UKC

Look away if you don't want beta.

A couple of years ago I tried Master Spy Direct (E4 6a) on a toppy, and found the middle section on the pillar really desperate, until i reached round the arete on the right, where there is a really good juggy flaky thing on the right wall of the pillar. This is kind of just after you move right from the pegs.

I was thinking of having a go at doing it properly, but i can't work out whether this is a legit way of doing it or whether I'd stolen holds from wipe out - it didn't seem like the edge i used would be useful for that route since it'd be facing the wrong way, and it doesn't remotely feel like going off route, but it is so close to it that I'm not totally sure. Anyone can shed some light? 

It's not an eliminate, so all holds are in, but that's the easy bit anyway.

I actually tried this yesterday, and had the same conundrum. I told myself the arete wasn't in so stayed off it, but couldn't do the move. Although I was tired from a full day of climbing I'd expect to scrape up an E4. If not onsight, at least to dog up it 🙂 hopefully I'll fluke up it next time lol.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I think i met you yesterday, did we talk to you at the bottom of falling crack while your mates were on wilton wall? 

Probably. We climbed Falling Crack and Wilton Wall so it's likely 🙂

Just seen your profile pic. Yeah we met. Good to meet you 👍