UKC

I have a Trek ZR8500 from around 2006. I love it. Super responsive. Really light.

However it’s starting to get a bit ‘rattly’ and likely needs some (lots?) bits replaced. Given improvements in tech in the last 15 years. I’m wondering, do I invest in getting it stripped back and renovated. Or ditch it and buy new?

In reply to Graeme G:

Mountain bike standards have changed massively since then. Not just the change from 26in to 27.5/29 wheels but a whole bunch of wheel axle and other changes as well.

So it might be tricky to get parts. I know a few years back I decided it wasnt worth the time invested although that said with the current bike supply chain issues it might end up differently.

In reply to mondite:

Thanks, that’s really worth thinking about. Hadn’t considered parts etc.

In reply to Graeme G:

I like maintaining and keeping things going, even occasionally when it gets to being a whole new broom (new handle, new head, another new handle....)

But yes bikes have come on a long way since then, so unless you just bimble about on it, then you will probably appreciate a whole new bike. 

Theres no right and wrong here though, just what you want out of it.

In reply to The Potato:

Thanks. It’s mostly an approach bike for hills, or the occasional red trail. But every time I get on it, it’s still the same feeling of ‘whizz’. It just wants to go, even if my legs don’t. Wouldn’t want to lose the fun of it. But I’m sure new bikes would offer similar. I’ve just become quite attached to it!

In reply to Graeme G:

I think 26" wheels and tyres will be around for quite some time yet (as replacement components). Just perhaps not at the bleeding edge of technological development. If you like your bike, why change it? If you're worried about part supplies, just stock up on consumables or anything particularly fragile. Too many people have bought new 'better' bikes and then moaned that they're not as fun as their old one. 'Fun' is so hard to pin down!

Full disclosure: I have two MTBs, both on 26" wheels (and triple chainsets!) and don't feel a crying need to replace them.

In reply to Marek:

You see that’s why I asked. You’re absolutely right, I’m sure other bikes would be great but would they give me the same emotional response? It has FoxRL forks with only 80mm travel. Makes rough descents highly entertaining and demanding. Which is one reason I’m thinking of a change, more travel to save the pressure on my ageing arms.

In reply to Graeme G:

OK, another disclosure: I have upgraded the forks on both my MTBs. Lighter, a bit more travel (on the FS MTB) and more knobs to twiddle to distract me from the truth that both bikes deserve a better rider than me.

In reply to Graeme G: I think when you go and have a look at how little one gets for one’s money these days you will be surprised . Go and have a potter around a few big ( and little ) bike shops . The price of a decently spec d mtb is eye watering ( IMHO ) . I was in the market for decent full sus for my 14 year old son and couldn’t really  find anything decent that was remotely sensibly priced . ( I don’t really know what my budget was but everything I looked at seemed too much for what is was . However , hanging in the bike shed was my old battered 26 inch Santa Cruz  , looking very sorry for itself  having been canibalised  over the years . So I decided  by to completely renovate it for him . It will be finished next week when the new bearings arrive . Lots of new bits , forks completely rebuilt by a pro , frame powder coated , all new bearings , new dropper seat post , hope hub 26 inch wheels off eBay.  Cost so far about £850 . There is nothing wrong with 26 inch mtb s . 27.5 may be better   , 29 is ok but everybody rode 26 inch bikes for years . Renovate it . 

In reply to mike123:

I did some online shopping last night and the price band I’d be looking at would be something like £2K. Affordable, but if I can get my old 8500 renovated for less than £1K it makes financial sense. I’m actually hoping to pop into a bike shop today so your post is well timed. Thanks.

In reply to Graeme G:

I reckon a new one for a grand would be better than the old one. But maybe less exciting because it would be more capable. But also reckon that a grand is a big budget to do up the old one if you are just replacing worn out components roughly like for like. 

In reply to Swig:

One thing I can’t find online, which I’ll have to do once I get home, is the weight of my 8500. One reason I love it is that it’s super light. Anything new would need to compete. One reason being lifting it onto my roofrack! 

In reply to Graeme G:

£1000 is plenty to completely overhaul the bike , including lots of new  bits . 

In reply to Graeme G: What do you use it for, and want to in the future.  

I'd probably go new tho'.  It's a faff getting bits for a 26" bike, and , heresy, a 29 is going to do most everything better

In reply to Graeme G:

I upgraded the forks on my Giant XtC (of similar era) from cheap 80mm to "decent" 100mm (after checking with Giant) and it made a huge difference. The frame won't be designed for any more than that, though - and it'll probably wreck the steering anyway. A quick check of specs online says you have disk brakes - you might need a brake adapter from IS to PM, which means going from 160mm to a 180mm front disk (which is what I did), or changing the brake caliper.

From that era, you'll have a geometry centered around a short top tube, long stem and narrow bars - current ones seem to be long top tubes, short stems and very wide bars. I personally prefer narrower "old skool" bars - especially as my local trails snake through the trees a lot!

I'm still running 3x9 and 26" wheels and no plans to change that until it becomes too hard to get decent spares - I just pick up spares as I see them and keep them in the drawer.

In reply to Graeme G: maybe a bit older than yours but heres a rebuild 

youtube.com/watch?v=nP6xQm3OZ1c&

In reply to mike123:

Thanks all. Much to consider. I’ll definitely need to try a few new bikes and see how they feel.

Economics says rebuild. And save the rest of the cash.
Eyes says buy shiny new one. Just cause it’s new and shiny.  

In reply to Graeme G:

oh and another thing ...........

unsuprisingly the bike shops are full of ebikes. i went down to wheelbase in kendal  to look for the lads new bike, very little in the way of non ebikes

In reply to mike123:

Plan to get one of those once I’m on my last legs. Which will hopefully not be for another 16-20 years. 
If I bought one now the ‘ethics’ committee would ask serious questions as to the validity of any claims to hills climbed with the use of excess aid.

In reply to mike123:

Had a quick dip into that video. It’s quite tempting to do it myself…..although I’m usually utterly crap at technical challenges. But maybe that’s a wee project I could get my teeth into come the autumn. Thanks.

In reply to Graeme G:

Treat the rebuild as making a current-gen flat-barred 'Gravel-like' bike and you'll be right on-trend.

Also consider going wide-range 1x for a sleek new look (11sp rather than 12sp)

In reply to wbo2:

That's the nub of it: What do you mean by 'better'? Faster? OK, yes, if you actually race seriously where getting to the end first is more important than the journey. More fun/enjoyment (=want to do it again)? Not so obvious that a 29 is that sort of better. It's faster, but that just means the fun doesn't last as long and crashes tend to be more painful/expensive. The OP seemed to have a more complex definition of 'better' than just 'faster'.

I'd also argue ('cos I can) that 26" parts sourcing is *less* faff since the choices are simpler: No agonising about which one of 100 rear-specific tyres is the best one today (it'll be different tomorrow) since there probably only 10 to choose from - and they're 99% as good as the other 90 that are only available in 27.5 or 29. Good enough for me!

In reply to ChrisJD:

I would def be considering that. My brother has that changed to 11sp, with no loss in ‘performance’.

But why not 12sp? I need all the granny gear I can get.

In reply to Graeme G:

I checked out your bike on the Trek Archive site

https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/2006/trek/8500#/us/en/2006/trek/8500/de...

Your going to have spend ££££s to get something as light as your current bike, unless you've found yourself struggling on steep downhill sections I would keep the old bike because that is the only terrain that bikes with modern geometry make easier to ride.

If your fork bushings aren't worn out and the stanchions aren't damaged, your Fox fork will be good as anything they make now once its been serviced. Your only options for replacing it would be secondhand anyway as no-one makes decent forks with straight 1 1/8" steerers anymore.  I borrowed a mates new Orange 5 last year with Rockshox forks and they weren't any plusher than my 2002 Marzocchi Z1s.

I would fit a brand new 11 speed XT 11-46 cassette and a 30T or 30T single front chainset, which give as low a bottom gear as the 22:34 bottom combination on your current 9spd triple.  Modern single rings matched with one of Shimanos clutched derraileurs means dropped chains are a thing of the past.

Brakes haven't got any better so if the old ones still work keep them.

26" wheels are marginally slower rolling than 29", but unless you're racing you aren't going to notice.

Tubeless tyres and wheels are the best upgrade I ever made, large tyres 2.2"-2.5" with low profile tread roll much faster with more grip than 1.8"-2.2" nobblies, unless you live somewhere with really claggy mud where you need clearance.

If you've not already got a carbon fibre handlebar, I'd recommend getting one they damp out a lot of the buzz and reduce fatigue.

In reply to Graeme G:

I've seen a lot of posts online from people complaining how fragile 12sp is and how finnicky the indexing is from cramming 12 sprockets into the same space where they used to be 8 or 9.

In reply to Jon Greengrass:

Thanks

In reply to Jon Greengrass:

That’s absolutely fantastic. Thanks. I didn’t find the archive website when I was searching so that’s a great find. And as I suspected it is a stunningly light bike. I don’t race and only bought it as I had an insurance cheque from a stolen bike. Plus the 8500 was on sale.

Hopefully I can keep the love affair alive.

In reply to Graeme G:

12 sp won't (necessarily) give you a bigger range; they wear out quicker, cost more and can be hard to get at the moment.

I run E-Thirteen 11sp 9-46t cassettes on three bikes. But they are expensive (immediately contradicting the above, lol); but you get cheaper smaller (but still wide) range 11sp cassettes from SRAM and Shimano.

In reply to Jon Greengrass:

Reduces dropped chains or sure, but not never; add a chain guide to reduce the risk further.

I'm also not a fan of the Shimano clutch system - had the lever open quite a few times on the xbike.  Needs keeping an eye to make sure you keep it tight as the derailleur wears.

Much prefer SRAMs clutch system on my MTBs.

In reply to ChrisJD:

Thanks. Not overly worried about cost. But good to know my options.

In reply to Graeme G:

You could be a bit more radical and also think about

- Slackening the head angle with an angle headset.

- Riser and wider bars (more stability)

- You got a dropper post on it already?

- Bigger disks and brake upgrade

In reply to Graeme G:

I went from a 15 yr old hard tail to a new full sus last year and has revolutionised my experience. Way more fun and gets more use as a result. I still have and occasionally use old one, it’s fine but…

You could maybe go hire a new bike for an afternoon see if you enjoy before committing?