UKC

Off to Leonidio in a couple of weeks, looking for some crag advice. 

I’m approaching the trip as a route climbing boot camp to get in outdoor shape for UK trad once I’m back. So I’m looking for vertical and gently overhung sectors, with long routes, ideally with lots in the 6c+ to 7a+ range. (Looking to do a lot of onsight climbing rather than working projects). No bloody tufas (yuck).

My partner climbs more in the 6a-6c range so having some easier stuff on hand would be very helpful.

All suggestions appreciated!

Jupiter would be perfect for you and it's always in the shade which is most likely where you'll want to be in April.
Sadly there really isn't anything much in the 6a-c range for your friend.

Sabaton might be a good shout, a fair amount in the ranges you are both looking for. It gets a lot of shade and is a very short approach.

The main issue with Leonidio in April is going to be the temperature I think - there are loads of crags that face vaguely South and not so many that face more North. And if you are further narrowing down your options by striking tufas and big over overhangs and slabs and needing crags that have both a body of routes from 6a to 7a+... that's a fair list of specific criteria.

I'm sure others will be along to suggest a few more options, my experience of Leonidio is fairly limited.

I think you're about right there, at least for the crags within a short drive of Leonidio. I'm not sure what options there might be if you drive a bit further south towards Kyparisi? The Venn diagram of shady/vert/no tufas/6a-7a+ does not have much overlap. Sabaton probably has enough for a day or two.

Haha ok, I’m not categorically against overhangs by any means. They’re useful for getting fitter when having to move fast. And when it comes to tufas I can just drop my grade, or see it as good falling practice…

There's been development since I wrote this but hopefully it should prove useful:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/leonidio_limestone-9234

Have fun, Graham

Thanks Graham - I did read that a while back when picking destinations, but I'd forgotten about it, and it will indeed serve as excellent preparatory re-reading!

Theos Pillar and Mars worth a visit and possible shade

Make sure you buy the latest Panjika topo which has more than Aris's

If ok to climb in the sun, vast amounts of choice

Jupiter fits the bill perfectly and there’s loads to keep you busy. No tufas, no hard moves, just massive long homogenous stamina routes. Pretty fun crag and full shade. 

also worth checking the hideout (tufas a bit but good easy stuff)  and kapsala (more like Jupiter) both I think are in the shade and nice. 

Game of thrones is good. A bit tufa but not all, and shady until the end of the day. 

Sabaton is good, pockets and tufas, short and fun

Muppet Show might be good, gets the shade and lots 6b-7c. More like wall climbing with bouldery bits. 

There’s some stuff to the right of the Elona cave that’s good and more like tech vert.

Miti is another good vert tech crag 6c-7c, gets full sun though.

I think they’re the main ones? Hot rock could be an option, but it’s hot. Love ledge is another good shout and the areas near it. Theos Cave is more Tufas though 

Excellent stuff!

We've spent a few months in Leonidio and visited pretty much all of the crags - my favoured grade is 7a and my wife's is 6b so right in line with what you are looking for. You'll find blog posts on all the main sectors here:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/greece/leonidio/

As well as the suggestions above I'd also consider some of the sunny crags (which may be too hot as others have said) eg Theos and Hot Rock:

 https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/03/13/more-tufa-at-theos/ 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/02/28/leonidio-hot-rock-at-last/

... and despite your aversion to tufa, you've got to check out Mars! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/02/26/leonidio-mars-landing-and-a-ret...

Cheers, Dom 

Cheers Dom, that is super helpful!

The guidebook arrived in the post yesterday and I agree that sector Mars is going to be a must-visit. Some of the sectors down by Kyparissi also look well worth the drive. Getting excited!

Mars also has some great non-tufa routes on the left - did a brilliant 40m 6b+ which I can't remember the name

If you drive down to Kyparissi (you should) use the coast road which I think still doesn't appear on google map and go to the Hideout - amazing crag though probably only 2-3 in the 7s

2-3 in the 7s is plenty for a day! Cheers