In reply to redjerry:
> But acceptable?...bollocks. I doubt if most people actually considered that a clean ascent at the time.
In all the 40 years I was climbing, from 1967-2007, resting on the gear was regarded as completely unacceptable (by just about everyone). There were quite a few routes where I ended up resting on the gear and then lowered off, but the only one I can remember resting on the gear and then carrying on with is Bachelor's Left Hand at Hen Cloud. So, although I got up it, I definitely don't feel I did an authentic ascent.
Afterthought. I'm probably being unfair to myself when I say 'quite a few routes where I ended up resting on the gear'. I think there were actually very few, possibly as little as 3-4 in my whole climbing career.
Post edited at 04:53