UKC

Easy north (?) ridge from a hut - Austria or Germany

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 mcawle 13 Feb 2022

I saw a route referenced on UKC ages ago, and thought I made a note of it but I now can’t find it.

I’m pretty sure it was a north ridge, although could be wrong about that, multi pitch rock route at a relatively low altitude (sub 3000m), which could be accessed from behind a hut and done in a day, either in Germany or Austria.

Any input of routes fitting that vague description?

Cheers,

Michael

 spenser 13 Feb 2022
In reply to mcawle:

This fits the description, I did it with a good friend a couple of years ago and loved it:

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/nordgrat-zwoelferkogel/

 spenser 13 Feb 2022
In reply to Moacs:

The Piz Badile is neither in Germany or Austria which somewhat rules it out of OP's post...

 cragtyke 13 Feb 2022
In reply to spenser:

I was looking at doing this in June , but from the comments it looks as if they are building a dam in the Valley below the descent which is causing access problems.

Also looking to do https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/maningkogel-acherkogel-nordostg... which is nearby, but a 10 hour day from the road/Dortmunder Hut, or the Bielefelder Hut above Oetz has a slightly shorter approach I think.

 Moacs 14 Feb 2022
In reply to spenser:

Dang!  You're right.

Probably better than anything in Germany or Austria though...

Perhaps something in the Wilder kaiser

 AlanLittle 14 Feb 2022
In reply to mcawle:

How easy is "easy"? The Fußsteinkante (V-) (V-) is a classic north ridge with a small glacier crossing to get to the start, normally done in a day from the Geraer Hut. 

I've heard the bergschrund has become problematic in recent years though.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/fussstein-nordkante/

Post edited at 10:03
 AlanLittle 14 Feb 2022
In reply to Moacs:

The classic easy(-ish) north ridges in Kaiser would be the Fleischbank Nordgrat (III) or the Predigstuhl Nordgrat (IV), both easily done in a day either from the Stripsenjoch hut or the valley.

OP mcawle 14 Feb 2022
In reply to Moacs:

Haha! I do know the Piz Badile. It's on the list but a bit of a stretch goal at this stage...

OP mcawle 14 Feb 2022
In reply to mcawle:

Thanks all for the replies so far. Some great looking suggestions, I don't think any of them quite fit the memory. I have in my head a big face with the route heading up a broad rounded arete on climber's left of the face, and curving right to the summit.

It's a good point that I didn't define "easy" - I am thinking in the realm of UIAA III-IV.

 AlanLittle 14 Feb 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

> The classic easy(-ish) north ridges in Kaiser would be the Fleischbank Nordgrat (III) or the Predigstuhl Nordgrat (IV), both easily done in a day either from the Stripsenjoch hut or the valley.

... by which I didn't mean "both in the same day". That would certainly be feasible but it would require a fast & fit team, and probably not on a sunny weekend in summer when there are always queues on the Kaisergebirge classics.

 tjekel 13 Mar 2022
In reply to mcawle:

could also be this one: Roggalspitze Nordkante. 

 Heike 13 Mar 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

The climbing on the Fußsteinkante is nice once you get to it, but the approach via the receding glacier and the descent is not nice at all. The worst was the getting over the Bergschrund onto the rock and because it had all receded, the first 30 metres of rock was just a jumble of horribly loose blocks and rubble. 


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