UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_779-7444...

Hi All,

Housekeeping alert... if anyone else fancies a stint as fitclub stats master they are welcome to take over.  I think I've done 4 months now but am happy to carry on for a bit longer if there are no takers.

Ross Barker – wise to be careful with the fingers pre-font trip.  What problems are on the target list?

Ally Smith – Thanks for doing the stats last week.  That’s a big training week this week! Hope you get out in today’s sunshine.

Alan Little – good news on the new wall opening.  Hopefully that will reinvigorate the psyche.

The sheep – glad everyone is on the mend, doesn’t sound like Mrs. Sheep has had a fun time of it.  Consistent as always.  Effort on the kiddies alpine start!

Tom Green – I’m a bit confused by the grading system at Potters Quarry.  Are the English tech grades assuming that the problems are toproped?  I couldn’t work out why they wouldn’t just give them a trade grade or a boulder grade?

Derek Furze – good work on the max hangs, I think most people usually go for 6-8 max hang so might be worth increasing your 5 a little?

Liam P – Great looking week in Norway last week.  Getting back into the training routine must have been a bit of a come down this week.

AJM – my old landlord used to say, ‘if you never did anything when you were injured you’d never get anything done!’ Looks like you’ve found a way to get 3 decent wall sessions in without aggravating the body too much.

Biscuit – why reduce the rest rather than up the difficulty?  Does that fit better with your goals?

Randy – sounds like you are all set up and ready to go with the max hangs.  Did you get your two planned sessions in?

SidH – have you started scanning the font guide for potential targets yet? Sometimes I have unexplained weak days on the finger board too. 

Steve Claw – loving adventure week last week.  I think Ally has got us all psyched for max hangs after promises of enormous gains! Good work on the boulder comp.

SteveJC94 – great work on North East Buttress.  How was The Man Trap?  Doesn’t sound like it gave you too many issues.

Ger_the_gog – are you doing any climbing at all at the moment or just the walking?  Time would probably be better spent getting your climbing movement dialled back in rather than hitting the fingerboard at this stage.  Others may disagree with me there though.

JCK - welcome to fitclub.  Some low intensity volume work to prepare your body for training doesn’t sound like a bad idea to start with, good luck. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks again SSB.  Yes, I could up the sets to six or eight - it is really just work limiting the available time that is the challenge.  I'm also being careful with my left elbow as I have developed bursitis this week - seemed to come from nowhere.  Anyway, it is painless and I am doing some rehab.

Off climbing in an hour just to get out in the sunshine.  

No exercise this week at all, but a busy last weekend then four days on the road left no space at all.  Things are now easier and I am only away one night a week now to cover my practices in the Midlands.  I'm also working with one in Sheffield on Mondays, but can get there and back on the day (possibly with a evening session at Burbage or Stanage on the way home).

Anyway, with the work pressure easing I can now see that I will have space to get out, so I've spent some money an a couple of new guidebooks to get some inspiration for new adventures moving.

Sorry, nothing to report - didn't even get a run done!  Not sure about picking up the baton with work meaning that I am hardly at the table in terms of training stats, but I think your hinting that it might be worth taking on three months at a time on a rolling basis?  Could you do to the end of March (assuming no other takers), then I will happily do three months - that way four of us could cover the year.  Just a thought.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for the stats SSB. I did a bunch a max hang sessions this week, still feeling a little bit rusty, but i am sure it will come back fast.

Recap of last week

Mon: Rest

Tues: Fingerboard max hangs 4x 10s with 3-4 min rest:

• 20mm egde:  69,1 % of BW average with right hand, 62,8% of BW with left hand
• Pinch Block with 16 kg
• Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 88%-93% of BW, 4 sets of 10-15s at different angles (170° -45°)

Wed: L-Sit (floor) 2x15-20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x8-10 pike push-ups,  2x8-10 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges, 2 pistol squats on each side, 30 normal pushups, 45s V-Sit-Ups

Thurs: Fingerboard max hangs 4x 10s with 3-4 min rest:

• 20mm egde:  68,9 % of BW average with right hand, 66,0% of BW with left hand
• Pinch Block with 17kg for the right hand, 16kg for the left
• Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 88%-93% of BW, 4 sets of 10-15s at different angles (170° -45°)

Fri: L-Sit (floor) 2x15-20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x10 pike push-ups,  2x8-10 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges, 3 pistol squats on each side, 30 normal pushups, 45s V-Sit-Ups

Sat: Fingerboard max hangs 4x 10s with 3-4 min rest:

• 20mm egde:  68,2 % of BW average with right hand, 67,4% of BW with left hand
• Pinch Block with 17kg for the right hand, 16kg for the left
• Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 88%-93% of BW, 4 sets of 10-15s at different angles (170° -45°)

Sun: L-Sit (floor) 2x20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x12 pike push-ups,  2x8-10 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges,42 pistol squats on each side, 30 normal pushups, 60s V-Sit-Ups

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB. Re: Font - not really. In some previous years I've had big ticklists built up but now with two kids it'll have to be a lot more laid back and I'm prepared for the possibility I might actually only get to climb on a couple of days. I'll just plan to try whatever 7A/+s others are keen to do or be near on the days I'm climbing.

Goals:

- Maintain my physio rehab on finger/shoulder every week and aim to stay uninjured

- Subject to above, maintain a consistent pattern of 2 fingerboard sessions per week until at least the end of March (starting with 3/6/9 protocol but I plan to move to one arm max hangs at some point)

- Go climbing once a week, have fun, try hard and maintain movement skills

- 3 Font 7s in Font at Easter, assuming we go

- 2 Font 7Bs across the year

These goals feel fairly modest but let's see how it goes... I will plan to review them post Font.

M: shoulder/bicep rehab

T: lunchtime - 5 sets of 3/6/9 on the 23mm edge. with 25kg. Felt much stronger than last week. Conditions felt good. Shoulder/bicep rehab.

W: rest. Started feeling a bit rough in the evening - headache, tired. Having been ill for a few days, my wife tested positive for covid...

T: morning - I also tested positive for covid (ironically on the day they removed legal isolation and contact tracing). Still feeling rough. Did my shoulder/bicep rehab on the afternoon.

F: -

S: took my son climbing in the garage due to postponing his rock club mini class. He is getting a lot more confident so I reset some harder problems for him

S: shoulder/bicep rehab. Took advantage of rules having ended to take son No. 1 out on his bike. Gorgeous day. Still ill - no more headache but full of phlegm and no energy for any training or anything. Funny chemical taste which I last remember when my son had covid in 2020... Did my day 5 LFT this morning (guidance now suggests that negatives on days 5 and 6 mean it's safe to resume your life...) but the T line appeared in seconds, just as bright as it did on Thursday. Can't see it turning negative any time soon. Damn.

So yer, the week hasn't really gone to plan. Tuesday's session was good. On the positive side the kids seem basically fine.

Si

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Mon. Leading routes session at the foundry: 6b+, 7a, 7b, 7b, 7b (two falls on this one, found it much harder than the other two), 7a (two falls, gassed after 7b), 6b+.

Tues. Lead session at the foundry again. 6a+, 6c, 6c+, 7b (the one I fell on yesterday), 7a (the one I fell on yesterday), 7a+, toproped a 7b+ with 2 rests, 6b+.

Wed. Pleasley Vale endurance session. Only did long problems. Highlights were Yew Monk (V8) and Yew Two (7b+). Did a handful of other link ups of the traverse into various up problems.

Thurs. Foundry session with Mrs. Swede. 4x 10mins continuous climbing. Generally up 6cs and down something easier.

Fri. Bike ride with Mrs Swede. 32km, hilly but steady pace.

Sat. Rest. Mini swedes birthday party, much entertaining of 4 year old girls, ate cake! 

Sun. Feeling grotty which is a shame as the weather looks amazing out there. Grumble grumble.

Half term over now, back to work next week. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

An hour and a half on the rocks was great.  Surprisingly warm and pleasant going up and down routes at Windgather.  Nice to get moving again.  No twinges from elbow, though obviously wasn't really pulling at any stage.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB. Sterling work as ever.

I reduce rest time as it is fitness/recovery I am aiming to improve. By the time you get to 1:1 work/rest ratio the climbing feels easier at that grade and your recovery has improved. The trick is to keep climbing at a real pace and not just speed up your climbing to get round quick.

My goals for this year are pretty much trad based with some onsight or quick redpoint sports ticks, so this helps with that. What I have really noticed on routes is when I think I'm pumped I'm able to micro shake as I move and that's enough to keep going, I can have more hard attempts in a session and can recover on a route much better in worse positions than before.

M - Squats 80kg 5x5.

12 mins continuous climbing at 6a+

T - 10 x 7a circuit (25 moves) with 1 min rest between.

Arnie overhead press - 6kgs 5x5 

W - Boulder sessions - flashed a soft V6 and generally had a crap session

T - Painting my dad's flat. Very sore shoulders and back.....

F - Routes at Kendal

6b, 6c, 7a, 7a+, 7b, 7a+, 7a, 7a. Failed on the 7b and second 7a+. That one has quite a cruxy section.

S - Rest day walk. Fairfield Horseshoe - 10 miles, 1000m ascent

S - Boulder at Kendal trying winter league problems. Wasn't expecting anything but managed to get a couple of new ones probably hard V6/7.

This week was very hard. I was a bit concerned on Wednesday. I didn't even really want to climb. I realised on Thursday that this was my last week before a de-load week. So it was expected fatigue really. I cried off the auto belay fitness session today and continuous climbing on Wednesday.

I feel like I've made a lot of fitness gains over the last few weeks and my nutrition and training has been pretty successful. But I am really fatigued now. My left wrist injury is making noises and my right elbow needs some attention. That along with loss of psyche for that style of training means it's a well timed plan to move on.

Next week is a de-load and Plywood Masters comp on Saturday. I've fallen off the nutrition waggon this week. I've been ravenous and have eaten a lot of cake this weekend. I'll use next week to get back on it. 

After that I am going to focus on changing to hard onsights and quick redpoints on vertical, fingery terrain and some foot on campus work to get pumped. This will be for a couple of weeks prior to the trip to make it a bit more specific to outdoors.

If the weather plays ball I'd like to get out on rock before we go, probably a quick hit to giggleswick or scout scar.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for compiling this week's thread and taking the time to reply to us individually, SSB. Fair play, it must take some doing.

To answer your question: no, I'm not doing any climbing at the moment. I will be bouldering soon now that my weight is coming down. I'd love to start doing easy trad routes again too but unfortunately my situation makes planning very difficult and I'd only end up pissing people off by having to pull out at the last minute. Perhaps after I get my climbing confidence back through bouldering I'll look at soloing easy routes again.

I've been having a think about my goals too. It's difficult to quantify because, in contrast to the goal-driven fitness quests of my younger years, I'm trying a completely different approach this time: with regards to my walking, I go as far and as fast as I feel on the day, and the same with my pack weight. Some days I knock-out 7.2kph circuits while other days it's 6.5kph. I find that by removing the pressure of strict goals, the nagging internal critical voice goes away and the only limiting factor is my physical ability, not self doubt. 

If I had to state some goals, they would go something like:

STG:

To keep walking as often as I can to gain fitness and lose weight.

To keep pushing my speed and pack weight as much as I can to make the most of my 2hr sessions.

To start easy bouldering again.

To enjoy the process.

MTG:

To venture back into the mountains.

To climb easy routes again.

LTG:

E1? (Slightly tongue in cheek but who knows, I'm not really looking that far ahead yet).

Cheers. 

​​​​

In reply to biscuit:

Tuesdays or Fridays I can do Giggleswick if it helps

In reply to Derek Furze:

Or Scout tbh - it's not that much further and may even be quicker

In reply to Ger_the_gog:

A great plan!  Take it steady and enjoy the process.  I like the walking fitness, but glad to see some ambitions on the rock.  Where are you based?

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. I'm in Bangor Gwynedd.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB,

Quieter week, only the one session as its half term so been away with the family for quite a bit of it.

Tues - Indoor Training - 6*10s hangs +15kg half crimp. Then boulders to V6 as the top room had been reset.

Wed - Sun in Cornwall

I'm going to label the time off training this week as a "de-load" week.

In reply to Ger_the_gog:

Ok.  Shout if you want to get something done in North Wales.  I've missed out on North Wales really over my climbing career and certainly don't mind having a day on the classics.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks mate, I appreciate that.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Evening all, cheers for the stats as always SSB. I'm toying with the idea of having a go at the stats, but I'm a real slob on a Sunday evening once I've sat down on the sofa, can't be dealing with too much typing or thought - I normally fill out my logbook a little each day to make things easy.

Nonetheless, a decent week from me. Great to touch rock again, got some good psyche back.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - AM submaximal hangs. 6x10s on 19mm at bodyweight. Felt a bit stiff and creaky but that might have just been the result of doing it early.

W - Rest.

T - Moonboard. Couple of hard bits, then moved onto the project "Avensis". Fingery! First time doing the crux move from the start, and tickled the last hold twice but probably tried it too late in the session. Uploaded it to the app regardless, I'd recommend trying it!

F - Rest.

S - Esoteric grit. Started the day off on Summit Arête (E2 6b), which is hard to warm up on given the first move is the crux! Bashed around the heather and found Kremlin Wall (E4 6b) and Solitaire (E5 6b) which both look amazing. Need to return with a group. Then moved onto Gradbach Hill to try The Green Streak (V7), but had no luck contorting my gangly limbs into the required space. I'd be amazed if anyone over 6ft has done it without resorting to either arete!

S - Quick play at Rhiw Goch Boulders while in the area. Very hard and crimpy. Was able to get my arse off the ground on Badgers in the Mist (f7C) though! 

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Rest.

T - Dugout? Want to do something, don't want to risk Covid from a gym, and the weather looks a bit rubbish.

F - Rest.

S - Long drive...

S - Bleau!

Goals:

A Mon With A Spade.

Rigpa.

Brass Monkeys.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB. Stopping completely every time there’s a grumble would make it hard to progress! That being said, I feel like I’ve done a lot of stuff but don’t necessarily have that much to show for it right now. I can point to slow progress on Bez and to a feeling that my pushing (the dips and pushups) and stretching is showing some promise, but I certainly don’t feel like I’m on fire at the minute! In it for the long game I guess - I’ve invested more time in aero base than I have for a few years, but haven’t done much that requires it yet, and as per last week I’d feel better with a few kilos less to lug about!

Not a bad week really. Start of the week I worked up a decent volume of aches, Saturday I made some small progress on Bez, today I actually felt pretty good on the dips. Bez is a tricky one. It’s cool sequences, but it is also quite sharp which means I don’t get that many goes on it. I ought to have a second project less dependent on skin to work alongside it, but shifting venue with the family in tow is a faff (and there’s nothing really at the New Cuttings that fits the bill, it’s all fingery crimps!). Thinking about what would improve my chances - obviously slightly better power to weight ratio, a bit more practice/precision on small feet under body tension, more ability to open the hips to keep close to the wall, and to easily place a foot high out right and weight and pull on it (with no handhold to easily pull weight over onto it, it’s difficult to both place and then use).

Monday - chez parents so just some fairly simple stuff. 

- Pushups, 6x15 in a variety of grips.

- Pull-ups/chin-ups on the jug on the portable fingerboard (alternating, chin ups first) 6c, 6p, 9c, 7p, 7c, 5p

Tuesday - again, more simple stuff. Every time I do simple stuff like this, and find myself aching the next day, I feel like it must be doing something and that if only I did it with a bit more regularity I might have stronger pulling and pushing muscles and go some way towards the better shoulders I feel I could do with. But then I get sidetracked and go to the wall instead, or something. However, chez parents the alternatives are fewer so it is easier to persevere:

- chinups 4x8

- Pull-ups 4x7, to reach a nice round 60 in total.

- Pushups 5x15

Wednesday - nothing much - busy work day then a night away without the children so no time - a mile or two walking

Thursday - another couple of miles walking, then back to the parents house. Some more simple stuff - 4x8 chin-ups, 4x7 pull-ups (I’ll be honest, the end of set was a bit messy the last 2 sets) - before heading home in the evening

Friday - rest. Odd tight spot in the middle of my back which seemed to come from nowhere and persist all day.

Saturday - back to Bez with the family in tow. Felt like a spring day in the sunshine. A little progress. New shoes make one move harder (slightly bulkier toe box makes standing in a little pocket less secure) but work better on the crucial foot for the crux. Best go was from the ground to reaching the vicinity of but not the actual hold on the crux intermediate. After this hold, a go-again and then a foot swap guard easier ground above. Don’t think I’ve got my aim quite nailed on for this move yet.

Sunday - chauffeuring for childrens birthday and other faff. In the late afternoon, a glorious sunny walk to and fro the park where I did 4 sets on the dip bars there, 7,8,7,8. Felt pretty solid on these, I’ve got to say. Then in the evening 3x15 pushups to up the load a little.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

STG last week: 

• 2 x boulder, 1 x routes. Done. A couple of pretty dismal sessions, but turning up & putting the hours in is what will count in the long run.
• 1 x skiing if somewhat ok conditions. Better than somewhat ok, see Sunday
• Sleep average >7½ hours, minimum 7 hours per night. 7.54 average, compared to 7.2 for the rest of February, never below 7. Good

STG: coming week same again. 2 x boulder, 1 x routes. 1 x skiing if somewhat ok conditions. Sleep average >7½ hours, minimum 7 hours per night
MTG: 1H 2022: onsight 6c+
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    
T:    Wall, Boulderwelt. Despite going late afternoon there was a team monopolising the kilter board, so did an ok-ish session on the normal boulder set instead, including some surprisingly enjoyable no-hands slab shuffling.
W:    40 minutes box step-ups
T:    Moonboard. I haven't been on a moonboard for months, so wasn't exactly epxecting to cruise to glory. The total ass-kicking I got was still a shock though.
F:    
S:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes with a friend I hadn't seen for a while, which somewhat made up for another day of dismal performance.
S:    Skiing, Hochfügen. Finally something this week goes well: big turnaround from last week, best snow of the year so far (and more holiday-graded black runs). 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for the stats SSB :-D

Week 8

M – Rest. COMPEX core only.

T – Felt good warming up, but then failed to deliver any success on the board 10 session. i.e. failed to climb anything but the 5 intro problems Shoulder ROM exercises and some brief rotational core.

W – Rest. Side and front split stretches.

T – Linked boulders an-cap; good intensity.

Set #1 Up 7A & down 6C 

Set #2 Up 7A+ & down 6C 

Set #3 Up 7A+ & down 6B+ 

Crimpd Bar Core “A” and bench press (4 sets 5 reps 60kg).

F – Rest.

S – Active rest. Pushchair walk around Buxton town centre, then short rucksack carrier walk.

S – Tremeirchion. Struggled to warm-up with wind, shade and wet holds on the easier problems. Eventually started to have some better goes on 36 Chambers. Closer than last time, with 3 goes coming off setting up for/going to the good hold at the end of the difficulties. Got home and realised how tired I was from minor lurgy and early starts for child wrangling.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Hi Folks. Thanks for the stats, SSB. I'll be honest, I'm not in a mad rush to resume statting at the moment, but if there is no one else keen I could maybe pick it up in a couple of months?

Good question about the Captain Cook grades! I think the UKC logbook has got a bit left behind by current highballing tactics. Franco's new guide uses a mixture if UK trad and Font for this sector which, given that you have a VS 5a next to a f6A of the same height, seems a bit mad on paper but actually makes sense when you're on them due to the way they climb (style and presence/absence of gear). The higher problems seem very highball (although if you were there as a big pad party they would be tamed) but would feel a bit odd as E-graded routes.

Week 8:

Got out and about a bit this week, which led to a poor training week as I seem to be taking ages to recover from (relatively low intensity) days. I'm assuming this is just a result of pushing a bit more after being quite sedentary over the last couple of months with the leg.

M: Trail run. YYFY! First run post-leg break. 6.6km, 140m vert, 6:37/km. Leg sore, but at least that kept my mind off how unfit I felt!

T: Dry tooling at Masson Lees. Led a couple of old faves The Warm-Up (D6) and Hook me up (D5+) which still feels a little gripping. Then top rope laps on those and Tenuous Link (D7) to test how much fitness I've lost!

W: Rest.

T: Hill walk. 14km, 452m vert, 2h40m. 15kg rucksack. Was using this as a bit of a benchmark for whether I'm getting back to being able to walk in/out of mountain crags. Felt ok and always good to beat Naismith!

F: Max hangs. Felt awful. Think the previous few days had taken more out of me than I thought.

S: Run-climb-run! Little run to Wainstones, soloed a couple of easy routes/problems in ferocious winds, ran back out. Only 5km total (in two halves) but felt like a good little dose of stimulation for the leg.

S: Bouldering at Slipstones. Awesome day -blue skys, warm sun, incredible friction, and first time back falling on to pads. I was a bit tentative initially, but soon felt more comfortable. Highlight was Curving Crack Arete Sit Down Start (f6A)

Week 9:

Continue focus of getting hill fit again: runs and weighted walks.

5 x Prehab.

2 x Core 

2 x Max Hangs & Pull-ups

2 x Conditioning

STG -end March:

Run my usual running loop.

Max Hangs: 90kg total.

Pull-ups: 95kg total.

Some Scottish winter routes -no longer fussy what... just anything white on tools!

2022 Arbitrary training goals:

Roll over of last year's running targets: 35km vert and 1000km.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink)

ALL of my local must-do list: 0/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 0/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 0/3, Almscliff 0/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 1/3.

At least two days from big mountain list: 0/2.

Late summer/autumn alpine trip.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Three months statting blocks is a good idea. There will probably be more volunteers if its only committing to a shortish stint. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

That's a lot of arm mileage in the first half of the week! Have I missed you saying that you're looking to get fit for something?!

In reply to Tom Green:

Yes - my thoughts are that I would quite enjoy 13 weeks, but an open-ended commitment seems a bit unreasonable for anyone.  I know Alan did a pretty long stint and SSB is well into a fairly long-haul now.  There is some mileage in consistency I suppose, but I think shorter bursts would help us all carry the load and possibly variety would be the spice of life.  

Good to see that you are well on the road to proper recovery anyway.  Hope to get out tomorrow again myself.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Cheers SSB, bit of a nil report from me. Swam Monday and Tuesday, then however got cold/flu type illness and chest infection. Not been able to summon up any energy to do anything since. ribs ache from constant coughing. Its worse than bloody Covid was

In reply to Tom Green:

No, I should have mentioned that I shut my hand in the car door last Sunday so didn't want to do max hangs on bruised fingers and it was half term so had plenty of time to climb so went for a bit of an enduro week. Was surprised to be much fitter than expected. If I'd have thought about it I'd have suggested some tooling at Masson but I assumed you'd be at work. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks SSB, a decent week from me.

Mon: Rest.

Tue: Rest.

Wed: 1 hour on a cross trainer, my leg is acting up when running at the moment so sticking to this for now. Core exercises after.

Thu: Rest.

Fri: TCA, warm-up on some easy problems and then ~45min on the endurance circuits. Up to 6b+ according to their grading. Skin gave up first, but wouldn't have had much more in me. 3x15 push-ups.

Sat: Rest.

Sun: Morning session at TCA, really enjoyed it. Again warm-up on boulder problems and about an hour of endurance circuits. Up to 6b+, could feel the Friday session in my arms.

Some general training afterwards: Slanted single-leg squats 3x10 each side, left side much weaker so need to keep doing them. Kettlebell deadlifts, 3x10 16kg. Overhead press, 20kg 2x10. Facepulls etc. with resistance band. Sling trainer core exercises.

I've got quite a busy week lined up, so I'm hoping to repeat this week's training but not sure if I'll manage it.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Cheers SSB. I’m happy to take over statting for 12 weeks if that’s the consensus? Definitely not the most knowledgable on climbing-specific training, or niche beta, but should know enough to provide useful feedback.

Yeah I’ve struggled to get back in to the groove really. Mixture of baby-wrangling and work busyness have led me to see this as enforced rest for tweaky fingers.

Back at my parents’ for a Christening this weekend so squeezed in three short sessions.

Mon

• Heel rehab: Romanian Deadlift 3x12 (30Kg), Calf Raises 3x12, Glute Bridges 3x12

Wed

• 45min swim

Thu

• Weighted Pull-ups 3x 8 (+15kg)
• Lattice Pinch Block 6x7s (+13kg)
• Lattice crimp Block 6x20s (+30kg)

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks for the stats again SSB.

The Mantrap was pretty lean so we turned it on the right with a slightly sketchy downclimb/traverse.

Last week was great despite the somewhat wild weather

M - Northeast Buttress

T - Wandered into SCNL with a view to doing either Twisting Grooves or Twisting Gully. Both had teams queuing on them. SC Gully had a spindrift waterfall coming down so we opted for a quick run up Dorsal Arete

W - Wild weather so opted for a rest day

T - Walked into Beinn an Dothaidh to do Taxus. Lots of windslab and spindrift so after an hour of trying to dig out a belay, we bailed

F - Went for a ski over on Aonach Mor. Aimed to do a gully on the west side but it was too scoured. The Back Corries looked amazing but with a "considerable" avalanche forecast for East facing slopes, we opted to just ski some inbounds powder - still a great day to finish off the trip

S - The long and boring drive home

S - A belter of a day in Manchester so went for a 40k cafe spin on the bike 

Plan for this week:

M - Rest day

T - Strength & conditioning (core exercises & antagonist muscles)

W - Boulder pyramid (still taking it easy while the pulley rupture heals) 

T - Rest day

F - Drive up to Scotland again

S - Hopefully a long ice route on the Ben

S - Tempted to have a look at the Tower Double (avalanche forecast permitting) 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Whoops, just realised I totally forgot to reply to this!

Le Toit du Cul du Chien (f7A) and Big Jim (Black 4) (f6C) are up there for sure. Would like to try La Baleine (Black 7) (f7A+) and Lady Big Claques / Le Flipper (f7A+) as well. I've got a load compiled on my wish list but nothing that I'm focused on specifically, given it's my first visit.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Great set of problems.  Take a good few pads for Big Jim (that's my profile pic). And Big Claques too I guess. Edit - I just spent 10 minutes watching back a video of when I did some of those - definitely my best ever font trip. Good times.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Time for another comeback (or is it the same stuttering comeback as last time?). I last posted in December when I was about to go to Siurana but a sudden shoulder injury put paid to that. Since then I’ve done practically nothing as house move, weather, work and a lack of climbing wall has precluded any activity but I think things are about to change. Plas y Brenin wall has opened so I now have a local wall, it’s pretty small but has a board that suits me (not to steep and lots of big holds).

T: P-y-B

T: P-y-B, fourth visit in total and slight improvements.

F: Day off but only succeeded in wrecking the front of my car and some minor DIY tasks.

S: Flew to Spain for postponed trip, first time since 2018 so should be excited but car and general world situation makes for a flat mood.

S: The climbing news ain’t good either, shocked but not surprised at how hard I had to pull on big holds that would normally be shake outs so was pleased to claw my way up La Secallona (7a) on my third attempt. Pleased with how hard I tried and I didn’t get as anxious as I might have done. I think I might have bee too embarrassed as my climbing was spectacle enough.
 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Raining here today and very muddy under foot ("dancing on mud"?) but I had a window so put in a few quick cross-country circuits: 4 miles, 22lb pack, ~58 minutes. It was hard going - losing traction on the uphill sections is never fun but I know it's doing me good.

I weighed myself "properly" afterwards. It's been 2 months and 2 days since my first "walk with purpose" on Boxing Day. Surprised the hell out of myself: I've lost 13lb (16st 7lb then, 15st 8lb now).

About time I introduced some basic bodyweight exercises several times a week. Reading other people's activities is partly responsible for this so thanks for that.

In reply to Ger_the_gog:

I should add that I'm now not far off my climbing weight 20 years ago (I'm a 6'3 large framed heavy prick). I was far from my fittest (13stone but unfortunately hadn't discovered climbing yet), but managed a few decent routes. If I can build my strength back up at this weight, or ideally a bit lighter, then I'll be chuffed to bits.

In reply to Ger_the_gog:

That’s a great effort! Sounds like the plan is working well. Inspired me to try and lose some of my weight belt that I’ve built up over the last couple of months. 

In reply to Tyler:

Aren’t we all basically just linking comebacks together? We just disguise it in more optimistic language!!

Enjoy Siurana. Don’t let the world’s bad vibes drag you down… allow yourself a week of escaping it!

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Aw you should have given me a shout… can often rearrange work to get get out midweek, especially if it’s for drytooling!  

Hope the hand is mending -doesn’t seem to have held you back much!

In reply to Tom Green:

Next time.

Yeah, hand is fine now, was just being careful.

In reply to Tom Green:

Yeah, I’m just mapping terminal decline. It’s a public service, I’m a warning of what happens if you don’t do prehab or seize the opportunity to do routes you want when you have the (half) chance!

In reply to Tyler:

We've all got routes we wished we'd tried when the time would have been perfect.  I wish I'd got on the Gervasutti Pillar and the Walker Spur the year I did loads in the Alps.  I don't think my knees would forgive me some of the descents now.  I also wish I'd tried Lord of the Flies back when I was climbing loads of trad and could hold on forever.  I also wish I'd done more Scottish Winter when I had the time to get good enough for the 1938 route but that was was always a pipe dream really.  

In reply to Derek Furze:

Only just seen this sorry Derek.

Fridays can be good, but not this Friday. It's either a rest day or an easy trad day prior to a comp on Saturday.

It'd be good to meet up

In reply to biscuit:

No worries.  Weather looks naff now anyway so I am heading off for the weekend with Julia instead!  Also nursing elbow bursitis, though it doesn’t seem troubled by climbing (yet).

In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. Yes, very happy with progress so far. The secret seems to be to just keep turning up and taking each km as it comes. Good luck with your quest - have at it!

I reversed my circuit direction this afternoon and put in a 6.2miler (10km) with 22lb. Wasn't feeling great but got it done in 1:35. Ankle feeling a bit stiff after going over on it (exposed tree root hiding in the leaves & mud) so will probably leave the pack at home if I go out again this week.

Started bodyweight exercises. Blimey, they never used to be this hard! Still, they have to be done and should come on fairly quickly once I overcome the inertia and get going. 

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The WS is the route I’d most like to have done and have mentioned it in here as an ambition  but if your knees are past it I’m going to have accept that I’m never going to do it. Mind you it’s always been the mental aspects that have held me back in the alps.

I did get around to trying this and falling off the last move still makes me sad so maybe there is something to be said for leaving stuff as you can still kid yourself that one day…