UKC

Hi, 

I'll be in Chamonix next week and was wondering if anyone currently over there knows what the conditions are like on the Frendo Spur right now?

Also do you have any recommendations for next week? looking for long rock routes or easier mountaineering routes. 

Thanks,

In reply to Freshprintce:

I've heard conflicting reports that the top of the frendo is grey ice and also that it has been recently climbed in reasonable condition. If you don't get feedback here I recommend checking in at the PGHM office, or just looking up when you get to Cham.

For rock routes, I highly recommend the Papillon on Aig de Peigne. Full day of climbing (for most) with interest throughout the whole route and easily accessible from the lift.

In reply to morpcat:

second that, good for acclimatising on too.. 

In reply to morpcat: would have thought that nowadays grey ice at the top is considered ‘reasonable conditions’. We did it with very ‘dark grey’ ice and it was distinctly hard work.  

In reply to Freshprintce: if you do it knowing it will be ice at the top take a few more screws than you think you need for usual alpine routes as it’s pretty scary up there without them  

In reply to smithaldo:

Back in the day it was certainly considered a cop out if you didn’t climb the top buttress. I never heard of anyone who didn’t climb the rock, as it’s the spur direct,  the crux and an integral part of the route. So turn the top on the ice and you’ve not quite done the Frendo? However I’m sure many people won’t agree with me because that’s how it’s described in Rockfax, but not Rebuffats Mont Blanc 100 finest routes, which was a sort of bible to a generation.

In reply to Freshprintce:

I did it in the early 70's.  Much of the ridge was soft snow (we were there in the evening) but the top turned to quite difficult, hard technical ice.  We never even considered not doing the rognon but it's worth knowing that the climbing on that is significantly harder than anything below. I seem to recall a couple of pitches that were deserving of E grades.

In reply to Philb1950: yeah maybe it’s just trends… can’t imagine many people (if any) now consciously go up the rognon. In a way it seems logical if you bivvy to do rock day one, snow and ice day two.

To be honest we wouldn’t have been able to climb the rognon given it’s a lot harder. Perhaps a cop out but no more than the north ridge of latok or Franco doing the prow 😉

In reply to Philb1950:

Maybe the Rognon way will become more popular in future as conditions become drier. Rebuffat gives the Rognon as the crux…having one move of V…

In reply to smithaldo:

Completely agree with your Latok comment. That’s even more of a diversion and the true line is yet to be done. I was supposed to try it with Rab and Martin Boysen in the 80,s but lack of funds prevented that for me. They got turned round by snow conditions high up. Maybe they should have traversed off.