UKC

So its been a lifetime goal that, at some point in my climbing career id like to get on a first assent trip of some kind.

Anyone have any advise or ideas about how achievable this is? is there any additional skills that are required that you don't get on regular trip to climb known peaks?

Have you done one? how was it? was it as expected? did you achieve your goals?

How about a 2nd ascent but with better ethics and style?  Zero waste, zero environmental impact and not using plastic based materials?  Perhaps go further and climb it Kabadi style, i.e. on one breath?

Have fun

Thanks for the reply, but I fear this comment is in danger of asking questions into ethics and other factors surrounding pioneering new routes or peaks and that is not what I am asking.

If you want to ask the question about the ethics of new unexplored peaks in the day of Net Zero emissions targets then feel free to start another topic.

I'm guessing the BMC would be a good place to start. Also what skills would you bring to the team? If you have a background in medicine, for example, that may be more useful than cranking V9 on sight. Or if you have an employer with deep pockets, who could sponsor, then that might stand you in good stead.

You could, of course, lead some minor expedition(s) first; doesn't have to be an unclimbed peak. That way, you'd have a lot more knowledge and experience to bring to the table.

Google adventure companies that offer first ascent peaks in Kyrgyzstan 

You can come with me round the North side of Beinn Bhan (near Achnacarry) if you like.  I'm just waiting for some cold snowy weather, a bit of freeze/thaw and then a decent sustained freeze.  Can't guarantee quality though.

This is what I immediately thought as well.

Expeditions, even the sort of amateurish ones your local climbing club would organise, tend to have set roles that need filling (e.g. rope-gun, first aider, leader, logistics planner, etc.). If you don't excel in any of those avenues then you might need to organise it all yourself. 

If you think you could be useful to an expedition, then your best bet is probably to join a large and active mountaineering club and ask the question. 

Something like this maybe?

https://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/climb/exp/i/nubra+summits.html

Get in touch with them if you have questions. I'm not affiliated with them in any way but been on a Himalayan trip and a course in Scotland with them about 14 years ago. Don't know if this meets your needs or you mean joining or leading an independent expedition.

How to get on a first assent trip

Pedantry alert. Don't you just have to be the first person to say "yes" when asked?

Martin

As assent would thus be given. 👍

Research an unclimbed route, pack your rucksack, go climb it. Wasn't aware there was any other way.    

I know someone who did this with the late Martin Moran and they really enjoyed the experience.  I'm sure other guide company's will run something similar.  A bit long winded, but phoning round a few may throw up something ?

I've been on several trips doing first accents in Bolivia, Peru and Kyrgyzstan. Sometimes it was the most enriching climbing experience i could ever imagine, othertimes it left me feeling rather empty and a pointless exercise. Allthough it sounds cliched now I look back on those trips it was the company and the adventures we had that made them. The first ascents were almost just a means to and end (and ment we could get BMC/MEF funding). If I were to do it all again I'd probably just go somewhere remote with good routes and reliable conditions.

All my trips were independent and involved lots of research in various journals.

Maybe I’ve listened to too many podcasts or just had 1 too many beers this evening but I’m curious what the motivation behind “joining” a (specifically) FA trip/expedition is?

I’ll preface this with the disclaimer that I’ve no FAs or “firsts” to my name whatsoever and I mean no hard words here. I’m genuinely curious….. saying that I’d think that any sense of achievement of an FA in these circumstances would be negated by being simply a joining (or tagging along) member. It strikes me as a bit of an oxymoron. 

 If the motivation is to be pioneering…. Well, you won’t really have done that. Others will have done all the planning, leg work and are really the pioneers. Your individual achievement would really have been no greater than a support role on an established route.

if it’s for the kudos… again those who dreamt up, set up, planned and lead the expedition are the ones who deserve the kudos.

Sure there’s achievement there but no more than just joining a group on Denali or Broad Peak or Everest.

 To attempt to answer the question though, I’d say; surround yourself with people doing these things. Prove yourself around these people. You’ll likely get invited along at some point. If you visit the local bouldering wall once a week, you’ll probably not get the opportunities but if you ingrain yourself in climbing, climbing regularly in hotspots, building your skills, talking to people and getting involved with the community you’ll stand a much better chance.

 Alternatively, spend a load of time pouring over Google Earth. Find a peak or a line that excites you. Do some research. Has it been climbed? No? Put a plan in place. Go and climb it. 

Confused why you felt the need to explain his joke....

So no rope, boots, technical clothing, helmets

Who knows what motivates other people to climb anything ? All I can say is that my mate found his guided first ascent trip thoroughly rewarding.

Yes, but you should also have carefully planned the best line of dissent in advance. 

I mean, that was the question I was asking.

 I don’t doubt your mate did find his guided FA trip rewarding. How much of that reward though comes from the fact that the hill s/he was guided up had never been climbed before? Would the experience have been less rewarding if s/he was dragged up a trade route instead?

(again, genuinely curious)

Well this wasn't his first guided trip, so he's done a couple of 'trade routes', but its the one he talked about the most.  I think the fact that it was a first ascent meant that everyone- guides included  - didn't quite know what to expect.

I think another factor was he felt comfortable with the guiding company.

Well, then the obvious end point in this exercise is to think about it and then not go at all. Zero impact and maximum ethics. Think of the bragging rights that'll gain you!

Maybe, but it's a new take on bragging: "I didn't go to Everest. I went to Ibiza. Haven't I done well! Read my blog!"

Na, you ruined it when you went to Ibiza.

it's a question for the Speaker

Why don’t you read some books by the likes of Mick Fowler, people who have actually done this? You might be able to pick up some ideas. Or have a read through some old Alpine Journals to see what people are doing.

Have you ever been to a remote or awkward to reach mountain area in a developing country? If not, then try organising a trip to one. It was perfectly possible before the Internet so should be relatively straightforward now.

Depends on what type of experience you are after. As others have said there are some guide companies offering this, often in Kyrgystan. I did this with ISM some years ago, a group of about 7 with Pat Littlejohn and Adrian Nelhams as guides as well as a local Kyrgyz guide. As advertised , it was a great experience of Bishkek as well as the country, travelling in big Russian army trucks for about three days to a base in the Tien Shan range. There was a cook, so it was quite civilised, although three of us did camp up a valley for a few days for access. At the time, there were no maps. But I did five first ascents each around 4900m and about AD. As well as a multi pitch climb on a nearby crag.  So, not going to get written up as any daring first ascent, but was a very enjoyable trip and obviously an easy way to achieve your ambition. 
 

I went to Kirgizstan with ISM (Pat Littlejohn) and we climbed a few unclimbed peaks, or at least first recorded ascents.  Very good fun, if you don't mind being guided - middle of nowhere, dodgy soviet trucks, bribing drunk soldiers at checkpoints with crates of vodka, vodka toasts at breakfast, vodka in sketchy night clubs, hangovers.  The main skills seem to be drink tolerance and not falling over your feet when out on the hill.