UKC

Group Climbing Nr. Brecons

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 Locryn 22 Oct 2021

Recently started an 'Expedition Club' and this terms focus is on Rock Climbing, next term Orienteering and Hill / Mountain Skills, following term planning and taking part in a multi-day expedition with climbing / orienteering etc. We're able to get some accom for our students at a good price in the Brecons; my Brecon knowledge for climbing is limited - what're the climbs like? I know there is the escarpment around Crickhowell (?) but is it suitable for groups?

Suggestions and tips please! Or whether we look at Wye, Pembroke or just go Snowdonia!

Ta!

8
 Ben Callard 22 Oct 2021
In reply to Locryn:

I take it you mean the Beacons? if so, Morlais Quarry is popular with groups. 

I think Llangattock (near Crickhowell) gets used a bit, but the tops are horrible. 

 PaulJepson 22 Oct 2021
In reply to Locryn:

Are you after sport or trad?

Where abouts in the Beacons are you off? It's a massive area and there is loads of climbing around it.

Locally, a majority of the well-travelled climbing will be sport. There are numerous good sandstone quarries, the best of which are around Merthyr ( Navigation Quarry for slabby,  The Gap for steeper stuff,  Sirhowy is good but will likely be a bit damp this time of year, Tirpentwys is great in the low 6s and a nice place but is quite small so expect crowds if you're going on a weekend). For sandstone trad there are a few places like  Penallta but they can be a bit overgrown and you should set expectations low. 

Further east there is the Llangattock Escarpment near Abergavenny. That's limestone and has a mix of bolted sport and trad. Quite short routes and some iffy rock.  Gilwern gets the most traffic. 

3
 Dai Horribly 23 Oct 2021
In reply to Locryn:

There really is no decent climbing around the Beacons. If you're with a group Gower is only a short distance away or even somewhere like Box Bay at Porthcawl. 

4
 MJL 23 Oct 2021
In reply to Locryn:

Twynau Gwynion Quarries Is good for a group. We used to go there with the scouts and the top has plenty of iron posts for anchors so setting up top ropes and absails was simple. Also zero polish compared to the nearby Morlais quarries. It is high on the hillside so can be affected by low cloud etc.

 gethin_allen 24 Oct 2021
In reply to Locryn:

First thing first, I think you'll find there's only one Brecon and the area nearby is the Brecon Beacons. 

You won't find much proper climbing in the national park, it's mostly very nice hill walking. To the south in the valleys and around the heads of the valleys there are many, mostly bolted, quarries and a few natural outcrops with some pretty tidy climbing although some of it is slightly abused by the locals with graffiti, smashed glass and fly tipping in places.

Many of these places could be good for groups of a sensible size but obviously, don't take the piss with hogging routes if the place is busy and stick your own gear in the lower-offs if you plan to top rope stuff so as to minimise wear on them and not piss off the people who've invested a lot in bolting them.

There's a south wales climbing wiki to be found if you google and there's a new guide out as of quite recently. Up And Under in Cardiff probably has it and it's an excellent shop to boot.


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