UKC

I'm planning a trip to Rocher de Saint-Julien in the summer, does anyone know where I can get a definitive guide for the area. I have the Bill Birkett French Rock but that is not that helpful, I'm looking for a more in depth and up to date. 

In reply to PaulHarris:

Hi Paul,

"Escalade En Drome Provencale" published in 2011 seems to be fairly comprehensive for Rocher de Saint-Julien.

I haven't got a copy of the RockFax Haute Provence guide to that area to hand so can't compare with that.

Most of the routes in the guide are on the south side, though there are some on the north side as well. I have climbed on the south side in winter and it was pleasantly warm. In summer it would be a furnace.

UKC user Jon is based in that area and would be the best source of up to date info.

Have fun.

SD.

In reply to Climber_Bill:

Thanks for that. I plan to climb early morning and late afternoon. I was last there during the summer in the 80s, so aware how hot it gets. 

In reply to PaulHarris:

You're welcome.

Fair enough. I didn't want you to think I was not giving the full UKC info service

In reply to PaulHarris:

Lovely area with lots of other great crags including some shade options for the hot weather.

It is covered in the Rockfax Haute Provence guide (2009) which probably contains most of what you would consider climbing. Also worth considering is Rockfax Digital which you could subscribe to for a month for a fiver to cover your trip.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks for that Alan. Hadn't thought of the digital option, brill 

In reply to PaulHarris:

The local french guide gives time of day when different sectors of each crag go into/out of the sun. It also includes lots of other interesting bits of info. There's lots of other choices for morning/evening climbing apart from St Julian

In reply to PaulHarris:

I bought the guide mentioned below in the local climbing shop in Buis

In reply to PaulHarris:

I forgot to say that I got mine from the tourist office

In reply to DDDD:

Thanks for that I'll get onto the local tourist office 

In reply to Simon King:

Undecided whether to get it from the local tourist office or wait till I get out there. Thank for the information though 

In reply to PaulHarris:

It’ll be hot as hell in summer!

If you’re into it the VF’s are magnificent.

In reply to Darron:

As I said earlier I known just how hot it can get. Not done any VFs may have a look. Are they graded at all 

In reply to PaulHarris:

As for the heat, I think most Brits that started climbing out here in the 80s climbed in the middle of the summer, in the sun. We were totally clueless and did what we did in the UK! Also summers now are hotter - last year was a slight exception as it seemed to be low to mid 30s most of the time with only a couple of days at 39 - 40°. The previous year was mid to upper 30s with quite a few 40° days.

Climbing on St Julien might just be OK early morning but it holds the sun till quite late in the evening and the rock just radiates heat long after dark!

Have a look here for the VFs https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/saint_julien-8845/  The easy one faces SE but the three harder ones are on the north face. I'm not sure if the climbing routes on the north face are in fact still there. My guess is that they might have de equipped due to the VFs.

In reply to jon:

Brilliant thanks for that Jon. With what you have said about the summers getting hotter I may reschedule. What time of year is best in your opinion. 

In reply to PaulHarris:

Spring and autumn are ideal. That said, this winter has been fantastic for climbing on S faces with weeks of cloudless blue sky. Not always like that, of course. I always find summer harder to deal with as there aren't that many North facing crags (well, not at reasonable grades). We generallya manage to climb but it's restricted to E faces in the evening or W faces in the morning. Or, of course you can always escape to the southern alpine areas like the Ecrins in 2 - 3 hours.

In reply to jon:

Thanks Jon much appreciated 

In reply to PaulHarris: The VF’s on the north face are excellent fun and a little spicy in places, it’s possible to link the whole lot in around 2-3 hours. Last year I didn’t see any bolted routes on that face. I’ve climbed on the south face in summer; never again! St. Leger is a better bet or the beautiful Dentelles offer shade and amenable grades when it’s hot or there’s steady climbing straight out of the river on the opposite side of Buis. Have a great trip whatever you decide.

In reply to mark catcher:

Thanks Mark, after Jon's remarks on how hot the summers are getting I'll probably leave it till September 'ish.

In reply to PaulHarris:I’ve got an original Saint Lesley de ventoux guide and an original Boume Rousse guide if you want one.

email me at sportsclimbs@btinternet if interested