UKC

Hi everyone

I’m off to Peru on a combined climbing/nonclimbing trip for 6 weeks in the summer and have been thinking about insurance. Whilst there are some appealing peaks <6000m, there are also a lot in the 6-6200m range. There are few above 6200m and I could happily live without being able to climb them. For example, if going up to do Alpamayo at 59xx m, it’d be a shame not to be able to make use of the approach and do Quitaraju at the same time, but its 6040m! But, I’m not fussed by Huascaran. A similar story can be repeated right across the range, to the extent that 6000m does become quite limiting.

Unfortunately, 6000m seems to be the standard cutoff. Below this, prices are very cheap - say, 100 quid or so. Go above this and Snowcard we’re quoting 1500 for me and my partner! At this point, the marginal cost of going from 6000m to 6100-6200m seems pretty ridiculous! BMC has a threshold of 6500m on “alpine and ski” which would cost 600 or so for both of us, but I’m not clear whether the Blanca would require their “high altitude and remote” option (which then gets horribly expensive again).

Has anybody else found themselves in a similar predicament - did you find any solutions?

If not, expedition climbers - what providers have you found to provide best value?

Any other helpful advice welcome.

I'm sure the BMC alpine covers the cordillera Blanca. I'm sure it was what we used last time we went, 2018. But just call them to check. 

It probably won't help much...but anyway:

Faced a similar question in 1986 for the Huayhuash and Blanca.

Got some hefty quotes and then research showed that there actually were no rescue services, so we just insured the medical and repatriation costs instead, which was much more reasonable.  No point insuring for air evacuation from the mountain if it's not available in practice.

That’s a very good point! Will have to mull it over. Thanks!

In reply to robgixer:

Good to hear - I’ll give them a call but sounds like it might be the way to go. Thanks!

If you're concerned about needing actual help/rescue on a mountain, then your most practical option might be just: https://www.globalrescue.com/personal/travelservices.html

But they are not travel insurance, in the regular sense. You would need a regular travel insurance policy for the regular stuff - delayed flights, stolen camera etc.

The issue might come if your regular travel insurance refuses to pay up because they learn you're on a climbing trip, even if the event was not due to climbing a mountain.

I know people do this combo, but whether or not it will always work out for everyone is a bit of a grey area. Insurance for expeditions is a major hassle all around the world right now.

You also need to be realistic about whatever it is you're doing, who with, and how, to determine whether an actual mountain rescue can/will happen. The Blanca is pretty 'civilized' by modern expeditions standards, with guides, transport and some rescue options, if all goes well. But it depends just where you are, when and what happens. The best GR policy in the world might be useless in some situations, for example if there is no one local in Huaraz willing or able to be sent by GR (in the US) to rescue you. Or you might get plucked off an hour after calling GR and you're in hospital soon after.

Global Rescue have started to offer an insurance add-on to their membership package.

Another option if you're 'working to a budget' is Austrian Alpine Cub membership. This includes rescue, repatriation and medical cover up to 10,000 euros. So it's not fully comprehensive insurance cover.