UKC

Should I give the circuit board a rest and work on Beastmaker static finger training instead, or could that also exacerbate it?

In reply to kevin stephens:

Defo try homeopathy, it will probably grow a new elbow 

In reply to kevin stephens:

You've one elbow of each kind, and one lifetime to feel regret in while you tell yourself you should have rested more.

I wish I could have new elbows.

In reply to kevin stephens:

I recently had physio for inner elbow pain. I was told rests are bad for tendons and they need to be worked/strengthened to a degree. A rule of thumb is if it feels fine 1/2hours after training then you are probably doing long term  good. If it hurts for a day or two after then you should probably stop and rest it. Dave Mac said something similar on his youtube I think. 

I am not a physio and this may not work for you!

In reply to Timmd: Yes that’s self evident. But the question is: does finger boarding risk exacerbating early signs of elbow soreness brought on by a successful campaign of several weeks regular circuit board training? I suspect that the soreness has been particularly brought on by eccentric/extension of elbows in the down-moves

In reply to kevin stephens:

I guess it is, I'm thinking nobody on here can tell you that, without knowing the specific nature of the elbow pain.

In reply to kevin stephens:

In my very limited experience of golfers elbow, I think it was brought on by overuse on the fingerboard in lockdown 1, when I was trying to train strength and stamina on it. Only doing max hangs on the board has given no pain. I would've thought that if your arms are straight, repeaters would be okay too. 

I have also done some physio, to help them.

In reply to kevin stephens:

With similar caveats that I'm not a physio, your condition may well be different etc. but my experience and understanding fits with rausmf's

Only really started training for climbing in lockdown 1. Developed inner elbow pain, was pretty sure it was caused by exercises where the elbow was moving, so cutting out pull ups and press ups seemed obvious. Did a bit of research, probably a bit of confirmation bias but I liked the idea that optimum loading was more effective than rest so continued with the hang boarding (max hangs at the time) although easied off the intensity a little to start. Both my elbow and max hang weight improved. 

In reply to RobAJones: Thanks Rob that’s encouraging. I’ve never had the attention span for fingerboarding but this could be the incentive to start some max hangs, maybe once a week at first. I seem to have plateaued on the circuit board so a good time for a change 

In reply to kevin stephens:

At least with max hangs 6 ten second hangs with 2 minutes rest doesn't take long. Just remember to warm up properly first. I actually think my form when hanging was initially poor, but has improved significantly 

That's what I did to start. 

Good luck. 

In reply to RobAJones: Thanks