UKC

Late again!  Should be up first thing in the morning - possibly late tonight...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_802-750301

Ross Barker:  Yes – the football was a great result.  I missed extra time though, so lost out on some of the excitement.

Feeling strong on the Moonboard has to be worth applauding!  I’m not sure you are a regular board user (?) as most of what you report is n0-hangs and bouldering, but good work anyway. 

Fantastic to see you out with a rope, though less so if you feel like you have been driven to it by the lack of available partners for your chosen discipline.  I guess there is plenty of scope for bouldering with a rope in the UK anyway, as quite a lot of sport routes have that character in some parts of the country.  Surely you can find some inspiring stuff at Llangollen at those grades?

Great to see that you were keen enough to jump the gun!

Alan:  There are other ways of working out your zone 2 threshold using your age, which I think is useful to validate the levels that you choose to set.  Most of them work on a percentage of 180 - your age, but the more complex ones take other factors into account.

I really like the hill walking experiment which reflects my own experience.  Oddly enough, I don’t think that much time is lost when using this approach either, as you don’t need to stop to recover, or find time to change t-shirts or whatever.  Somehow, if I walk up a hill without heaving I feel stronger somehow, even though I know it has been achieved by going slow.  Pace will rise over time as endurance builds – paradoxically much quicker than by using the usual lung-bursting efforts, so the ‘comically slow’ effect that you noted will eventually disappear as well.

Intrigued to know if you have noticed weight loss from the fat-burning approach as well.

Ally:  I think the gorge isn’t a particularly good winter venue (?) as I seem to remember something about drainage.  Just think that winter is the time for any cleaning effort needed.

Interesting stuff on the assisted one-armers, which a few people are using.  I might have a look at this over winter as a new stress for training, though it might need a re-think about the whole of my (limited) set-up!  I do find that really intense loads (like weighted pull-ups seem to attack my elbows fairly quickly, so I would be careful as well.  In any case, the numbers remain impressive, definitely providing inspiration (and awe) in equal measure.  Good work on the board session and with the working of problems late in the week _ I will have to look up where these muscles actually are and what they do!  I predicted sore shoulders before I read it, so I was in the ball park!

Steve Claw:  A great suggestion  re bunging the TR set up in the car and so obvious really!  Not sure whether I can get much done in a suit, but the principle is good!

Brilliant stuff to be completing so many new routes and it looks like the Mendips is coming good after years of threatening something.  It sounds like crag x is now fully worked out, so on to the next one!

Looks like a good session on your Wild West thing and it sounds as if you are getting close.  That said, placing the gear is probably a different ball game, but you almost have the moves sorted in a continuous go.  Clearly pulling hard as Friday’s soreness indicates!

SSB: For a family on holiday, there is some excellent levels of exercise happening!  It is a long while ago, but we used to do quite a lot with the kids as well – I remember sessions at Wirksworth centre that included badminton, climbing wall and gym stuff all with the kids.  We would then usually go for a walk on the way back to Chesterfield, so something similar to your routines.  I don’t think we ever did any separate adult exercise on holidays though so hats off for being organised enough to fit it in!

Hope that you have fun in Font, certainly somewhere my kids used to love visiting.  Great for mixed ability circuits, so plenty of opportunity to do decent stuff while the kids are following their own circuits around. 

Randy:  You’ll be delighted to know that I messed about with handstands this week while away with family in Wales.  I think the last ones I did were in Crete in 1997 or so.  They seem harder somehow!  Good fun though.

Those lock offs are going well, though the Kilterboard stuff seems really tough.  I don’t have any useful information for comparison, but you will possibly get some responses from others.  I haven’t even heard of a Kilterboard, but if it is harder than a Moon board then I already don’t want to know more!  Anyway, if it makes you feel weak, then it is probably doing you good.  A lot of it will be adjustment to a new stimulus surely?  Good to do some weighted pull ups and a reasonable weight to kick things off – not too heavy to start.

India again!  Have a productive trip.

Good reflections on training loads and your current position in life.  It is worth taking account of where things are at, particularly as training cycles can be relatively short, so easy to bring back on when things relax.  Some kind of maintenance is always useful, otherwise stepping back on feels really hard, but maximum stress may not be worth pursuing in the midst of work pressures.  In the end, got to go with what you feel.

Tom Green:  Tom – I said ‘entertained by’, not ‘liked’ 😊.  As a Desert Island list of E4s it included many routes no-one would recognise!  Still, some of them are pretty striking when you see them up close (which most people don’t!).

A quiet week for you, but the run sounds great.  I do think there is something about coastal running – certainly I love it in Pembroke whenever I visit.  Good effort on Pump Traverse – presumably the clue is in the title?

You’ve pushed back the alpine trip – how far?  Is it still a 2022 goal or has it been shelved for the year?  It does sound like conditions are really thin anyway, with lots of stuff classified as unjustifiably dangerous at the moment.  Chance to focus on your more local goals?

SteveJC94:  Clearly a theme this week with many of the group in full holiday mode and therefore pretty light on training.  Good testing numbers though on half crimp and a reminder that I haven’t done any tests myself recently (mind you, I’ve hardly done anything!).  Last time, I was at very similar levels and I’d be pleased if I was close now.

Some good work on the board as ever with a good set of five problems achieved, so although ‘light’ it certainly looks like a standard is being maintained.

There is a lot at Kangaroo Point and it is floodlit at night.  Perfect convenience climbing!

Sheep:  That explains the lack of swimming while you were away – I was shocked when I saw a week without kms of swimming!  Good to see that you are back to it with a vengeance, with almost 10km over the week, alongside plenty of running and stretching as well.  You’re right, bring out the bike and you’ll look like a triathlete before long.

I think couch to 5k is a good, steady approach that works really well for people getting into running.  My only comment is that 5km in thirty minutes at the end is quite a challenge for a lot of people, particularly if they are a bit older.  I know plenty of regular runners, doing 5km three times a week, who still don’t do 6 minute kms.

JayK :  A brilliant start to your trip - a genuine alpine start after a mega-day of travel and not surprised that you were absolutely dead on return to base.

An impressive week of lead in to the trip with plenty of varied training – clearly had some goals in mind so wanted to keep pushing all the way to the trip.  Good to see that you maintain the stretching discipline, even at the end of a very long day.  I rarely warm down, but it strikes me as useful and probably works to prevent cramp.  A full range in the training mix, including everything from one arm hangs to core, press ups and shoulder work to go with the staple sessions on the boards.  Great variety – I hope it deliver for you on the trip.

AJM:  Interesting discussion on the sport / trad grades and switchover.  I agree with you really.  I’m pretty sure for older climbers around when sport stuff first arrived, we tended to climb sport routes like trad – onsighting as a rule.  I think that probably explains why the levels are quite close – it really is ‘poor at sport climbing’ (‘not being at their sport limit’ as you put it) rather than good at trad.  I had intended to address this ‘gap’ this year, but really haven’t done that much all round because of work and other stuff.  Still, there is always the intent as Autumn rolls around.

Good work on the clips and climb circuit and the wall sessions generally, though plans continue to be upset by illness.  Hopefully, the family will be through this soon as it has impacted plans for a while now.  Anyway, on the bright side you got to explore a different wall, which always helps, especially when you get a decent session in!  All helps with the preparation for your trip.

Biscuit:  Busy period is probably going to get worse going into Autumn, though I can put some limits on it if needed.  NHS England are extending the work that I do to a ‘lot’ more practices from October, so we will see how that develops.  The frustration is that weather doesn’t always coincide with days off, but I think I will try to use indoor facilities more seriously if that happens.

Great that your trad ambitions remain undimmed and interesting that you feel ‘sharper’ after a bit of focused training.  Reading your week, it clearly contains more stuff that one would expect to see during winter, so well done for turning your commitment into action.  The fingerboard test looks pretty strong and the pull ups are also fairly decent, so it is interesting that you previously felt as if you struggled with things that were steep – possibly not lacking in the basics, but just unfamiliar?

Chapel Head looks like a working session and ultimately slightly frustrating (?), but the trip up to the Napes looks brilliant, with everything required for a memorable day!

Tyler:  Yes, I sometimes get a bit shocked when I check back on my last visit to some places that were regular haunts.  Some of it is a sense of having done ‘everything’ (though there are always things left), but some is also about not quite being at the required standard these days!  Still, things to aim for!

Hope the yoga was on the banks of some mountain stream and uploaded to Insta.  Similarly with a go-pro stream of the mountain biking stuff!

No mention of alpine training this week, though everything on the report looks quite similar to the previous dedicated alpine training sessions…  That said, a good return visit to Pen Trywn and a decent session at Notice Board Crag.  The comments on Fiendish Beandish make it sound a bit scary for a sport route, with good people extending clips and so on.  The walk looks perfect for Alps training and a shame that your joints suffered!

Liam P:  Yes, some of the things you can do on a hangboard are not the most enthralling training options.  I did try moving hangs once, but found it really limited in appeal.

The session reported look pretty comprehensive with a broad range of stimulus, so well done for keeping it serious despite the challenges putting it into practice.  A return to the campus board and some strong results immediately, so the basic strength / power is there.  The weighted pull ups are becoming a bit of a feature for a few on here (certainly Randy has the in the mix), but your numbers are still impressive.  I’m fairly sure I wouldn’t be able to do any block in your sequence. Though it isn’t something I have worked much in the past.  How do you add the weight anyway – I just load a rucksack, which doesn’t feel very ergonomic when I am up above 25 kg anyway.

Hope Mr Choo Choo works out.

Ger_the_Gog:  After a frantic week of extra reports last week, you obviously needed a rest!  Hope to see you back soon!

Family stuff this week for me so no climbing or training!  I've got another week off so hope to redress this week to some extent.

Did do a nice walk to Llyn Crafnant on Saturday with the grandchildren in tow.

Pre holiday faff week this week. Light on training, trying to make sure the skin is in reasonable state and obviously trying to get everything packed. Expecting to do a couple of short sessions on the portable fingerboard this week before we travel. 

Weather in frankenjura looks very hot so need to go back through the crag hit list to ensure they are all north facing and as exposed to the breeze as possible!

Monday - rest and holiday faff

Tuesday - ditto, plus about 40m walk after dropping the car off for service

Wednesday - holiday faff and general admin. 3x10 chin-ups @bw+5

Thursday - same 40m walk to re-collect car. After work, the wall with miniAJM where I had a decent session doing/attempting the green circuit, which is on their steeper circuit board and is 31 moves. Did this with a rope loop and clips for specificity. Good session although circuits in the heat do have a habit of exacerbating skin wear in particular places.

Friday-Sunday - rest and packing. Drove to parents house Sunday pm.

Thanks Derek

I actually did some proper Uphill Athlete aerobic threshold tests as part of my lockdown box-stepping programme, so I know fairly accurately where my top end of Zone 2 is (or was two years ago) And it turns out to be almost exactly 180 minus my age, so perhaps I needn't have bothered with the testing!

STG: Get my shoulders working again
MTG: Autumn Kalymnos trip with my son, shoulders permitting
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

I am doing a "part time" course for work whose part time nature is rapdily diminishing as it goes into its final month. But as it still supposed to be part time I also still have actual work to do, which means training time during the week has been severely limited, and will continue to be so for the next couple of weeks.

M:    Rest day after yesterday's long Zone 2 day on the hill
T:    "part time" course work until late in the evening
W:    ditto
T:    Bike 2 hours - tolerable temperatures in the shade in the woods
F:    
S: Wall, Weyarn. Short autobelay sesson mainly to assess the condition of my shoulder. Seems promisingly ok, did nine routes up to 6c but mostly easier. Despite lower temperatures the humidity was still like climbing in a sauna, and my endurance is, as we say over here, "in the bucket". No surprises there, and I know what I have to do to get it back.

S: Slow Hillwalking Programme Week Two. Set off on a damp, overcast morning with a forecast of cloud lifting in the afternoon, in which case the plan was to solo the Musterstein Westgrat (III), another new-to-me section of the Wetterstein/Zugspitze horseshoe(*). But noon came and went without the slightest sign of any clouds lifting, so I walked up the Gehrenspitze as Plan B. Not very interesting plodding uphill on a footpath with no views, but at least I got my (non-junk) miles and vert metres in.

Keeping myself below 400 vert metres/hr for the first hour or two, which is around my aerobic threshold pace on the industry standard alpine footpath, takes a bit of self discipline but definitely results in me feeling better for the rest of the day.

 (*) still not a goal!

Good morning everyone, cheers for the statting as usual Derek. Had a big impromptu weekend trip to Dorset, sampling the DWS. Thanks to AJM for providing remote beta where possible!

That was the main driver but don't get me wrong, I did quite enjoy it and reckon I'll continue to do it a little more alongside bouldering.

Yeah, I've heard there's some good stuff around Dinbren, so might be worth me having a look there at some point.

Last Week:

M - Weigh-in at 78.2kg.

T - Moonboard. Very warm, but decent session all things considered. Two new ones: Accident Prone, Hero Cut. I think they're both quite fun!

W - Rest.

T - Rest.

F - Portland DWS. Started with Temporary Lifestyle (HS 4b), ended up at Red Crane doing a bunch of thin vert things above perfect water.

S - Started the day by realising a shoe went missing on the walk back yesterday, resulting in my annual cardio of running around the island. Eventually found it, off to Lulworth! Three goes on Horny Lil' Devil (7a), culminating in falling on the easy bit before the top because I got bored of resting in the kneebar. Bloody boulderer brain! Forgot my approach shoes on the prep ledge and had to swim back but got awful calf cramp, so limped back and sent a mate to retrieve them for me. Probably a result of being a bit dehydrated and running around this morning?

S - Portland DWS again. Repeated Temporary Lifestyle but with a lower steep sequence. Then back to Red Crane for a bit of a mooch before the long drive back.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Rest.

T - Max no-hangs.

F - Rest.

S, S - Avoiding the heat!

Goals:

Bulletproof fingers. Been slacking a bit on this recently but want to get back on top of it!

Thanks again for your admirable stats effort.

Week 31

M – Board session. Repeated Ross’ excellent “Clock n’ load” 7A 2nd go. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CgwZBbcjL57/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Did crux of an “8A+” in isolation for first time and then did it from the floor! Punted the unwind/exit and didn’t try again as skin was feeling thin on pinky, which gets crammed into B3 pocket on the crux.

1-arm dead-hangs. Crimpd timings; warmed up then -14, -9, and -4kg x6 hangs on BM2K central slot. Felt fairly hard but completed the lot on LH. RH had a few 8 & 9s hangs.

T – 33kg Rolling Thunder lifts. 7/3/6/3 x4 on each hand. Consciously avoiding pinching and working wrist flexor hard – good pump.

5x5 bench press 57kg. Another week at this weight then creep back up to 60kg?

W – External rotator conditioning. 5x5 hard symmetrical band lift thingies. 1x10 face-pulls with same band (got distracted and didn’t finish off the remaining sets).

T – Warmed up with a dozen board problems 6B+ to 7A+ then started some serious attempts at the “8A+” “Where’s the Sunshine”. 4th go from the floor I held the unwind but dabbed the sidewall and dropped off. 5th go was the charm. It’s probably “SOFT” (!?!?) and more like 7C/+? Chuffed though – certainly one of the harder Moonboard problems I’ve done. https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cg2RtpVjkqy/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I then tried 2 potential 8A benchmarks, both of which are very very hard, but don’t feel like they’re impossible. In for the long haul here though me thinks...

F – Rest

S – More rest. Farm visit and walk through Tatton with Squiggle.

S – Walked into Devil’s gorge with one of everything. Pads – tick. Ladder – tick. Fan – Tick. Rope – tick. Ended up only using the last item as cadged a belay from Mick. 3 tie-ins scoping out and redpointing a righthand exit to the new 7c I did 6 wks ago. Persephone (7c+) (paired with the neighbouring route Hades) has a stretched out crux with two knees: I couldn’t think of something that suits me better ;-D 7c+. Walk back up the hill with all the clobber was a right thigh burner!

I would not say that it is generally harder, the grading just seem to be off. The holds are definately not as sharp as on the moonboard, e.g. you don't find some nasty crimps and you can define also foot holds, so it feels more like real climbing. Another big difference is that you can adjust the angles. As far as i understood the App, it could take a 5c problem at 25° and then try to come up with an educated guess how hard it is at 50°, which is of course way off in one or the other direction. Interestingly, in the 7b/7c range that my friend was trying (which was the only reason why the board was at such a ridiciously steep angle ) it seemed to be correct.

Recap last week:

Mon- Tues: Rest after being tired from the travel

Wed: Short Repeater Session, 20mm edge, 3x6x7,3. Started with 95% BW in the first set, 97,5% on the second and 100% bodyweight on the last set. Finished with 3x8 weighted Pullups + 8 kg. Despite the 3 rest (or rather non-training) days i felt tired and without any power.

Thurs- Fri: Rest

Sat:  Bouldering Session at local gym. Defined and climbed one boulder in the 6c range at the spray wall and got close on a 6c. Finished the session with weigted pullups + 8kg: 3x10,9 (got close on the last set). Definately felt much better, so the two rest days really payed off.

Sun: L-Sit 2x20s; handstand against the wall, 2x12 pike pushups,15 lunges, 3 pistol squats with each leg, 30 pushups and 45s V-Sit Up; not feeling 100% recovered, maybe also a little bit tired after we did city sightseeing in 32° and humid weather the whole Saturday afternoon. Active recovery in the afternoon with another city walking tour, including riding in a local bus and train without any doors Felt a little bit knackered and dehydrated afterwards, but definately a fun adventure

Review last weeks goals: 

• Get at least 7 hours sleep on average per night - Fail, too much stress at work and struggle with jetlag. 
• Adjust training load to the general stress that i currently have in my life. - Check Was tired and did not do much which was definately a good idea

Goals next week: 

• Get at least 7 hours sleep on average per night
• Stay healthy

All in all a much needed rest week with little volume and i am happy that i listened to my body instead of pushing through, which is usually my instinct. I will probably increase the load in the first part of next week back to normal and then i need to see how i feel after traveling back to Germany on thursday night.

I would happy to give some recommendations if you tell me what exactly you are looking for (grade range, ease of approach, style, etc.) and where exactly you are staying.

Just checking in, double post next week from me.

We are staying in goßweinstein, basically. Small children in tow but with kiddie bikes and rucksacks and so on I am hoping that shouldn't be too much of a challenge in terms of approaches.

We have spent a reasonable amount of time in FJ back in 2014, but my friend has never been before. I'm guessing that mid-6s to mid-7s (French not uiaa) is the sweet spot. In terms of things I already had in mind as being shady and of interest:

- Sautanz (7b+) I have tried briefly before and would like to give another go

-  Püttlachtaler Wand has a bunch of things of interest

-  Stadeltenne is further away but has a reputation for catching a breeze?

- New Dimensions (XI-) - I did Computerspiele (VIII) which I found quite hard but on the other hand it's the obvious step up at that crag which is shady and very easy access

- I'm keen to try Hitchhike the Plane (7c+) again, that's my unfinished business from 2014. Mind you, it's shady but might be quite still in the forest?

- I never went to  Andeltodrom which looks good. Ditto  Heldwand.

Very interested in other suggestions, thanks!

Thank you Derek.

Nothing to report this week as been away on holiday with the family.

Anyone done the big 6km orange mountain circuit at franchard cuisinere and have any advice? I've got approach shoes and plenty of water packed but I'm most concerned about getting lost, is it well painted? Cheers. 

Thanks Derek, Insightful as ever.

I have strong fingers but am weak as a kitten with pulling. If I hit a hold I'll hang it. It's getting to the holds that I struggle with.

M - Stretch

shoulder rehab

legs (50kg zercher squats)

5x5 pulls on the minute

aero cap - 6c circuit (horribly pumpy rounded pinches) 1:1.5. Did 3 and then got interrupted with a long phone call.

Run - 30 mins - hot!

T - Stretch

Kendal wall - auto belay warm up then 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6c+ on main wall. Got pumped on the routes but recovered quickly. 

W - Shoulder rehab

Pulls - 5x5 + 5kgs

Ankle rehab

T - Rest day

F - Boulder at Back Bowden Doors. Didn't have trad kit with me but there's some amazing routes to go back for.

S - Boulder and trad at Kyloe Crag. What a great place. Did a couple of 6C's, failed to get off the ground on a 7A and led Spacewalk (E2 5c). Not sure on the grade. It's very bold so E2 5c doesn't seem to fit. I am not sure there were 5c moves on it, but my second thought it was hard. I fancied the direct start (E3 6a), which is a totally different route where it matters, but we had to go home.

We are heading back to Northumberland for sure. I can't believe I've been climbing for over 25 years and never been.

S - Local walk up a decent sized hill quite fast as 'active rest' because Rachel doesn't do rest days!

A good week. I have half an eye on the fact that this coming week I am away with my children for a few days. So I'm training hard with 4 days off to cash it in.

I really need to get on E3's now. Plans are being made for next week.

• Püttlachtaler Wand is definately worth a visit, though i am not sure how much wind it gets. The crag is directly at a crowded hiking trail and generally popular, so i suggest to visit it during the week.
• Stadeltenne is definately worth a visit in warm conditions. The crag is on the top on the hill and gets a lot of wind (i was freezing there a little bit once, when temperatur in the valley was 25 degrees), and has some good routes (Stadeltenne (6c+), Massarbeit (7b+), Alltag in Franken (6c))
• Not sure how much sun the Hitchhike the Plane (7c+) gets, but the Krottensee Forest is generally a little bit cooler as it on the top of a a large hill (usually in autumn it is a couple of degrees cooler than the valey but i've been there in august). So i can imagine that the conditions should be decent unless it is not above 30°
• Trockauer Wand and  Weidener Wand are both north facing and have some decent routes in your grade range including the classicMars Attacks (7b+). They are close to  Püttlachtaler Wand, but a little bit more hidden in the forest and quiet.
• Amphitheater has also some decent routes in the 6c to 7b range, but as far as i remember it does not get that much wind
• In case it gets really hot i suggest you check out  Illafels. It is a north facing cave, that is usually always a couple of degrees cooler than the rest of the Frankenjura. Unfortunately, not that many routes but it has one good 7a Warmduscher (VIII), a 7b+ (Lutscher (IX-)) and a classic 7c+ Ringbandschoner (IX+) 

I hope this helps a little bit and that you will have a great trip.

Thanks!

Vierte (4th) Dimension might be another one to look at in the Krottenseer - north facing, shady and a very short approach. Can't speak from personal experience of the routes though - it was soaking wet the one time I walked by for a look at it.

It's also just across the road from Action Directe, although I assume AJM probably already stood underneath that and gawped up in amazement on his previous visit

I’ve done a few things at vierte, although I have a load left and probably many of the better ones (if the ukc starring aligns with the guide, at least). I have gone to stare at Action Directe - Melissa le Neve was trying it - and I also tried Slimline although I made no real impression on it - at the end of a long road trip with no bouldering the right route to try “the next step up” out for sIze is probably not a short fierce number!

Yeah my training, such as it is, is very perpipatetic and is governed by what hurts least on any given day. The idea of doing anything alpine seems a bit fanciful and my training for it is a bit of standing joke with Mrs T really. 

This week was pretty poor. I had one climbing session where I went sharply backwards and managed three very short runs which went ok except my hip started playing up after the third. I did splash about in the sea n Pembroke as we had a family ‘do’ but it wasn’t enough to stave off the weight gain from all the eating. 
Sadly, I’m not sure that this week will be any better. 

Thanks for the detailed set of stats Derek. Late to the game this week as I’ve been on a boat with no signal for the past three days. 
I was fairly happy with the numbers, given that I’ve not done any serious hangboarding since my pulley injury. Here’s hoping I’ll return from the holidays with similar numbers! 
 

A very light week for me with no climbing, but plenty of swimming, diving and surfing to give me a good workout. Planning for more of the same next week. 

Thanks for the epic stats again Derek, campsite WiFi back up and running so I can post after all.

Mon. 6km run.

Tues. 30km cycle, first half slow with all the family then second half fast on my own to get the car and pick everyone up.

Wed. 800m swim

Thurs. 5km run and 9km kayak.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Travel day for fontainebleau then evening session at isatis, did the first 31 problems on the red circuit (4 falls).

Sun. Took the kids to Feuillardiere and did the pink hearts kids circuit in my flip flops with 4 kids and the first half of the kids white circuit too. Nipped off and did Coup de Tonerre (assis) (f7A+) in a few goes.

Touche! 

Yeah, hearing about cons out there I'm not too disappointed with cancelling it for now. I'm working out in Slovenia in Oct, so planning on taking the opportunity to get a bit of time in the Julian alps. Hopefully weather and cons play ball. In the meantime, just need to keep building that Z2 capacity so I'm ready for anything! And take advantage of the drought to get some of my UK goals.

Week 31:

A week of work, work and more work. A lot of alpine starts and finishes and very little opportunity for anything else.

M: Nowt.

T: Shoulder prehab.

W: Trail run. Exploring a different bit of coastline between Penally and Manorbier. 19.2km, 460m vert, 7:26/km. Pace reflects a lot of pausing to check out crags!

T: Shoulder prehab.

F: Shoulder prehab.

S: Nowt. 

S: Nowt.

Week 32:

Prehab at least five days -no excuses.

Two runs.

One fingerboard session -need to get back on this.

Three days climbing.

STG -end Sept:

Climb at four of my 'climb here more' crags (3/4).

Climb six of my local to-do list.

Allakazam.

Ultra distance run. 

Three of my big mountain day list.

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees). 

MTG -end Dec:

Two big alpine routes.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 3/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 2/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

At least two big, classic alpine goals.

Very last minute entry, been a very busy week!

Monday, 2k swim, 6k evening run

Tuesday, pushed for time, just a 0.5km swim

Wednesday, 2k swim

Thursday, 1k swim and stretch

Friday, 2k swim

Saturday, 6k run

Sunday, rest

That's ok.  Have you noticed that I've been getting later and later!

Ditto last minute entry!

Will take this week as a ‘rest week’ as didn’t get much done. Need to look at sleep/diet as my forearms didn’t feel recovered from last Sunday. Got a trip out at the weekend but it was 30c+ and definitely not conducive to limestone crimping at my redpoint limit!

Sun

Another trip to Dancing Ledge to try Mr Choo Choo. Couple of warm up routes then jumped on for a RP go. Got one move higher from ground up but hand popped straight off the crux crimp. Far too hot so went swimming instead!