UKC

Looking at booking a trip for a few friends to Mallorca this coming October and looking for some advice on crags with easier routes (4-6a) plus any ideas on best places to stay. 

Main Wall of  La Creveta - longish slabs of low grades.

G

Cala Magrainer, Felanitx and Sa Gubia all have some easy routes, and some harder stuff too!

With regards to the best place to stay - the climbing is all spread out and you'll be driving a fair amount anyway so it's really no so important.  We've stayed in Soller a couple of times and it's a nice town and not too touristy.  Port Soller is also nice...

As for places to stay - traditionally Brits aim for the northeast Pollenca which is certainly a nice area to stay with lots of holiday accommodation. I find it a little far to drive every day since only Creveta is of much interest in that area for accessible routes.

Some people get places on the east coast. Good for deep water soloing and the crags of Magraner, Tiujana and Torre d’en Beu (all good) but a long way on small roads to everywhere else.

Worth considering is excellent accommodation in the central towns of Binissalem, Santa Maria, Alaro or Inca - less touristy and, most importantly, next to the main motorway which cuts down your drive time to climbing significantly every day and you can get pretty much anywhere.

I would avoid Palma and anything in the southwest around Magaluf. Also avoid places north of the mountains like Soller and Valldemossa since you have to pay the tunnel toll twice a day for any crag south of the mountain (which is most of them).

Alan

I don’t think there’s a toll on the tunnel any more since it was paid for. 

Yeah, it’s free now.

Puig de San Marti

This might suit to get you going.

Pollenca is a lovely place to stay, the old town is beautiful  and the Boquer valley is 10 minutes walk from the centre of the port. Caval Bernat ridge is also walking distance, fits the bill for easy climbing, is a full day out and would be a stone cold three star classic if it was in the U.K. 

On the down side, Pollenca is very expensive, easily a third more expensive to eat out than Palma but only 30 or 40 minutes drive from loads of well developed crags.

Cala Magrainer and Sa Gubia

Another great day's scrambling is Torrent des Pareis. High quality scrambling through a magnificent gorge. It can be done up and down again in a day, which I have done more than once, and the difficulty will vary depending on the level of water. If it's low you will barely get your feet wet, if it's high you may have to swim a few sections.

Treat it with caution and listen to the weather forecast before attempting it. Avoid if there is any threat of thunderstorms which can lead to flash flooding which have led to drownings in the past as there is no easy exit.

Plus 1 also for the magnificent Caval Bernat ridge.