UKC

The Emosson Dam

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 jon 07 Jun 2022

After 20 years of being closed, it looks like the route on the Emosson dam is open again:

Dévers Emossionnel (6c)


 Graeme Hammond 07 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

being useless at languages does the access section of that document include any crucial information that needs to be followed to avoid it getting banned again? 

OP jon 07 Jun 2022
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

It wasn't banned because someone did something stupid or had an accident. It was banned because the Emosson company had a change of directorship and the new director didn't like it. Now presumably the director has changed again to someone more amenable.

You go and pay your money and leave an ID card or passport and they give you a key for the ladder at the bottom which accesses the first holds. When you get to the top and give the key back you get your ID back.

You are solely responsible for any accident. Looks like there's no longer a requirement to have a guide with you which was how they got around the insurance angle before. I don't think there ever was an accident during its first lifetime. I believe the route is identical (it was never taken down) but I think some belays might have been rebolted.

Post edited at 11:13
 Dave Garnett 07 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

Looks like typically clever French punning too (if I'm translating it properly) 

1
 Graeme Hammond 07 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

thanks for the info. I'm probably unlikely to do it but it looked very cool when I've seen photos previously so just maybe if I'm in the area.

 AlanLittle 08 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

> You are solely responsible for any accident.

If I'm not totally misreading it with my limited command of French legalese, it appears to say that you're not only liable for your own accidents. You're also legally responsible if some tourist falls and dies because you forgot to close the gate at the top.

OP jon 08 Jun 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

Yes, that's right, there appears to be a sort of cage around the exit of the route, which wasn't there before: https://canal9.ch/fr/escalade-grisante-au-barrage-demosson/?fbclid=IwAR1j3e...  Hopefully there might be some sort of failsafe system whereby you can't get the key out to retrieve your ID docs without locking it, otherwise it makes you wonder how long it'll be before something 'forcément mortel' happens ...!

That said, I remember when it had just been equipped, there were absolutely no extra safety features and spectators were able to just lean over the to and watch. Sometime later cables were placed just inside the railings so you couldn't lean over the railings but people could crawl underneath! I don't think that bit has changed.

Post edited at 09:00
 Morag 08 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

Here goes my translation in case anyone finds it useful (disclaimer - I'm a native Spanish speaker and Spanish translator so apologies for anything that's not idiomatic... I would probably do a better job translating this into Spanish but thought someone might still find it helpful!) 

HISTORY

In the 2000s, four guides from the Trient Valley (Volorio Marc, Lugon Moulin Samuel, Amaudruz Paul-Victor and his son Thierry) conceived of and built this climbing structure on the downstream face of the Emosson dam.

After being closed for twenty years, PURES EMOSSIONS has made the venue compliant with standards and reopened this amazing route for adventurous and experienced climbers to enjoy.

The 150m high dam with a 15m overhanging section are what makes this aerial line so original. This artificial climb is 180m long, and requires the climber to be comfortable climbing 7s, as well as trained for endurance.

AUTHORISATION

You’ll need to go to the PURES EMOSSIONS centre to sign a waiver. You will be asked to leave proof of identity with us and in return you will receive a key that releases/gives you access the ladder that leads to the start of the climb, in order to access the starting holds. After securing your rope on the first bolt, you must put the ladder back in place and lock it again. The same key will enable you to open the exit gate/cage at the top.

Once you have finished climbing, return the key at the centre and we will return your identity document.

IMPORTANT: PLEASE REMEMBER TO CLOSE THE GATE AGAIN AT THE TOP OF THE DAM. If a climber forgets to do this and there is a deadly incident as a result, the negligent climber will be held legally accountable. (!!!)

CLOSE/LATCH/LOCK THE LADDER AND THE EXIT GATE

TECHNICAL ASPECTS AND GEAR

The first three pitches are 65° to 90° steep and will get you to a 90m height. The following two and last pitches are at the vault (?) with a 15m overhanging section, spanning the last 60m – they require great athleticism and are not well placed for a fall. If you find you’ve overestimated your ability, abseil down no later than at the third belay.

Gear required: double ropes, 15 quickdraws.

ACCESS

Access to the start of the route is through the path as marked on the topo. There are two possibilities:

Traverse across the entire top of the dam, descend through the Tyrolese exit steps, walk towards the PURES EMOSSIONS banner and follow the instructions and the pink signs.

OR

Take the Tyrolese (if you’re travelling light) and you’ll arrive directly at the banner.

FEE

Climbing: 25 (CHF I presume?)

Climbing + Tyrolese: 35

In reply to Morag:

maybe my memory is a bit foggy, but I'm sure I remember that the fee used to cover someone to keep an eye on progress through binoculars. I could have sworn it was that climb!

 Jim Houghton 09 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

This is great news! I remember being desperate to do this back in 2004 but it had just shut. Does anyone know if this is definitely the case? Anyone done it? I'm tempted to do a trip specifically for this!?

 BRILLBRUM 09 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

I couldn't find anything on-line vid wise of the Emosson being climbed, but I'm guessing that this of the Luzzone Dam in Switzerland being climbed is going to indicative of what it's like.

youtube.com/watch?v=_LUGxIIoQes&

 Toerag 09 Jun 2022
In reply to Morag:

>  you will receive a key that releases/gives you access the ladder that leads to the start of the climb, in order to access the starting holds. After securing your rope on the first bolt, you must put the ladder back in place and lock it again.

I'm intrigued as to how you get back up to the starting holds after packing the ladder back away! Maybe something is lost in translation?

 john arran 09 Jun 2022
In reply to Toerag:

If the first bolt is clipped already, I presume you can just pull up on the rope to start.

 Cake 09 Jun 2022
In reply to john arran:

Pretty hard if you're seconding, no?

OP jon 10 Jun 2022
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> maybe my memory is a bit foggy, but I'm sure I remember that the fee used to cover someone to keep an eye on progress through binoculars. 

Not as far as I remember - the fee was to make money for the boys that equipped it!

There's something rather strange with the notes that Morag translated (not her translation) - it says that during the years 2000s four guides from the Trient Valley... etc - well I first climbed it on the 23 June 1996, which was about two days after it was opened! I wonder how they could have made such a mistake about their own route (unless, of course, les années 2000 refers somehow to the 90s!?)

To Jim Houghton, I don't think they'd put it on Swiss TV (see link higher up) if it wasn't really the case.

And to start the route, climb with double ropes. The leader uses the ladder to reach the first bolt, and clips into it, and attaches one rope to the first bolt, (with the end on the ground), leaving enough slack to tie the second in. The second now replaces the ladder then belays the leader to the first belay as normal, using both ropes. The leader then belays the second up - at first on one rope, as he/she batmans up the rope, and then clips into the first bolt to sort the mess out... and then seconds the pitch as normal. It's not very far to the first bolt (though further than the badly stitched photo below implies, due to the snow) and doesn't really pose too much of a problem as it's slabby, but just in case, it might be a good idea to put a few knots in it. Bear in mind that the first pitch is slightly diagonal so not easy to pull the second up. There are probably numerous other permutations... 

Post edited at 13:16

In reply to jon:

> Not as far as I remember - the fee was to make money for the boys that equipped it!>

Yes there was definitely the fee, but there was also a guy there with a pair of binoculars collecting a couple of euros from everyone. My guess was that it was a local running his own little business. However, it didn’t seem like a bad idea,


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