s 57 guide describing Bonehill. 
 

Write it up as a first recorded ascent and it may enter the fossil record if the Dartmoor guide is updated. 

Most importantly, enjoy your climbing  

James

Thanks, I appreciate the reply.

I thought it unlikely it had gone completely unnoticed, but I was surprised it hadn’t been recorded considering there isn’t that much rock available and it’s an enjoyable climb!

Umpire Wall itself is excellent,  but a very bold solo with an awful possible landing.