UKC

Obviously route dependent, however, what climbing gear would people recommend for the Dolomites?

Is it worth doubling up on nuts and cams ? are tri cams worth getting for pockets? aramid slings useful for threads ?

Thanks 

Aled

In reply to Aled Williams:

Probably not

Dunno. Never used them myself, seen locals using them there though. Not sure what advantages they really have over nicely flexible small cams like Totems (that should get me some dislikes from tricam fanatics and start a flame war)

Definitely. Absolutely invaluable.

In reply to Aled Williams:

That depends on what and where you're climbing and grades.  I don't take much at all as there is lots insitu stuff - old pitons and threads and things.  But I only climb up to V. 

I once wrote:  Dolomites is all pockets and knobs with few good gear cracks. Pitons are often everywhere. On popular climbs there are cement pegs/rings for belays. Heaps of natural threads (long slings) and cam pockets with the odd crack for nuts/hexes.

- Slings (4x long, 4x short, 1x extra long)

- Crabs x5

- Quick Draws x 6 for general climbs (+ x4 for sports climbs) = 10

- 1 set nuts (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 enough)

- Hexes x 2

- Cams 0.75, 1, 2 (no aliens required)

- Ab Tat (lots enough for 4-5 abseils)

That is probably meaningless for more modern harder routes or off the beaten track.

In reply to Aled Williams:for VS to E3 on longer routes - 14 quickdraws with at least half as extenders  single set of nuts (possibly double 5s and 6s) and a single small set of cams (wee blue to big gold)  there’s pegs and threads everywhere.  Feels a bit exciting for the first couple of days but this is what we used for things like the comici and south Face of marmolada and a lot of other long stuff  

In reply to arose:

This. Also find the superlight rocks very useful as they are light and have alternative side placements for flares. If its an easy route I ditch the big cams as there are very often pegs or cracks where you need them in chimneys etc. Aramid slings are great for sure. Hexs, well there are enough cow bells to not need them... Adjustable lanyards are super useful for abseil pistes and belays, 50m ropes, definitely don't need 60, indeed sometimes a 60m thin single is perfect. Plenty of water in a clip able container, I gaffer tape a short sling to a nalgene and the clip the bottle loop as well so you can clip it to the back of your harness, that way as a leader you can climb packless and just have your second carry your shoes and a light pack with water proofs. Think that's it?

In reply to AlanLittle:

They cost and weigh a third as much. A bit faffier to place but if I was swinging leads and turned up to a belay to see that my partner had used 3 cams in the anchor that I'd now be doing without on the next pitch, I'd be a bit more bummed out than if I turned up and the equivalent tricams were deployed.

Tricams also cover as doubles for your cams and your nuts, so are pretty versatile. 

I'm no fanboy but I always carry black, pink and red on limestone. On pockety rock they are fantastic. 

In reply to PaulJepson:

To be fair though, on trade routes in the Dolomites, most belays are equipped with pitons and/or ring bolts, so it's an unlikely scenario. I do love a tricam, but very rarely carry them in the dollies. It also depends on the area but not all dolomite is particularly pocketed. When it's yellow rock you do find them more often, especially accompanied by crystals and coral formations inside, but it's rare that you could only use a tricam. In grey rock, you sometimes get long horizontal slots, those often form a thread... dunno, I would rather take a cam or two extra...

In reply to Aled Williams:

A friend of mine used to guide in the Dolomites on his usual Lakes rack. I imagine you can just take that and think about Beardy Mike's advice and you'll be grand. I wouldn't bother with tricams because they can be time consuming.

In reply to Aled Williams:

We've only ever carried a few cams - maybe purple to yellow dragon cams for the easier longer routes V/V+ and then added some smaller cams if it was harder. 1.5 sets of wires - the idea of carry superlights sounds like good idea. The only time we've lived to regret this was on Steger Direct (VI) where some bigger gear would tame some of the run out. 

Tended to go for both carry a bag with a camelbak - I think I'd struggled with only 1 litre on the longer days out. (That's probably a reflection of my fitness & speed tho)