UKC

Hi All, 

Fist time poster here, looking to tap the wisdom of this forum. 

I'm after recommendations for a good crag to take a beginner in the Lake District - we'll be coming from the South on the M6, so South Lakes/North West of the Dales or even North Bowland area would be ideal, but don't mind travelling a bit further for a good location. 

Plan is to take it easy and practice placing gear and building anchors on the ground first so I'm looking for somewhere we won't be getting in people's way, followed by some top-roping and maybe a little single pitch leading on mod/v.diff routes depending how it goes. 

Hutton Roof would be a good place to start.  Just south of the Lakes proper so you'll get there a bit earlier in the day, usually fairly quiet, and a bunch of decent Diffs and VDiffs.

Trowbarrow is a good bit closer than the South Lakes. It's a limestone quarry, so it definitely will not give you a feel for Lakes climbing, but it's good, single pitch. I can't vouch for the easy routes, but I imagine that the top anchors are mainly trees like the rest of the crag.

Trowbarrow's not really got the beginner friend vdiffs the OP is after.

Second the Hutton Roof suggestion. Chapel le Dale would also be good. Or Farleton.

We had our first trip to Gouther Crags at the weekend.  Easy access from Shap and it was quiet.

Truss Buttress (VD) was a nice route and good for gear placement, my girlfriend wished she'd lead the first pitch (she's just starting to lead) and second one was a scramble, avoidable by walking around on ledges.

But maybe pocket that one for progression and +1 for Hutton Roof Crags first.  That was one of our first venues for learning to place gear on easy stuff.  Beautiful spot, but different to the lakes in terms of rock and scenery being limestone.

I tend to think of Hutton Roof as a soloing/bouldering location but I would concur with your recommendation. It's got a lovely atmosphere when the sun's out and would be ideal for "learning the ropes" so to speak.

It really depends what you're after: a quick hit or a quality day? If it's a quick hit, yes, Hutton Roof is ok. It's very short and polished and crozzly, but in a pretty place with plenty of easy routes.

However, if you're after a quality day, then Long Scar on Pike O'Blisco is excellent. Great crag, great rock, great location. You could easily start the day with an easy route that you lead, then take them away from the popular routes, pick a bit of nondescript rock and show them gear placements. I've personally done this before at the top of the crag, where there's a big lump of rock above the crag. You could then build up by picking a line up a bit of easier ground right of the guidebook-described routes, most of which goes at Mod/Diff, set up a top rope and then have them mock-lead a route. They might even build up to something like Platt Gang Groove (VD) or Intruder's Corner (VD) - though, do brief them on a belay/pre-place a belay as these can prove tricky for novices to spot.

Either way, both lovely places because the NW is the best

A plus one for that as well, I only didn't make that suggestion because of the extra driving through the lakes, off the M6 and main routes.  Go quick before the schools are off!

For somewhere close-ish to M6 you might look at  Whitestone. The main crag has one or two V Diffs but also has a small area of beginners slabs, short easy routes, a bit lower. At least one of these is poorly protected but could be top roped. Beware Elk on the upper tier which is easy but almost no gear. Chimney Route on main crag is good, and safe for second though the climb can be a bit 3 dimensional and so baffling for a novice. Good route to work up to? 

Thank you very much all. Some top tips here, and definately some good spots to consider (and add to my own to-do list!). 

IIRC Chapel le Dale can be awkward for belays though. And tbh the routes are so short it's almost pointless putting a rope on them! Twistleton would be a better option in that area - it's easily the best low grade trad lime for miles around.