UKC

Last summer mountaineering trip to Chamonix was 12 years ago. Going there on solo trip first two weeks September, now aged 77, still very happy on exposed rugged terrain and dry glaciers but about 1000m of ascent is quite enough. Want to be in the mountains, revisit huts and spend the night there. Comments on going (solo) to Leschaux and Argentiere huts welcomed. What's the score on getting onto the Mer de Glace nowadays. Any ideas on peaks, happy to solo PD+ rock. Will have crampons, ice axe.

Hi John,

interested in replies to your post too. My climbing partner and I are heading out in a couple of weeks but he has an injury which will prevent him carrying a heavy bag or doing long days. Maybe just as well given current conditions! 

Just been looking at options and we are possibly looking at the Aiguille de La Berangere above the Conscrits hut, which is easily doable solo and no glacier crossing. 

Also just been looking at a day route from the Montenvers station, which is the Fretes des Charmoz on L’Aiguille de lM.

It sounds like the Crochues Traverse may also tick your boxes, with a stay at the Refuge de Lac Blanc?

It looks like the Argentiere hut is closing on 8th September. 

Glad to hear you're still going strong, John. Voyaging the Royal Traverse of Mont Blanc with you remains a treasured memory of one of the most aesthetic ways to spend a few days in the high mountains. Tony

Just left Cham. Conditions poor for snow stuff following heat wave, depending on objective may be worth keeping an eye on. I Think the Argentiere lift is closed if that influences things. Still lots to do, have a great time. 

Thanks very  much to everyone for their replies. Will certainly look into suggestions made and am following weather and conditions. Hi Tony, the Domes de Miage, Aiguille de Bionassay, Mont Blanc, Mont Maudit multi day traverse was absolutely up there with my best ever Alpine excursions and the way it occurred to us on the last minute and we made it happen adds a special magic.

The difference between the Mer de glace 12 years ago and now is frightening. I hope you're not disappointed!

It's being renamed the Mer de Gravier*

*gravel

Plan Joran lift from Argentière is running 8.30-4 at the moment

I caught the Plan Joran lift and walked in to Argentiere Refuge area for a bivvy recently. It is a great trip without too much up and down. Good for the knees, which I think is what you are after. Easy walk on/off glacier access. 100 m or so of easy ladders chains rails to get up and over the section below the old Grand Montet top lift. 3-4 hour trip to Refuge depending on how fast you want to make it.

Not sure about Mer du Glace access. Lots of signs in Chamonix showing all the routes around Montvers that are closed. Including the normal ladders. Haven't worked out what is open.

Ag. Genepi above Albert Premiere Refuge is always a good solo trip.  Berangere also although longer walk. Ag. Rouge awesome if lifts still running.

I’ve just been trying to work out which paths are closed around Montenvers and, having looked at the latest decree I can find (below- if the link works!), it looks like the ladders down to the Met de Glacé are closed, along with the path to them. It says you can access the ice caves via the gondola only and I’m not sure if that gives direct access to the glacier itself. Obviously you can walk up from lower down the glacier.
https://www.chamoniarde.com/images/files/arr%C3%AAte%20de%20fermeture%20sen...

I’m not clear from the map whether the path to the Signal Forbes is open- does anyone have local knowledge on this? If not, I’ll call in at the Guides bureau when we arrive.

That's really useful, thanks for all replies. The link worked for me. I exited the Mer de Glace from the ice cave and used the gondola after skiing the Valle Blanche about 4 years ago. This was straightforward and a pleasant surprise - I was expecting an uphill slog carrying skis.

No, there's another 462 steps down go the glacier. And of course, back up...

Yes, they try to make you use the lift, saying that the path down is dangerous. It's not.

In my experience it still is a hell of a slog even with the gondola as the Glacier has shrunk by 100's of meters since the gondola was built !

Cheers