UKC

I'm ready to start having a go at a 7a outdoors. I wondered if anyone has any recommendations for a good one or two to have a go at in the Purbecks or on Portland? 

The climbing guides tell some of the story and I know that one person's easy 7a could be another person's nemesis depending on style. I'm not particularly dynamic or strong but I'm ok on stuff that is slabby or vertical as opposed to overhanging.

Any suggestions much appreciated so I can go exploring and find a few projects to get my teeth into.

I’d recommend 

Sacred Angel (7a)

Last Rose of Summer (7a)

and

Wolfgang Forever (7a)

don’f bother with The Accelerator (7a) as it’s a micro route and you want your first 7a to be a proper one! A lot of people like Jurassic Shift (7a) but it’s my complete nemesis for some reason. 

It was an age ago that my memory comes from, but I would have thought that To Wish the Impossible (7a) would be a reasonable one, I recall that being techy rather than needing lots of dynamism or strength.

Second vote for Wolfgang forever 

Another vote for “To Wish the Impossible “. 

Not sure what it means but I climbed Last Rose of Summer on sight but failed on Wolfgang Forever three times. Wolfgang felt steeper and pumpier to me.

Its been a while but I recall Mr Choo Choo on Dancing Ledge as being good.

Holy Handgrenade, the Cuttings. 

Thanks for all the suggestions - some of these routes look awsome!

To Wish the Impossible, Sacred Angel, Wolfgang Forever are all reasonable choices and great routes.

Purbeck!! 

No, No, No!

Everyone knows it's the Purbecks, Peaks, Brecons.

Peppercorn Rate on quarymans wall. 

If that's the one I think it is. It's also good for indoor bred climbers. Quite easy to read between good holds. 

Only thing I'd say is the bolting isn't as comfortable as on some other routes. If I remember correctly. 

We used it as a warm up/ getting into the groove kinda route. Reliable and fun. 

Hard, not a good first 7a unless the climber is really a boulderer!

Another vote for To Wish the Impossible. Mostly slabby, good holds when steep with places to shake out and recover. And it's great! Enjoy!

Just replying so this sits in my topics, also looking to break into 7a this summer and some good suggestions here, thanks.

Also a very good route to start on. Quarrymans wall is awesome.

Last Rose of Summer (like many Portland routes) is very reach dependent...if you can reach through the crux (I'm 6'0" with a +4 ape factor) the rest of the route is pretty steady.

try

Isle of Slingers (6c+)

while you're around - it's a great route and really 7a! (though I would say that...)

A Brutal Equation at Dancing Ledge is good, quite indoor style, big moves between big holds. 

I also really recommend Superfly Guy at Coastguard North, just really good, varied climbing in a nice location. 

Peppercorn rate is 6c+ in the CC guide.

I don't say this to imply I agree with it or otherwise, just for information to the OP - for breaking into a new grade the sweet spot is probably low in the grade but consensus at that grade, after all!

It's 7a in the rockfax though often declared a soft touch and thereby a good starting point imo.

7a+ Took Me Lung ......

Oh no that's a 4+ .....

Yes, I know what Rockfax grade it is! But like I said, for some people the "so soft touch it's a grade less in the other guide" marker might not be one you want as a breaking-into-a-milestone-grade route, so I thought it was worth mentioning.

Would you not find yourself wondering whether you'd really climbed the grade, if you had no other reference point than the guidebook (pretty inevitable, when breaking into a new grade, I'd have thought)? I feel like I probably would.

Interesting question, and one that is relevant to me.  My first outdoor 6c is 6b+ in the Rockfax guide, 6c in the local guide.  I got it second go and though it was a shade harder than most of the 6b+ I climbed on that trip, but then it clearly wasn't as hard as other 6c routes in the same area.  So I dunno.  

I guess go with the ratings by other users on here - my routes biggest votes go on Low 6c so I'm taking it.   Besides, Rockfax are not the arbiter of grades here, and after some of the assertions Alan's made on here, I take their guides grades with a massive, massive pinch of salt!

Lol that’s what you get for climbing your first 6c in Kalymnos 

Yeah but Julie Ocean gets 7a in the CC, and Julie Ocean is 1) easier than Peppercorn Rate and 2) not 7a*

the CC guide be damned!
 

*even though it took me a billion goes to send Julie Ocean and I did Peppercorn in a session 

Ha! Busted!

Out of interest, what was the route? 

Tomboy at the beach. Got it second go.

Nearly onsighted it putting the draws in, which did on most other 6b+ that trip so I figure it’s a shade harder than most of them, but there’s not much in it. In all honestly it’s a tricky 6b+ or a soft 6c. 

I’m taking it, all the same.

Might skip 6c+ and spend a bit of time redpointing a 7a this year, which I hoping isn’t too ambitious…. Recommendations welcomed!

If you’re going back to Kaly then

Hipponax (7a)

Funnily enough, I was thinking that one might be the one…

A mate of mine sent it on the last day of the trip last year, I had a go on it late on the day and although I want close to sending it, I managed to pull through the moves and go clip to clip so it felt doable… Suits my style too.

Mr Choo Choo - which bit did you think needed a boulderers strength for? I would have described it more as power endurance than having a brick hard crux that really stood out amidst easier ground, which is what I would have assumed from your description.

Overhangy and big moves = bouldery in my book It's pretty powerful.

Then again it was my first 7a of last year, done coming out of lockdown and when I still wasn't fully recovered from my accident (physically or psychologically). Having just got back from Leonidio, I'm sure I'd have a nicer time on it if I tried it tomorrow than I did last year!