UKC

When I was no’but a lad growing up in Sheffield in the 1950s we used to ride out on our bikes to Agden Rocher. My memory of it is as much tree climbing as rock climbing and I seem to remember a climb someone told us was called Oak Tree Wall which seemed to have alternate pitches of tree and rock.

When I was about 14 we discovered Stanage and the other eastern edges and never returned to Agden.
I live 100 miles away now so when we make the trip to climb we tend to stick with grit but I’m fancying a nostalgia trip and Agden and it’s strange rock ( whatever it is). I would appreciate some comment about whether it is still accessible i.e. open to visit without restrictions and what the state of the climbs is. Does anyone still go there? Would we be better off going to Wharncliffe instead etc. 

Thanks 

Access is fine and I visit the place a couple of times a year.  I think it is undervalued - lovely aspect, plenty of decent routes, catches the sun and is sheltered.  Parking is the only problem.

It isn't busy, but there are often others at the crag.  Oak Tree Walk is still as much fun as ever.

Agden is class. Get on it. Watch out for loose rock on the far left.

Definitely worth revisiting. Parking can be awkward if you don't want to walk in in 2 minutes

Lovely venue, which would be worthwhile even if it were just to work up a thirst for the Nag's Head (https://bradfieldbrewery.com/the-nags-head/).

Expanding on this a bit, if anyone else has driven to the crag at all the nearest parking (SK266934) will be full.  Two cars tops.  About 1km further to the NW along the Penistone Road (heading away from High Bradfield), there's more parking at a gate to a logging track into White Lee Moor plantation, and again a bit further along where the public footpath crosses the road.  (Best way to walk in from there.)

That footpath brings you back to a kissing gate and a bench near the NW end of the top of the crag, from there you can go down the steep slope to walk in along the bottom of the crag or carry on to a big grassy gully about 500m further on.  (Close to the Great Wall area.)

Alternatively if you're willing to put the effort into toiling up the hill there's ample parking on Smallfield Lane along the Eastern side of Agden Reservoir.  At the gate by the bridge that carries the road over Rocher End Brook there's a big stone stile (more a small flight of steps up and down again) and a choice of footpaths - less muddy to the left straight up to the ruins of the demolished farmhouse, or the much more attractive path up the side of Rocher End Brook itself.  From half way up the hill (between the tops of those two paths) you can strike out straight up the hillside (a well trodden path but not on the OS map) towards the old cruck barn labelled "Bowsen" on the map.  (SK 264930) 

With its modern tin roof, the barn looks like nothing from the outside but if you're passing have a peep inside at the wooden structure inside, it's really quite impressive.

Oh, and It is grit, but more like Chatsworth than Stanage with some really soft yellowy bits that have weathered into amazing patterns.  (Some of the routes have odd bands of rock too soft to place any gear in.)

If you're driving 100 miles to tick off a load of classics stick to Stanage.  But if you're happy with a handful of good routes, beautiful gnarly old woodland below the crag and stunning views from the top, and relative P&Q it'd be worth a visit even without the nostalgia. 

For after, the Old Horns pub close by in High Bradfield has ample parking and a large garden with a variation of the same excellent view.  Also food, friendly service and a very decent pint of Farmer's Blonde.  (One of the local brews from the Bradfield Brewery just over the road.)

I was there earlier this summer - fun place, top belays can be a pain to set up for some routes though. We tried Oak Tree Wall but neither myself or Dave, who was leading, realised quite how much tree you are meant to climb, so he actually climbed rock a bit to the left of the tree which wasn't easy. 5a or maybe 5b if you go that way?

Thanks.  I was aware of other parking options, but didn't know exactly where things were.  Mind you, I'm quite close to having done all I can do!

It took me a while to write my epic post so I missed a few, including this one.

Since I recommended the Old Horns, I think its only fair to admit the Nags Head is indeed a better pub.  But it's tricky to park there, doesn't have the view and the gap has narrowed since the Old Horns started serving Bradfield beer. 

Either pub is considerably better than anything Hathersage has to offer.  (There, I said it.)

I like it a lot, been a few times this year. Different vibe to grit for sure but the rock is gritty in texture still. Tends to be more blocky and edgy than typical grit though.

There are some good VS routes there and some good E1s. Some of the other grades have a bit of a void in quality climbs. 

Some of the tops are pretty rough, as others have said. Stakes on the popular routes, wing n a prayer on the less so popular ones. 

S.O.S. (VS 4c) and Baker Street (VS 4c) are good value. 

Still a lovely crag nesting between many lovely oak trees and with a fantastic vista from sat on the top of the crag.

Parking is limited as others have said but usually OK getting the car off the road tight against the wall near the footpath access as is rarely busy.

I've not done loads of routes there but of the 25 or so I've done from the current BMC guide mostly sticking to stuff with a star, all of have been worthwhile and some are particularly good as indicated by multiple stars. Watch the odd loose hold but generally sound on these routes. Some others particularly the righthand buttress look to be terrible. Avoid if at all damp as the rock doesn't have much friction when wet. But having said that being located away from the central peak (like Wharncliffe & Rivelin) it often experiences better weather and is in better condition and climbable when the eastern edges are being wind blown and catching showers.

Ah Agden..my favourite crag in the Peak, by far the best outlook, quiet and some cracking routes worth doing more than once (or twenty times!). Parking has never been an  issue in the 40 years I've been climbing there. As for the pub, the Nags is a major factor in any visit , exemplary ale ( currently £2.80 pint) and good food, it's not too be missed. 

Right that's enough of this, telling people how good it is. It's a local crag for local people and we can't be having any Tom, Dick or Harriet turning up and enjoying themselves. Go elsewhere please.

Arcturus can have a visit due to local ancestry and because his name sounds like it should be a route on the main wall.

Did you mean far right?

Agden is indeed brilliant but it's not really for everyone. Not much good stuff for sub VS leaders or the inexperienced and there is some loose rock and occasional inventiveness required with belays (I always took a length of static or all my very long slings).

Wharncliffe has also been mentioned and is also brilliant and great at lower grades and for the inexperienced,  and one of the best peak winter venues.

Paul knows the place better than me ...but I've never had a parking problem (with getting my car off the road) in my 30 years of occasional visits. The biggest benefit of Deepsoup's approach is it's another nice way to a nice place.

As for what cragtyke said it's clearly OK for non locals as its not graded to frightened them off. Plus in these dark days great pubs need every bit of help they can (Kelham Island should be a shot across climbing beer lover's bows)

Left looking in! My mate pulled off a massive block seconding a VS I can't remember the name off, just past the Main Wall.

Edit: I think it was S.O.S. (VS 4c)

I thought the rock on that route was generally fine? I dont recall otherwise, anyway. I also climbed Ardua (E1 5b), which is even further left and the top half was quality. 

SOS was in starworthy good nick when I seconded cragtyke a few years back. Most of the route has gone on some lines on the right.

Thanks everyone for your contributions. On the strength of your comments we are definitely going. We don’t have a guidebook which covers it though. We discussed this and decided we have enough experience between us (well over 100 years) to manage; after all we didn’t have a guidebook when we were young teenagers ( neither did we have any proper ropes or gear) and we still had fun.

The two VS climbs cragtyke pointed me at, to lead, are stonking:

Gordon's is a variation on The Whittler, and I think better than it:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/agden_rocher-93/gordons_climb-1876...

Spring Lamb Dopiaza, VS 4c, climbs straight up the right hand side of the big wall from the start of Cock of the North with puzzling moves to get going and continuing on a very unlikely line via a number of unexpected hidden holds.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/agden_rocher-93/spring_lamb_dopiaz...

This one is well worth a look as well if you are warming up on Campsite Crack:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/agden_rocher-93/campsite_capers-50...

By all means have an adventure and wing it but even if you borrow a guide off someone, it will save a lot of wasted time and allow you to grab the best lines on the crag. Baker street, The Whitler and some of the others mentioned are a good shout depending on your grade. I live near by and would be happy to lend you a book on the condition you drop it off when you're done. Best of luck.

Also welcome to borrow my guide if you are in Sheffield at some point. 

If you went there in the 50’s like me you probably knew it as Harecliffe Rocher. It was named as such in the guide books, not sure when or why it was changed.