UKC

NEWS: The Sandman E10 7a and The Meltdown Extension by Franco Cookson

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 UKC News 19 Apr 2022

Franco Cookson has climbed a direct finish to Steve McClure's GreatNess Wall E10 7a at Nesscliffe. The Sandman maintains the grade of GreatNess, according to Franco, but adds slightly harder climbing in fewer moves. Following his ascent of The Meltdown 9a in March, Franco has also added an extension to the line.

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 jiminy483 19 Apr 2022
In reply to UKC News:

I've got some shoes you can have if you want Franco. 

 Michael Hood 19 Apr 2022
In reply to UKC News:

Firstly, please can we have some topos that show the various lines - both at Nesscliffe and for the Meltdown extension.

Secondly, (go on then, I'll start it off)...

Surely The Sandman isn't a separate route, but merely a small variation on GreatNess Wall - in complete contrast to the furore over The Prow.

[Settles back in comfy chair with popcorn 😁]

10
 Darkinbad 19 Apr 2022
In reply to UKC News:

When 6b/c is a rest...

 Michael Gordon 20 Apr 2022
In reply to Michael Hood:

> Surely The Sandman isn't a separate route, but merely a small variation on GreatNess Wall - in complete contrast to the furore over The Prow.>

Actually they sound like similar cases - a bit of climbing which differs from the parent route. But it's not unusual for a direct finish to get given a different name even if it's not really required. 

2
 Michael Hood 20 Apr 2022
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Agreed, Tea for Two (E4 6a) being a good example. However this sounds like it might be going the way of the "mess" that is above Requiem (E8 6c).

Of course I'm being quite "tongue in cheek" about all of this, because all these ascents are amazing achievements way, way above my pay-grade.

6
Removed User 21 Apr 2022
In reply to Michael Hood:

Like Rhapsody?

 JDal 21 Apr 2022
In reply to Michael Hood:

> ... Surely The Sandman isn't a separate route, but merely a small variation on GreatNess Wall - in complete contrast to the furore over The Prow.

> [Settles back in comfy chair with popcorn 😁]

The Prow furore was why he gave it a name, it's all in his Insta post.  

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 Michael Gordon 21 Apr 2022
In reply to Removed User:

> Like Rhapsody?

Sonnie Trotter did a couple of minor variations on his way to completing Rhapsody - an E8 called Cop Out (which doesn't inspire much confidence in its worth!) and Direquiem at E10ish which seems a more direct slightly easier version of Rhapsody. Whether they'll go in a future guide remains to be seen and it seems likely that to most suitors the main challenges will remain the 'least resistance' line of Requiem and the 'most resistance' line of Rhapsody.


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