UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_798-749285

Fit Club Week 800 will be posted up on 17th July, so have a think about something to try in the week of 10th – 17th July or the week following (got to allow some flexibility!).  I’m in Wales for Thursday and Friday and am on Cloggy Thursday targeting Shrike for openers.  Hell of a way to carry the beer though!

Stats:

Randy:  Sounds like the gym is really delivering for you with the one-arm lockoffs!  That’s impressive and to get moving on a one-armer is fantastic – as you say, ‘huge progress’.  Impressive that you are keeping it going despite the heat and don’t be hard on yourself for making a bit more effort than you had planned – if you are feeling good, that is what tends to happen anyway.  As long as you are avoiding injury, the tough sessions are going to be working for you.  Pull ups going well as doing sets of ten or more is pretty tough.  Be careful with reducing the rest too much – certainly when I did rapid cycles every thirty seconds it was associated with injuring my elbow, though there were other things going on. 

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with your targets for week 800! 

JayK :  A training facility that is ‘enjoyable’!  Whatever next?!  It must be a real asset.  Good to hear that work load is easing and that you are knuckling down with your trip in mind.

You are doing plenty of stretching – just about daily – which I think is a really good discipline.  It has got to help with the training anyway, but so useful for climbing itself as well.  I really enjoy it and notice the improvement, but struggle to keep a routine going with work commitments.  I shall get back to it as I have been off any form of training recently, mainly a busy schedule with weekends being taken up with family stuff.  Genuinely inspired by your efforts.  Do you have different stretching routines?  How long are you taking with each session?  Anything you particularly recommend?

Alan:  That’s a pretty quiet week Alan, though I know you are nursing an injury anyway.  The trick is to declare a ‘deload’ week, then we all nod sagely and look forward to the leap in standards that inevitably follows!  I’m running deload weeks together at the moment though, which isn’t quite so highly recommended!  Hope you get through the coughing soon – it can be remarkably debilitating.

No worries if you can’t join in with target chasing – it is only a game after all and inevitably some of us will have things in the way.  You can at least join in the bottle of beer bit!

SSB: Glad that the finger is on the mend!  Mine were definitely sore after the session at the Cornice, but got back to normal fairly quickly, so just an indication of pulling a bit harder that I’m used to these days.  I’ve been reflecting on the bouldering discussion – definitely something that I haven’t done for too long now, so I will bring some back into the schedule in the Autumn if I can find time.  It is partly that I have to travel further – when I did loads, I lived in Chesterfield, so it was about fifteen minutes to the crags.  There doesn’t seem to be much around here, but perhaps I’m not looking hard enough.

‘Fairly swift’ redpoint!  I’d call it ‘lightening fast’ – it really was very efficient and challenged my assumptions that redpointing would involve hours of rope holding.  Mind you, I have seen it done in a somewhat more laboured fashion!  Hope you are managing to get some trad in the mix as well?

Good to see that the Tough Mudder was an enjoyable experience.

SteveJC94:  Interesting feedback on Clwyd.  To be fair, I think I need to persist with the place as I definitely haven’t been on the better bits.  The guide does hype some bits though – the five classic Dinbren right wing E3s look like decent routes, but don’t fire me up in the same way that some of the Chee Tor ones might.  I was surprised how short the right wing was when I visited and was almost glad to be rained off!  Agree that the outlook and ambience is brilliant (less so at Trevor) and that in amongst stuff are some truly impressive lines.

Some good training productivity for you, including work on the campus board and gym exercises on alternate days.  Excellent discipline in the midst of the climbing season.  Hope you manage to get outdoors as well this week – preferably with a partner.  You can always try on here (Fit Club or UKC more broadly) – it has saved the day for me on many an occasion.

AJM:  Reflecting on your reflections I think I need to pay more attention to my own advice as I have really struggled with training time lately.  A combination of work, climbing days, social life and hobby projects getting in the way.  I guess you will probably arrive at the point in the week where things ease off feeling like a rest is what you need?!  Good effort squeezing in the pull ups – greasing the groove – as a pre-breakfast routine!

Hardly the best set up for a bouldering session, so well done for getting out at all with Mini and Micro.  Hopefully they will thank you for the enriching experience of a trip to the Cuttings – they would probably have preferred a paddle down at the tip of Portland if the sun was out!

Ross Barker:  Hitting 30 kg on the no-hangs seems pretty good, though I haven’t tried these yet so don’t have a comparison point.  Some good work on the Moonboard – I have looked at one of these on my rare visits to the wall/  Presumably there is an app with the problems listed?  I can see that this would be quite an interesting way of revisiting the same bit of wood – maybe something to consider in the winter months as I need to build some power and that is presumably what the board is targeting…

I suppose the board training overlaps with your bulletproof fingers aims in any case, but you could increase the number of max hang sessions each week to improve you adaptation – certainly two sessions would still give you plenty of rest.

Hope you manage to get out on the boulders at some point.

Steve Claw:  Thoughtful comments on shunting and top roping and I absolutely agree that the ‘on rock’ bit seems critical to me.  I don’t like plastic, but if I do use it for long, I find it has very little application to real rock, other than some stamina gains perhaps.  Your point about deliberately trying to pull hard 2-3 times a week is noted.  With my focus on trad, I can go through a week without really having to do this and it probably helps explain why strength ends up dissipating through the season!  Your analysis of top-roping seems spot on – focus on the moves, the sequences and the gains – probably really efficient.

Again, an impressive tally of new routes.  Is this guidebook work that is leading to all this discovery?

Not sure about encyclopaedic – it is just a function of being old, but kindly put anyway!

Tom Green:  Have you reported the same week twice, or did you enjoy Raindrop so much that you returned for a second go?!  No particular problem and it will ensure a particularly impressive post this week!

I remain impressed by your general fitness stuff – the running and swimming are always pretty stretching by my (veteran) standards.  I think a good base level of cardio is helpful for all sorts of things, not least general health. 

You seem to be doing really well on your targets, which perhaps indicates how thoughtfully these were put together.  You are getting through the ‘why haven’t I climbed here’ list and clearly enjoying the outcomes.  I lived in or near the Lakes for ten years and I’ve never been to the Napes, so I am suitably shamed.  As an observation to help your September reset, you seen short on your ‘should climb more at this crag’ and possibly your ‘local must do’ list.

Planet Marshall:  Excellent!  Good to see you back. 

Plenty of views on Clwyd limestone already on the thread, but I’d add that Trevor is just about the worst of it and that some of the grades there feel pretty tough – I think it is a style thing.  I did have a good day there once, but it would take some persuasion to get me to go back.  Nice views though as ever.  Good effort on the trad at Llanymynech – I’ve always wanted to do these but always had rain when I have turned up.  Peak lime is better (much better really), but eventually it runs out… then you have to wait thirty-five years for a second go!  I do agree though, a Peak District venue like WCJ – not very popular apart from the bolted bits, has better rock and routes than lots of Clwyd (and a reasonable view!).  Anyway, not much lost as Clwyd is easy to reach.

No advice from me on Aeopow, but I’m sure someone like Ally will have the numbers that you need.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Part two:

Ally:  Clearly the top rope / shunting works then, though it must be a right pain if things are steep, so there is a risk that it helps with technical walls, but does little for stamina fests.

A decent performance on the holiday tests – thirty-one push ups is good going.  I’m expecting that the 1-armed dead hangs might be a bit of a struggle after the holiday dining, but everyone needs a break sometimes.  No doubt you’ve got back to this lovely weather and are looking at your Gorge projects again?  I’ve never even called in for a look, but it sounds impressive – a bit above my paygrade, but I should call by on the way past to see what it is all about.  Any advice for Planet Marshall on aeropow protocols…?

Ger_the_Gog:  Good to see that you completed the target for June that you had set.  Always nice to tick something off!  If you are switching to endurance then I guess the same advice would apply to hillwalking as running – train slow.  I think the trick is to ensure that most (80%) of your training time is spent in zone 2, for which a rough guide is ‘able to continue a conversation easily’, which would certainly mean taking your time on the uphill bits at least.  Zone 2 ensures that most of your fuelling is through stored fat, rather than muscle stored glycogen, so the muscles don’t build up lactic acid in the way they do with anaerobic processes.  In this zone, you should feel as if you can go on for ever.  Runners often complain that to maintain the zone they have to drop to a walk on hills, but it does promote endurance and heart health much more effectively than higher zone training.

Good to see some work with the weights making a regular appearance.

Thanks also for offering to help out with my Wales trip.  At one point, my partner was looking for someone for Monday and I was going to put you in touch, but he sorted it from within our group before I reached home.

Sheep: It may be a scant report by your reckoning, but it sounds as if you were pretty pivotal to proceedings on the club relay.  Without your wise decision to explore the route ahead of the day, the younger and fitter runners might still be out there!  The 10km time isn’t at all bad either as keeping under 6 mins per km for that distance is a good standard when it isn’t part of your regular schedule.  I know I would struggle with that and would probably need to invoke the veteran excuse!  Cycling might well have been a decent warm down, but clearly you are putting together the components for triathlon  with your weekly routine – well done for fitting it all in around work.

Did the club achieve the sub 24 goal?

Biscuit:  Understand your rationale for preferring the much more local Chapel Head Scar.  I haven’t been since the place was bolted though was involved in some of the early development, including a route in the banned area on the left done in error.  I remember Moonchild was given E2 originally, which cwas quite some sandbag as the first gear was fairly high!

Good to see that you are applying yourself to the indoor training – of course, work makes this an easy thing to include in the routine which has to help.  Some good ticks at Llanymynech as most of the routes are fairly long.  I keep meaning to go back, but if I am heading out I tend to look for trad if I’m driving anywhere at this time of year and it is a bit restricted with birds early in the season.  A productive session at Chapel even if you ended up ‘not happy’ – at least it taught you something!  Isn’t this PE that you are missing, which Steve McClure says is the least trained element of the portfolio – probably because many of us won’t find it that necessary?

Hope Buttermere delivers for you – High Crag would be stunning in these conditions.

Liam P:  Samey is fine!  Mine are becoming thin at the moment and I am nowhere near maintaining the training habit recently.  I’ve just had too many things on the go and wasn’t that well last week.  That said, I like the discipline of Fit Club posting as a motivation aid, so hopefully it helps to see you through the busy spell as well.

Two stints on the fingerboard is a decent return and that pull strength is class leading.  I think we need to unleash you at the bottom of some continental tufa route at some point.  Or perhaps something at Riglos?  Keep the rehab going – it will pay off in the end.

Enjoy your week as well. 

Tyler:  Not sure that I saw a post this week, but hope the development of some new partners means that you are too busy climbing and sending projects on Pen Trywn.  As it seems to be a popular destination for you, I’m assuming that it is reasonably local for you?  What a place to have on your doorstep!  I’ve got loads to do there, but it is close to two hours away, so I tend to press on to Anglesey or the mountains if I’ve gone that far, though Pen Trywn does have plenty of decent trad in the mix.  I shall reboot my priorities in the Autumn!

In reply to Derek Furze:

No actual training this week, but two days out on the rock.

Monday went to Agden as wanted shelter from the wind.  Had a good day and ticked Castor (E1 5c), Pollux (6c) and Asteris (E2 5c) amongst others.  Happy with that as Castor and Pollux are both quite intricate and continuous at E1.  Asteris was a step up and run out as well, but good climbing on the headwall once the death flake has been negotiated.

Millstone on Friday, but had pulled my back and shoulder moving boards the day before so forced to take it s bit easier.  Managed Eros (E1 5b) and Plexity (HVS 5a) amongst others, so by no means wasted.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi fit club people, I hope you'll allow me to join your thread of mutual encouragement.....

I've been training on the sofa with Netflix for quite a while now and am finding it hard to change my ways.... I'm hoping that publicly announcing my goals may help me keep to them, is that how this works?  Do I list my projected actions? Any advice or guidance for participating in this thread will be most welcome.

J.

In reply to John Mcshea:

Hi John and welcome to Fit Club.  Good to have you interested.

It's pretty simple really.  Each Sunday morning 'statto' (me at the moment) posts up the stats - basically a response to whatever people share in response to the previous Sunday's thread.  People essentially post up their week of fitness work - at this time of year often a record of climbing or walking or trail running or whatever; in winter commonly a bit more gym focused with talk of training phases and such like.  People ask advice, discuss injury rehab and generally share tips.  Most people state next week's goals each week, so it becomes a rolling diary of goals and outcomes against those targets.  At the beginning of each year, there is an annual goal setting bonanza, which we review through the year.  Some of us even go climbing together!  The whole thing is to support training and results really, but it is both relaxed and somehow inspiring.  Give it a whirl 🙂

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, take it steady when you reintroduce the bouldering, easy to pull something with too much keenness too soon.

Mon. Rest.

Tues. Lats tired from Sundays antics. Went to Lees Bottom but didn't make much progress on things I've tried before. Did manage a link up I'd not done Le Totalite de le Toit du Cul du Lee (f7A+).

Wed. 8km run.

Thurs. Went to check out windy knoll cave which was great and I'll definitely go back. Did Twisting in the Rain (V6) and Degrassi Knoll (f6C).

Fri. Rest.

Sat. A morning of soloing Welsh Classic Rock. Flying Buttress (VD) then Spiral Stairs (VD) on the cromlech. Down to Carreg Wastadd to do Crackstone Rib (S 4a) and The Wrinkle (VD). Down to the car and whizz round to Ogwen for Direct Route (won't link) and Pulpit Route (VD) on Milestone buttress then it was 12.30 by the time I got back to the car and I had to be back in Sheffield for 3.30pm so left the tryfan east face routes for another day.

Sun. 16km ride with the kids. 

In reply to John Mcshea:

Hi John, welcome.

Where in Devon are you?

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hey Derek - I'm a big fan of the Mady Morrison YouTube channel. She makes no talking, no faff stretching sessions which are absolutely ideal and allows you to turn your brain off. I've been doing the full body stretch daily routine (16mins) as a staple in the morning. I do the longer sessions if I have a bit more time (usually in the evenings) - will be doing a 30 min this evening. Mady's YouTube channel certainly takes the pain out of having to come up with your own and I've definitely noticed the difference. (It's especially good for sorting out my dodgy back).

M - 80 minute board session. Antagonist work - 20,15,15 push-ups. 6 sets of shoulder exercises.

T - AM Stretch / PM 9km run and 60 min board session.

W - AM Stretch / PM BBC indoor bouldering session. Ran round the red circuit until it became a bit too warm and my skin was wearing a little thin.

T - AM Stretch / PM Core session, 2 sets of circuits, 2 x 2 min plank, 2 x 15 press-ups, 4 sets of shoulder exercises.

F - Nothing.

S - Warm up before one armed max-hangs. 5 reps on each arm with 10kg. 5min rest. 3 reps on each arm with 7.5kg. 5 min rest. 3 reps on each arm with 5kg (failed twice on the right arm).

S - Board session. Good session considering how warm it was. Mainly stuck to big moves on bigger holds. But definitely got the shoulders working. Finished the session with one set of core (circuits, plank and press-ups as above) and shoulder exercises. Then went for a run after the F1 - trying to make the most of the sun. (10k) Will be stretching before bed this evening. 

Decent week... Only thing missing was some actual climbing.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. E2??? It’s 6c+ now and takes some figuring out. I’m glad I wasn’t tradding then.

Llanymenych has trad too and it’s supposed to be top notch.

Yes PE - AnCap to be precise. The ability to string hard moves together. Not needed much for trad on sighting so I’m not too upset at my sport performance.

M - Shoulder and knee rehab at the wall - really feeling the progress now.

T - Back to chapel head scar. A couple of times up Witherslack Alice and then ticked the route I failed on on Sunday. I nearly stitched myself up again on it by getting confused at an easy bit. Overthinking it rather than just climbing. Felt very under recovered.

Looked back in my diary and we’ve climbed 6 times in the last 12 days. No wonder we were feeling a bit tired.

W - Shoulder and knee rehab

T - Rest

F - Shoulder and knee rehab and painting the house

S -  Yew Crags as it’d be shady. We’ve never been to Zorro buttress so headed there. Did all the routes (there’s only 4). HVS, E1, E1 and E2. One of the E1’s was a proper 2 star route, very traddy crack climbing and the E2 and other E1 I’d give one star.

S - Big walk up Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, High Stile, Red Pike and down for a well earned ice cream. My knees were much less sore - hooray!

This week there may be a visit to chapel head on Tuesday where I want to open my account on wargames.

This weekend will hopefully be a  

In reply to Derek Furze:

...this weekend will be a...?   Don't leave us hanging Biscuit!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Oops!

A trip to Wales. Hopefully a day of trad and a day of sport.

In reply to Derek Furze:

There was no post so im very happy and surprised to be mentioned in dispatches. Not sure what I did in week 798 but as you’ve noticed it probably involved Pen Trwyn!
M: 20 min yoga, first time for at least 7 monts, probably much longer

T: 20 min yoga

W: Joint alpine training with Tom was sacked off in favour of walking 10 meters to a short sport crag (not Pen Trwyn for once). Got a beating on routes I still think I should waltz up despite a growing body of evidence to the contrary.

T: Nowt

F: Pen Trwyn for a bit of social, got on Harry the Clamp and couldn’t link the crux section on TR

S: Big day loading and unloading van with garden waste and furniture. Felt pretty knackered by the time it finished but it meant I was unexpectedly free on  Sunday

S: Short day on Pen Trwyn with a mate I’d not seen for a good while. I struggled but managed 6 tie ins which is the sort of volume I should be doing on these trips rather than the one or two. 
 

In reply to biscuit:

Excellent - good to see that you are spreading your wings!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks again Derek.

Remember that you do not need to get up the thing your trying, just pull really hard on it 5-6 times, until you feel your loosing strength.

A hot week here, as I'm sure it has been for everyone.

M - Quick TR session on The Enchanted Gordon (E6 7a), which I was surprised to unlock and send fairly quickly.  So in the theme of "Pulling Hard" did it twice. Also Non-stick (E2 6a)

T - Nothing

W - Sport climbing day. 6a+, 6a, 6b, 7a, 6c.   Then felt I hadn't pulled hard enough so tried (and failed) to TR I'm 55 (E6 6c), but its super hard and the sun was cooking the rock (and me).

T - Nothing

F - Was going to TR in Avon again, but the heat was just too much so escaped inside of all places, as its shaded and they have fans.  Only a quick session 1.5hrs. Having not climbed indoors for a few months, I wanted to see where my fitness stands, which as it turns out, is ok.  Performing very well on anything crimpy, not so good on the big slopey modern stuff.

Auto belay: 6c, 7a+, 7b all OS

Boulders: V8 (failed) V7 (OS) V6 (OS) V6 (2nd go), V6 Slopey (failed)  2 x V5 (OS)

Sat + Sun - Too Hot

In reply to Derek Furze:

Good morning everyone! Very detailed stats Derek, great work.

I don't think it's particularly strong as it's a 19mm edge, but with the pinky crimping I don't want to go to hard and tweak my joints under huge weights. Eventually I'll have to find a smaller edge because I've only so much weight and a small space.

Cheers, it is a very fun way of training. App has loads of problems (in both meanings of the word!) and approved benchmarks. I wouldn't take the grading seriously or bother reading the comments, everything is "soft, good warm up"

I have been thinking about this and I reckon you're right to be fair. The board climbing is supplementary to strength, but primarily for power, so an extra well-placed hang sesh shouldn't leave me depleted.

All in all, a pretty low volume week from me. Quite busy in the evenings at the moment, but a good day out on Sunday was enjoyable!

Last Week:

M - Moonboard. No big sends, but managed a couple hard things in two halves: "Oh" and "Lim Nayoung Ioi". Also managed the supposed crux of "Hangboard Not Required" but the last move still eludes me. Tried end of session one armers with the strong crew (as one does) and sort of scraped one on the right side, but the left barely started. Think it's predominantly a shoulder weakness, at the left one is noisy and rather mobile!

T - Rest. Weigh in at 77.5kg.

W - Rest.

T - Intense go-karting. Not sure what energy system it targets but it was wicked fun!

F - Rest.

S - Rest.

S - The Pass. Tried Bus Stop RH (V9) but was thwarted by the crux move to gain the lip. The jam method is painful, but if I tape my knuckles I can't fit into it. Pro-jammers: is it a case of pushing through the pain or is there some technique or knack to it? The crimp method feels like it could go if I was a couple % stronger. Next up to Pieshop to play about in the sheep poo, followed by a lovely swim in Llyn Gwynant and pizza!

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Max no-hangs.

W - Rest.

T - Moonboard?

F - Rest.

S, S - Quite busy, but hopefully no-hangs and maybe a gorge session.

Goals:

Bulletproof fingers.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Another discouraging week for me.

No further symptoms from Monday onwards, but still spent the week carefully recuperating, with some stretching and rotator cuff work.

Having had no symptoms of [whatever it was] for a few days, I decided to spend another weekend on the Zugspitze, this time with a hut stay on Saturday night. Ha! Felt completely wasted after the first couple of hours, didn't even make it to the hut. Sunday back in bed.

So to summarise my last few weeks: I tried to start climbing again and my shoulder broke immediately. So I decided to get fit hillwalking while I rehabbed my shoulder, but then I got sick. Now I can't even walk up a bloody hill. Jeez.

STG: recover from mystery illness (feels suspiciously covid-like despite several negative tests) in time to attend my regular climbing partner's 50th birthday bash next weekend

In reply to Ross Barker:

Wideboyz beta for toughening up sides of fingers for jams:

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CCOZp0GHLxn/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

In reply to AlanLittle:

Sorry to hear of continuing struggles Alan.  It's not what you need at this stage of the year.  Hopefully you will be through the worst of your mystery illness in short order and can at least get some time in the big hills while the summer is still with us.  I am always amazed by the speed at which fitness comes in the Alps - a few days makes a massive difference - so all is not lost.  Tweaked my shoulder lifting 2400 x 1200 boards, so am hoping it won't interfere with plans for Wales later this week!

In reply to Steve Claw:

Impressive stuff. I know Guy was struggling with it since the undercut came off in my hand 15(?) years ago. (Thankfully on TR a few months after leading it). Have the uber-ropey pegs been replaced? I stripped the originals in a ground-fall and the replacement stuck out an alarming way considering the short length of the peg...

I found I'm 55 much easier than Enchanted Gordon; a single crimptastic move instead of the sustained moves of the latter.

Crown of Thorns (E7 6c) should be on your TR agenda once it cools down a bit - a funky toehook and then very hard rockover on a crystal dink if I recall correctly. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Back to work with a bang; an inbox straining with unread emails and a gathering field-crisis meant and I didn't leave the house until Saturday morning. So no gorge sessions this week - maybe Wednesday evening after the worst of the heat has passed?

Week 27

M – Short 1-arm deadhang session. Crimpd timings; warmed up then -13, -10, and -5kg x6 hangs on BM2K central slot. Pretty happy with that.

T – Board. 4x “7C” one I flashed (7A/+?) two took a few goes (7B+?) and the last one was a leftover from before holidays (real 7C?). Quite happy with the start of the comeback.

W – Lazy. A few sets of 10 press-ups in front of the TV.

T – Quick after work board session. Normal 4 or 5 6B+’s to warm-up, then flashed 5x Ross’s new problems 6C-7A+ (actually found the 6C “Don’t Panic” the stoutest of the lot; go figure?) Then on to aero-power 4x4. Benchmark 7A+, 7A+, 7A, 7A.

Set 1: Scraped through all problems. 4.5min rest.

Set 2: Dropped last problem. 4.5min rest.

Set 3: Dropped 3rd and last problem. 4.5min rest.

Set 4: Dropped 3rd and last problem.

Feels like a good intensity with enough beans to do the 7A+’s in each set but then fading. Darth Grader gives this combo 8b+.h (7A+ M 7A+ M 7A M 7A) which is obviously twaddle but good for the ego!

F – Tea-break lifts: 3x10 Axle DL @65kg. Basically, getting some blood moving.

S – Squiggle wrangling whilst the lady worked her final ever weekend registrar shift. Morning walk in the sun with Squigg in rucksack carrier, then squeezed in a strength focused session after lunch. Repeated “Redacted” 7B and then did it again linking into pumpy moves on jugs. “Redacted RH” (harder/proper 7B) proved beyond me in the heat (saggy core too?). Finally got spanked trying another 7B. Worked on my saggy core with kneebar intervals and took it too far and got what looks like carpet rash on my knees!

S – Wrangling again. Morning and afternoon walks. Brief bench-press session 5x5@55kg. Hard. Even briefer core session; 5x20 lying leg raises in the sun.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi all, hope you're surviving the heat. Thanks again for statting, Derek -the effort is much appreciated.

Talking of effort -it looks like I lost motivation half way through writing up last week -I'd changed the second half of the week, but left the first half of the previous week in! Sadly, this doesn't cut out any excitement, as I didn't do much Mon-Weds -some desultory prehab and a TRS/cleaning session at Egerton.

Week 27:

M: Alpine start/finish for work.

T: Alpine start/finish for work. 

W: Bouldering at RAC -got first traverse and corner turn on Pump Traverse (V4) but couldn't get the final traverse done. Sport at Panmaen Head -climbed terribly, but I guess all climbing is training for something, right?

T: Trail Run. 12.7km, 404m vert, 6:44/km.

F: Sport at Kilnsey. Back on Allakazam (6c) -thought I may get it this session, but climbed terribly -couldn't remember a single move from two weeks ago and took three goes to get them back in my head, at which point I was knackered. Also felt quite nervous going above bolts. Not sure why.

S: Fingerboard -slightly useless session as I couldn't find anywhere good to hang the portable board so ended up hanging almost in an L-sit, so more limited by my core than fingers!

S: Trail run. 10.4km, 211m vert, 6:43/km.

Week 28:

Aim to get two runs, two fingerboard sessions and one bouldering session in.

STG -end Sept:

Climb at four of my 'climb here more' crags.

Climb six of my local to-do list.

Allakazam.

Ultra distance run. 

Three of my big mountain day list.

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees). 

(Have pushed my alps trip back, so this remains an MTG.)

MTG -end Dec:

Two big alpine routes.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 2/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

At least two big, classic alpine goals.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Cheers Derek,

It really has been a slow week exercise wise, life has most defiantly got in the way. Early in the week my daughter had surgery for endometriosis. She was in for day surgery but still a general anaesthetic. Thankfully it all went well and they were able to remove unwanted tissue. Obviously caring for her took up the early part of the week. 

Thursday was a day out at Rutland Water with my old academic lead and latterly  head of department. He had retired early in the year and invited lots of folk from his lab over to for a celebration. during the afternoon we all went for a nice walk along the shore and then a few of us went for a swim too. Not a big distance but nice to scope it out for the Swim Rutland event. We ate and drank well into the night reminiscing about what we got up to many years ago 

The weekend was a quiet one taking kids to sporting activities and working in the garden as well as building a rope swing for the youngest. Haply eldest daughter is recovering well so all is good.

In reply to Tyler:

We'll be down in Wales Friday/Saturday. I am not sure which day will be sport but we'll be heading to wherever is shady probably near Llandudno if you would like to join us.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for the impressively detailed stats Derek. Agreed it's easy to overlook some greta lines in the CLwyd when I've got High Tor and Chee Tor just as close! 

Thankfully I managed to team up with a mate for his first experience of sea cliff climbing on Sunday and introduced him to the delights of Gogarth. It was a stunning day out and we had Wen Zawn all to ourselves! 

Last week:

M - 30k on the bike

T - 10 problems on the woody (6B; 6B+; 6B+; 6B+; 6C; 6C; 6C+; 7A; 7A; 7A+)

W - Rest

T - Anaerobic power session on the circuit board

F - Rest

S - A sunny 60k hilly loop on the bike

S - Headed to Gogarth and finally ticked off A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c), which really does live up to the hype! We had Wen Zawn to ourselves in 25 degree heat - a belter of a day

Plan for next week:

M/T - Rest (& try not to melt!)

W - Woody problems

T - Rest

F - Bike Ride

S/S - tempted to head to Hodge close for some DWS assuming its another scorcher of a weekend

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for the stats Derek. I am still suprised with the one-armer progress. I've put a lot of focus on these last autumn and did not got much results. So the progression after just doing bodyweight pullups really suprises me. Thanks for the remark about not pushing rest times too far to avoid injury, i will definately consider that

Recap last week:

Mon: Fingerboard repeaters at a 20mm edge, 6x 6x7,3 at 102 % bodyweight, 4x10 Pullups with 2 min rest

Tues: L-Sit 2x15s; handstand against the wall, 2x10 pike pushups,15 lunges, 3 pistal squat with left and right, 30 pushups and 30s V-Sit Up; 

Wed: Fingerboard repeaters at a 20mm edge, 6x 6x7,3 at 100 % bodyweight, 4x10 Pullups with 2 min rest, felt tired already on the warmup and reduced load on the repeaters a little bit, which was definately a good decision

Thurs: L-Sit 2x15s; handstand against the wall, 2x10 pike pushups,15 lunges, 3 pistal squat with left and right, 30 pushups and 30s V-Sit Up; 

Fri: Rest

Sat: Another Climbing session at a local gym. Conditions felt better (only 30° this time, which starts to feel cool ) and i had much more power than last session. Quickly sent the two problems, that were left over from last session. Set another 6c and sent it quickly and then worked out the moves on a 6c/6c+, but did not have enough left in the tank to sent it. Finished the session with 4x12 Pullups with 3 min P which is a altime personal best (closest that i got with sets of 12s before was 3x12)

Sun: L-Sit 2x20s; handstand against the wall, 2x10 pike pushups,12 lunges, 3 pistol squat with left and right, 30 pushups and 30s V-Sit Up; Afterwards, finally did some sight seeing and visited the temples of Mamallapuram (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mamallapuram), which is a 90 minutes drive away from Chennai. Found some great looking boulder with some amazing lines, but i doubt that you make yourself probably if you bring a crash pad to a Unesco World Heritage site . But on a more serious note, i am convinced that there must be some potential for decent bouldering. You would just need some and a motivated crew to develop it

Review last weeks goals:

• Sleep: Get more sleep, at least 7 hours on average per day which will be challenging  -> Check, did not got 7 hours every night but managed it on average
• Keep relative effort level in the training session at 7-8 on  a 1 to 10 scale, so that i don't completely wreck myself but also don't keep it too easy -> Check, dialed intensity back when feeling tired, quite happy with that one, also did not completely destroy myself during the bouldering session
• Sent the two remaining boulders from saturday's session -> Check

Another decent week and despite the travel stress i feel that i making gains in many areas. Next week i will stay for 4 more in India before i travel back to Munich on thursday. Hope that i get enough sleep on the plane to be in shape for some outdoor climbing on the weekend

Goals for next week:

I will try to attack two of my goals for this year for the fitclub anniversary:

• Onsight 7a
• Hold a handstand with good form for 10s

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks.

The pegs in Enchanted Gordon look newish, but the placement on the lower one isn't great.  Couldn't see where the mentioned undercut was, so not sure what beta was used before. I found it long moves on small crimps, which suits me. The crux being a chest height right foot off to the right, lots of tension and a snatch for the big pocket. Would make a good photo.

I am 55, looks like 1 super hard move low down involving a hard lock off on a small crimp. It really wasn't the conditions to be trying it that day.

Crown of Thorns is next on the list, I'm essentially working through them all.

In reply to Derek Furze:

thanks as ever Derek!

A difficult week with microAJM off nursery all week pretty much and miniAJM also ill Friday. Difficult to plan ahead and therefore some poor scheduling towards the end of the week. I got some stuff done though so that’s better than nothing. I’ve now got miniAJM on my own all week which will be easier in some ways but also restricts some options like evening climbing sessions.

 Monday - achey, rest. MicroAJM unwell and unable to go to nursery, which rather put the whole weeks plans into disarray!

Tuesday - busy day juggling work and childcare with no time for anything more.

Wednesday - shockingly early start for an 8am meeting in London. Bit wiped out by the end of the day but I did 2x10 pull ups and 2x10 chin-ups so that at least something had been done.

Thursday - rest in anticipation of taking microAJM out somewhere quiet Friday.

Friday - miniAJM also ill. All bets off! I had already booked the day off so that MrsAJM could catch up on the work she wasn’t able to do whilst I was in London, so whilst I wasn’t able to get outside at least I wasn’t trying to juggle work as well. 

- I did 1-on-1-off on the circuit board, which got the blood flowing. Probably need to have a think about something more intense as well though, to hit the shorter end of PE.

- I then took microAJM out round the park, which included a stop at the dip bars where I did 10,9,10 dips.

- In the evening I did some chin-ups - set of 10@bw+5, 8@bw+10, 7@bw+10

Saturday - took microAJM out for the afternoon to new cuttings. Achey from the previous day, but the crag was in the shade at least. Best seen as a training rather than a performance session though! I barely tickled the hold on Bez direct at all, and have acquired an enormous bruise on my right knee in the process. If I’d known I was going to be outside I might have rested on Friday, but it’s been a week of last minute decisions and difficulties planning ahead, it is what it is…

Sunday - family faff day at Lulworth. Basically did some usual warmups, didn’t really manage to try anything hard, but the family all enjoyed the water, got miniAJM floating with a rubber ring, MrsAJM went swimming and we finished it off with ice cream so everyone had a good time.

In reply to Ally Smith:

dangerously close to training porn Ally...

In reply to Derek Furze:

Just got the official time through and we did 102 miles in 22 hours 54 mins 28 seconds

Really happy with that as we had plenty of juniors running in the daytime legs 😊

In reply to Derek Furze:

Good to see some work with the weights making a regular appearance.

Thanks also for offering to help out with my Wales trip.  At one point, my partner was looking for someone for Monday and I was going to put you in touch, but he sorted it from within our group before I reached home.

-------

Hi all. Thanks for running the thread, Derek, and for taking the time to give such detailed responses.

Cheers for that advice. It makes perfect sense and is more or less what I tried to achieve during last week's outings. It wasn't easy, mind - my instinct is to always push hard and I really have to concentrate to slow my pace/HR down.

Here are three screenshots covering various data from one of last week's outings. It's a route I've done a few times but this time I walked it all instead of trotting the descent. I didn't quite manage to stretch it out to 3hrs - perhaps a bit steadier on the way up next time - but there's definitely progress with my HR.

Route overview:
https://i.postimg.cc/5tFrb93p/Screenshot-20220710-170600.png

HR/elevation graph:
https://i.postimg.cc/zvDpbqns/Screenshot-20220710-170356.png

HR Zone data:
https://i.postimg.cc/Rhr6yd0X/Screenshot-20220710-170440.png

On to the week's summary:

Mon: 5 miler, local hilly crosscountry circuit, 22lb pack.

Tue: 13kg dumb bells: 3x10 shoulder press. 3x10 arm curls. 21kg dumb bells: 3x10 bent over rows.

Weds: 8.25 miler up to far side of Llyn Anafon and back, 15lb pack. Data in screenshots above.

Thurs: 13kg dumb bells: 3x10 shoulder press. 3x10 arm curls. 21kg dumb bells: 3x10 bent over rows.

Fri: 5 miler, local hilly crosscountry circuit, 22lb pack.

Sat: rest.

Sun: rest.

Had a cracking 3hr outing yesterday. Definitely not the coldest day of the year and I lost my pace/HR discipline but chuffed to bits to clear over 10 miles, 650m ascent. More details in next week's update.

All the best with your goals, folks. Thanks for the advice and motivation. Cheers

In reply to Steve Claw:

South Hams, East Portlemouth to be precise. You're Devon?

In reply to John Mcshea

Its nice down there.

I'm in Bristol.