UKC

Can anyone see a problem with using the Petzl Connect to a belay anchor point to bring up a second, apart from having to carry it?

Petzl say keep it below or opposite the anchor and limit to a fall factor 1.

Could you give some more detail about what you mean when you say "using the Petzl Connect to a belay anchor point to bring up a second"? 

You clip into the belay with the Petzl connect and belay a climber up from your harness.

Perfectly acceptable.

No.

I mean connecting my harness to the belay with the Connect!!

I've only ever used the Connect to hang from when at a bolt anchor  but would like to try it on a trad belay instead of the adjustable clove hitch.

It's made from a short length of dynamic rope, so functionally no different to being tied on with the rope.

It's a lot of extra clutter on your harness though, and I'm not sure what you gain from using it....

I've only ever used it to connect myself to the anchor while I rethread, or while setting up an abseil. I wouldn't want to use it for my principal belay anchor as I would worry (perhaps unnecessarily) about the friction device slipping under the loading if I had to hold a leader fall.  I would always use the climbing rope for that, although perhaps keep the Connect on as well. I'd then probably tie off the slider with a couple of half hitches, but I'm paranoid.

I can't see it functioning any differently on trad anchors, but why bother? As midgen pointed out, it's an extra bit of clutter on your harness, which is probably already more cluttered than when on a sport climb. It has only one purpose, and that purpose can just as easily and quickly be achieved using gear you'll be carrying anyway.  Unlike a sports climb, you shouldn't be untying from the climbing rope so you don't need an independent anchor.

In that case, I would say no problem at all. Although I'm not sure why you would want to? 

I suppose it may be useful if you are block leading and want to untie and re tie at the anchor to save flipping the rope? 

Would be nicer than making a lanyard out of a sling. 

Off the top of my head two things occur to me

1. escaping the system - it would be a very good idea that you are sure you are still reach the master point on the anchor as you will need to rig off this, not as is often the case the rope between your harness and the clove.

2. in order to use a lanyard, you probably need a master point. Hence most of the time it would be a bit strange to bother to do so, then belay the second from the harness rather than use guidemode. Hence you might conclude: only use the lanyard when the plate is on the anchor.

A personal take:

Is there a problem attaching with it and bringing up a second? Not really, but its not very flexible compared to using the rope. To do it you need a master point. Not all our trad anchors in the UK are close enough together that we can easily arrange one so some times you will use the rope anyway (yes you can use the rope to create a master point but now we are getting quite faffy).

Are there any advantages? The one often touted is speed but, seriously, how long does it take to tie and tighten a clove hitch? "You become what you practise". With practise you can tie and tighten a clove hitch in moments. It does also add more bits to the system which might be things that can go wrong? You are tied to the rope anyway, its right there in front of you, and i adore simplicity over complexity. Also what do you do the day you forget it? You go back to 'normal' rope work and use the rope only you aren't as practised.

Enjoy experimenting. For me the (limited) benefits aren't worth the (also limited) faff.

Standard fare for winter climbing - clip in with it to the first part of the anchor.  Clove hitch into the second.  Fast and easy.  If you are doing the master point thing, then clip into the first belay point initially, then move to the master point.

Many thanks for all the replies. I agree that using the Connect on trad routes could be extra faff but could speed things up on multi pitch bolt routes, via cordia’s and via ferrata where there is already a fixed anchor. I was a little concerned about any slippage. Although it would only amount to about 18 inches it would come as a bit of a shock.