UKC

NC500 TRS-friendly crags

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 Denislejeune 27 Feb 2022

Hi all.

Planning to do the NC500 this late June with my wife and young daughter. I'll take my top-rope solo kit with me and would like suggestions on where the best crags for TRS are along the way.

Best are with an easy, non-climbing, access to the anchors, or where it's easy to set up a trad anchor and go down.

In general see cliffs are very apt, but not sure where the good ones are, and if you know of nice inland TRS-friendly crags, very thankful for the tips.

Ta

8
 Rog Wilko 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Denislejeune:

I’m unsure where NC 500 goes exactly but I’d hazard a guess that it passes  Loch Tollaidh Crags. Just a 5 or 10 min walk from the road. I can recommend Ewephoria (VS 4b) and Ewe Tree Slab (VS 4c) at VS and there’s a couple of  decent V Diffs too. Also lots of harder stuff.

 Harry Ellis 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Denislejeune:

I've done some TRS at Badrallach Crag near Dundonnell  lovely spot

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/beinn_nam_ban-13075/

 Marek 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Denislejeune:

Need more info:

1. How long have you got? A long weekend? A week? A month? Makes a big difference.

2. What grades are you interested in?

3. Are you (and your family) ok with a walk-in? How long? Bear in mind many Scottish crags take some getting to. Don't expect nice paths. Do you like midges?

1
OP Denislejeune 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Marek:

Hi,

2 weeks, grades up to 7a French (I know it's mostly trad up there, but I won't be leading), me myself I walking in, if you have an app to switch off midges I'm game. 

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OP Denislejeune 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Harry Ellis:

great, thanks. how long is the walk up there?

1
OP Denislejeune 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Rog Wilko:

cheers, nice one.

 Marek 27 Feb 2022
In reply to Denislejeune:

> Hi,

> 2 weeks, grades up to 7a French (I know it's mostly trad up there, but I won't be leading), me myself I walking in, if you have an app to switch off midges I'm game. 

In that case I would definitely visit two areas which are a bit 'off route': Rieff and Sheigra (in that order). Both are extensive sea cliff areas (some chance of avoiding the midges) with some reasonably non-tidal access and a vast range of grades. Other people may offer some more specific suggestions. I can't remember what the belays at the top are like though - they can be tricky at the top of sea cliffs.

If I had an app to switch off the midges, I'd (a) be rich and (b) be living up there.

OP Denislejeune 28 Feb 2022
In reply to Marek:

Sweet, cheers. came across the Reiff name yest, yep looks nice. Hell, I like the look of Sheigra too, thanks!

Re. midges, my plan is to infect them with my dengue. Revenge.

 Offwidth 28 Feb 2022
In reply to Denislejeune:

Reiff is the classic venue but there is tons of single pitch stuff closer to the road in the far NW (north of Ullapool).  SMC Northern Highlands North guide book is very useful (if you can get hold of a copy). Just look at the map on the UKC logbooks and click on the crag icons to see how many climbs there are up there.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/reiff_-_roinn_a_mhill-303/#maps

I'd strongly recommend a scramble up Stac Pollaidh, a lovely roadside mountain with arguably the best views in the UK at the top.

Post edited at 10:32
 Marek 28 Feb 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

> Reiff is the classic venue but there is tons of single pitch stuff closer to the road in the far NW (north of Ullapool)...

Very true. I've had great days exploring some of the more obscure bit of rock up there. On a good day. On a bad day, though, even a hundred yards of wading through midge infested heathery swamps is too much for me!

 Offwidth 28 Feb 2022
In reply to Marek:

I hate midges but the experiences I've had were easily worth it. You just adjust plans to fit the weather. In my experience June weather is generally better than July but not as good as May. If it's sunny, midges are not so bad; if there is wind they are not so bad; if neither apply, walk or scramble (with hats with a midge net and gloves kept handy for stops). 

Edit: Forgot to say, I'd be more concerned with ticks, than midges.

https://www.mountaineering.scot/safety-and-skills/health-and-hygiene/ticks

Post edited at 11:10
OP Denislejeune 02 Mar 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Ticks indeed!

 Robert Durran 02 Mar 2022
In reply to Denislejeune:

Some of the Caithness sea cliffs.


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