UKC

Placeholder post! Will get the stats up tomorrow evening.

Meh. Work was a nightmare this week which meant I got nothing done, and this weekend has definitely highlighted the precarious nature of the setup w.r.t. actually being able to get out and get really meaningful stuff done - my leg precludes getting on most of the boulders that interest me, which pushes me towards the (more desirable but also) more difficult to organise roped climbing, where it seems the halfway house is that it’s easier to end up doing easy mileage rather than being able to get stuck properly into something. A real feeling of missing out this week…

Coming week also looks crap so I have low expectations.

Monday - walked to and fro work (about 3 miles round trip). On the way back I stopped at the dip bars in the park and did 3 sets @bw+4 (my laptop, charger and associated clutter in my bag!) 8,7,6. Then 3x12 sets of feet elevated pushups.

Tuesday - lousy day at work. Nothing.

Wednesday - ditto

Thursday - a 5 til 9 (albeit broken up by meals, child faff and other such things) rather than a 9 til 5. Nothing

Friday - microAJM up in the night, another rubbish day at work, rescued by getting to the pub in the evening to catch up with an ex member of my team at work for the first time in a while.

Saturday - more child disruption overnight, we were both feeling whacked. Plans for me to take miniAJM climbing quickly collapsed and we had a day of pottering at home. Nothing achieved.

Sunday - a short hit to Neddyfields in weather that was far too hot. Very polished flowstone ripples in the sun… it rather reminded me that Neddyfields is a place I feel is good for me rather than necessarily enjoy (and if you can climb hard there, few routes on Portland will cause you issues!). Usual bunch of easier problems, a new 6A (have tried before, I find Neddyfields grades exists in something of a parallel universe sometimes), and tried a 7A (not in this heat, if at all) and a 7B (traverse with what would be frustratingly slippy feet, not particularly inspired to return to it)

Monday - the votes went for the Cuttings, and in hindsight I regret not arguing harder as it was scorching in the sun for part of the day and there was a big crowd out for a tea party (actual tea, table cloth, jelly, cakes, the works) at Lulworth with splashdowns included. 2 new to me 6as and did a very cruxy 6c second go.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_808-7518...

Looks like most people had a pretty good week! A few trips in tow and some fab training volume and injury rehab as well. Apologies again for this being a day late, the bank holiday makes the Monday the new Sunday as far as my brain is concerned!

Derek Furze: I can sympathise with the frustrating lack of climbing, but that training week is something to feel good about! Were you able to get out this week, perhaps on the Cheshire sandstone?

AJM: A bit of mileage and BW training is not a bad takeaway from a life-busy week. I think I might have missed this previously, what's the issue you've got going on with your leg?

Liam P: Allez! Hope Font is/was good, assuming this week is the one you were there? I'm getting a real urge to go again, such a fun place.

Somerset swede basher: Good cardio this week, and a wise choice on not hammering your way into a potential injury. I imagine the lime was dry this week, hope you managed to get back on the 7c!

Tyler: Shame about the various injury woes. It's certainly not my area of expertise but it does sound like a bit of general rest might be good to "reset" and start picking things up again soon.

Steve Claw: A busy week just ensures you get the rest that you need the first two days sound wicked, hopefully the rest of the trip followed suit.

AlanLittle: Another steady week with a bit of everything thrown in. Do you think you'll try to ramp up a little extra pump-training before the Kalymnos trip?

Tom Green: Nailing all your planned training sessions is a good tick, despite the weather. As you'll know it is a similar situation in Shropshire with the rock being pretty soft in many places, so I share the frustration. How's progress on the short-term goals looking?

Ally Smith: Looks like a good deload week, the occasional session keeping things ticking over. Must be refreshing to find a not-soft problem on the Moonboard

the sheep: Glad you were able to get a few things done! Hope the back continues to mend for you.

Randy: The curse of the routesetter, when someone strong comes along and just powers through the crux! Excellent pullup game. Even without the knowledge of your bodyweight, +53kg is pretty flipping good!

SteveJC94: A solid week despite the home renovations occupying so much time. I presume by home renovations you mean building an even bigger, better board, right?

Good evening all, a low-volume week from me, but I was able to get on the grit! Woohoo! Then it rained... oh well!

Including the Monday in this entry because it just fits in a bit better with the bank holiday scheduling.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Moonboard. Nearly twinged my right middle warming up too hastily, but seem to have got away with it. Two newbies, "Cup of Heel Juice" and "Sam's Ravioli". Didn't actually manage the latter but my mate did, so uploaded anyway.

W - Rest. Weigh-in at 78.2kg.

T - Golf. No pars, but more consistency!

F, S, S - Rest, fiancée's birthday.

M - Peak! Got to Baslow and got up Heroes LH without losing too much skin, but unfortunately got rained off before I could finish the direct. Bailed to Tom's Cave, where I tried a bunch of well 'ard roof stuff which was very enjoyable. Hannibal seems pretty doable, especially now I've been given some good beta from a friend. Need a few pads though just because of the distance you cover!

Next Week:

T, W, T, F - Bah, I'll figure something out. Want to train but don't know if I want to do 1 or 2 sessions.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Bulletproof fingers. Need discipline...

Fortunately doing sod all comes easily to me, unfortunately that extends to any type of rehab I should do. My goal for this week was to sort out some treatment for my feet and I have a physio appointment for next week.

M-F: Sod all

S: Llanymynech, had a few goes on a 7a I’d failed on previously. Disappointed to fail again (another new low, not sure, I’ve lost count!) but more importantly my elbow seemed fine from the off (usually takes a bit of warming up).

S: “Noticed” my elbow over night and then again when chopping logs. Thing is, splitting logs is good for the soul!

Hi all. Thanks for statting Ross.

STGs drifting a bit -unlikely to get them all ticked off in the next 10 days. The big miss will be the mountain days... I could really have done with getting those very specific types of effort into the legs. I'm hoping the running will be just enough to make up for it when I hit the Julian alps.

Week 37:

OK week for training. Better week for climbing.

M: Fingerboard, strength, prehab.

T: Trail Run. 10.8km, 350m vert, 6:49/km.

W: Shoulder prehab. 

T: Trail run with hill sprints (semi-vomit inducing, I'd forgotten how intense hill sprints are!).

F: Sport at Trollers Gill. One dogging go on Second Edition (6c) then opened account on The Jim Grin (7a) just going bolt to bolt.

S: Sport at Trollers. Got Second Edition (2nd tie-in) then had three good goes on Jim Grin. Annoyingly, this seems doable enough to have given me hope and got me hooked, but is probably too far above current fitness levels... could end up being a bit of a heart-breaker!

S: Trad at Armscliffe. Chuffed to finally get Great Western (HVS 5a) climbed (I've put it off for years!) although I did my best to make it difficult by some terrible ropework! Also very psyched to do The Flying Arete (f6B). But the real highlight of the day was following SSB up Big Greeny and Western Front -inspirational climbing from the Swede Basher.

Week 38:

M: Rest

T: Fingerboard & Strength

W: Run

T: Climbing

F: Fingerboard & Strength

S: Run

S: Prehab

STG -end Sept:

Climb at four of my 'climb here more' crags (Ticked! 5/4).

Climb six of my local to-do list.

Allakazam.

Ultra distance run. 

Three of my big mountain day list.

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees). 

MTG -end Dec:

Triglav N Face -hopefully two routes.

Weighted Pull-up: 90kg. 

Max Hangs: 85kg. 

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 5/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 2/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

At least two big, classic alpine goals

I did indeed intend to do three wall endurance sessions this week, but Life intervened. Two is still better than none.

Kalymnos trip with my son booked for 7th to 15 October - last father-son outing together before he starts uni. Have never been less prepared for a trip in terms of climbing fitness, but that isn't the main object of the exercise. Although it would be nice to get something decent in the 7a range ticked.

STG: Kalymnos trip with my son early October
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    
T:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Circuits.
W:   Bike one hour 
T:    
F:    
S:    
S:    Wall, Freimann. First time climbing with my son since his ankle injury last November - launch of our brief but better than nothing Kalymnos prep programme.

Some sort of hamstring tweak, as far as I can tell. Basically if I heel hook or toe in hard with my right leg it hurts in the back of the upper leg. I did it at some point in the spring I think, I don't know how.

It's more or less fine doing the vert-ish outdoor sport around here because mostly that's about standing and pushing on your feet, but bouldering, indoors in particular, seems to be pretty bad for pulling with the feet and my main projects are both right leg dependent.

I did some light RDL stuff a bit haphazardly in the spring, I had quite a long period of sport climbing over the summer that basically gave me no trouble, but it doesn't fundamentally seem to actually be getting any better, it's just a question of how well I can work round it.

Thanks Ross.  Yes, the lack of climbing opportunities is becoming really frustrating...

Training was good early in the week, with a reasonable session Monday between work preparations.  Ten sets of regular pull ups using a pyramid type pattern to a total of 50.  Then did some assisted singles - two with two-finger dish assistance and two with wrist holding (harder!).  Learnt that I will have to arrange a bar to make progress as the one-arm action doesn't work well on a fingerboard in a doorframe.  Fifty push ups and 50 bent over rows each arm.

Wed fifty push ups at hotel.

Returned from the south feeling ill. which lasted through to Sunday so no training or climbing.  Had an opportunity to climb Friday, but glad I didn't go as felt pretty rough.  Nothing that a weekend of partying (2 am, 2 am, 3.30 am finishes) couldn't sort out!

Three sets of extended shape throwing (still not sure if Tom and I can count this?).

Away with work today until Thursday then away for weekend with wife to Harrogate.  Looks like another no climb week - now four in a row!

Thanks Ross,

Yes the Lundy trip proved to be fun.  With a bit more time on the Island this year we go stuck in, and had 1 adventure after another.

M - Rampart (E3 6a) another wet crux adventure, with wet finger lock slipping as I swung round, thought I was off but the last finger knuckle held.  Followed by Lundy Queen (E3 6a) and Trust Issues (HVS 5a)

T - Rainy day, but still had fun.  Abed in and brushed Promised Land, then did the Needle stack by Integrity (HS 4b), whilst racing an incoming tide.  You know its a quality route when you can enjoy the climbing in the rain.

W - The Fifth Appendage (E1 5b) as a 3. I led the first bold pitch that was really greasy due to the high tide, 2nd pitch is quality E1.  Then the super adventure of The Promised Land (E3 6a) again as a 3 and racing an incoming tide, left the floor minutes before the boulder was covered.  First pitch is absolutely wild! up through the massive overhang, then I led through the technical crux on a solitary rusty peg.  Got benighted (prepared for it) on the final easier pitch, and jugged out the ab-line. Mega adventure, loads of fun.

T - Final day, took a quick TR session on My Life in my Hands (E6 6a), very much a route in my style, just would be a crazy thing to lead. Loved the look of the rest of the stuff on the Black Crag.  Then a quick romp up Blood Brothers (E1 5b) before running for the boat.

F - Nothing

S - Nothing

Sun - Quick TR session on my Creationist 7c "highball" project, got a working beta, but I have to start left of the first bolt, figured that's how everyone will do it anyway.  Very sharp small crimps on 15 degree overhanging wall. 

Thanks for the stats Ross and no problem with the slight delay

Recap last week

Mon: Rest

Tues: Gym climbing, warmed up on boulders up to 6b+. Then did a testing session on the fingerboard: 20mm, Beastmaker 1000 bottom Edge:

• Max Test: + 37kg for 7s and + 41kg for 5s
• Repeater Test with bodyweight: 7s,3s repeaters till failure: 2 minutes and 35s (15,5 reps)

Afterwards, weighted Pullups +20kg with 3 min P: 3x8. Finished the session with some easier bouldering in the 6b to 6b+. Pullups were not maximal, probably had one rep left in the tank on my third set, but did not wanted to go to hard today. Bouldering felt quite hard after the test and the pullups, so i should probably just have ended the session after the test.

Wed: L-Sit 2x20s; Handstand training 2x12 pike pushups,15 lunges, 3 pistol squats with each leg, 30 pushups and 45s V-Sit Up; Handstand is getting more and consistent, managed a couple of times to hold it around 7s

Thur: Gym bouldering session; did two 6c boulder after a couple of tries, and projected a 6c+ and a 7a/7a+; 10 minute rest, 4x4 Boulder, around 5 min rest, Grades around 6a-6b (fell on the 6b on my 4th rep); weighted Pullups  + 20 kg with 3 min rest, 3x8, felt quite hard after the endurance session and i was close to my limit on the last set

Fri: Rest

Sat:  Gym bouldering session, did the 6c+ boulder from last session in a couple of tries, then worked on a couple of harder problems in the 7a-7a+ range, finished the session with some tries on an endurance 6c/6c+. Had no problems with the move, but was too tired to put it together in this session. 15 minutes break, weighted pullups  + 20 kg with 3 min rest: 3x8,7, immediately did 4 bodyweight pullups after finishing the last set; got really close on the last rep of the 4th set, but in the end one inch was missing to get my chin over the bar

Sun: Gym bouldering session; did the 6c+ endurance boulder from last session after a couple of tries, 15 minutes break, 4x4 6a-6b with around 5 min break, managed to do the 6b from last session 4 times and generally felt a little bit fitter on the wall, despite being tired from large volume this week

Review last weeks goals: 

• Do at least one endurance focused climbing session and increase climbing volume while reducing intensity a little bit - Check
• Increase weight for the Pullups to 20 kg, but don't max out on reps and always try to have one left in reserve - Check, did not went all out on the first two session and then tested myself on the last sessions, which i think is still fine

Goals next week: 

• Continue with the endurance sessions and ensure that the pump level is not too high (maybe 7-8/10)
• Weighted pullups + 20kg with 3 min P: 4x8
• Get back on Slimline (8a+) and make some new link

Very intensive training week after the deload last week. I was hoping for some slightly better numbers in the max strenght test, based on my one-handed PRs. But i also did not do any max hangs in the last months, so once i would introduce them i suspect that my numbers would go up quickly.

Otherwise, i am quite happy with the endurance numbers and how the two 4x4 sessions went. Despite doing not much endurance, i think i am at a decent level and could notice some improvements already after the first session.

Thanks for the stats Ross, I've not had chance to get out sport climbing this week but did manage a short boulder hit and an awesome trad day at Almscliffe.

Mon. rest.

Tues. Windy Knoll boulder session.  Managed to tick Vandal in the Wind (f7A+) and a couple of 6Cs.  Vandal felt committing on my own.  Its a big throw from a high footlock and although its not too high you come off very hortizontal if you fluff the move.

Wed. Wall session, leading first, 6a, 6b+ 7a, 7a.  Then auto belay, 7b, up 7b down 6a up 6c+, 7a, 6a+.  Lots of chat between things, nice social session.

Thurs. 10km run.

Fri. rest.

Sat. 31km cycle, steady pace but hilly.

Sun. Met Tom at Almscliffe.  The Big Greeny (E3 5c) went smoothly.  Western Front (E3 5c) didn't.  I got there in the end ground up ish (I did one move off the rope on one of the attempts but basically ground up). Some bouldering too.

Sun.  walked the kids up to Lost Lad.

Cheers for the stats Ross.  There are plenty of sandbag grades in the benchmarks, especially so from 7A upwards.  Recent additions of some harshly graded 7A+ and 7B BMs have made it unlikely I'll achieve my aim of completing all BMs up to and inc 7B (IMHO there are things lurking in the BM 7Bs that would get >7C outside...)

Week 37

M – Nowt.

T – Board. 6B+ to 6C+ warm-ups. I was going to do a FB session, but got tempted to try my 8A benchmark project. I managed to do the first hard move very consistently – at least 10 times, but never held the final move (apart from one go where I dabbed a foothold - see IG story from Sunday). A fine session, but not a lot of variety in moves!

W – Rest.

T – Board PE session. Warm up on various 6B+s. Two good burns to failure on a hard 3 problem link-up. A little better than the same session last week. Pancake stretches with 10kg kettlebell later in front of TV.

F – Nada.

S – Full day of gardening, wasn’t the best preparation for…

S – …attempts at outdoor link-up project. Got a new high point and discovered some new beta which marginally takes the sting out of the final crux.

Cheers Ross. Font was amazing! What a place. I’ve rebooked a solo trip for the first week of November so get on it!

Mon

Got lost on the walk in to 95.2 with lots of pram friendly paths being not so pram friendly. Eventually stumbled on the Ouest Sector and did a few Orange & Blues. Highlight being Blue 38 - L'Ectoplasme (f5) which had some cool moves on big holds. Annoyingly, someone has chipped a hold on the top out which is right next to a good pinch!?

Tue

With walk in now dialled we returned to 95.2 and did more around the Nort Sector. Highlight was White 29 - Greta Garbo (f5+) which ended up being my highpoint at 5c!

Wed

Went to Sabots which was probably my favourite sector for the baby to have a run around and the setting. Decided to have a go at the Orange Circuit but was hopelessly distracted half way through by some great looking blues. Highlight was the Lucifer Block which didn’t have a bad problem on it, some of which felt unexpectedly highball!

Thu

Travel

Sun

Trip to Dancing Ledge which was ridiculously warm for mid September. Climbed a few 6s then surprised myself with a clean top rope of Mr. Choo Choo (7a). Hoping to go back soon when it’s a little cooler to finally get the redpoint.

Zero training but pretty good week of climbing!

Thanks Ross. Unexpected BH weekends throw everything into disarray.

I can't believe I've missed Steve being in Lundy at the same time as me. I think I even saw you on Rampart. That looks like a great route. Did you go onto the outcrop at the top after?

I had a great trip. The run up wasn't great with COVID and when we got there it didn't feel like the place for pushing the grade. So, it became about ticking classics. It turns out that can be fun.

Highlights were Satan's Slip (E1 5a), American Beauty (HVS 5a), Headline (E1 5b) (in the rain) and a few others around HVS - E1 It was good for the soul and we were very lucky with the weather and the crossings. I tried Ice (E3 6a) but failed and that was the hardest thing I tried. Keen to go back one day. It was very interesting to meet people who have been there 20-30 times.

This week I'll be getting back to the gym and to the wall. No plans. Just get back active, do some testing and sort out Winter training.

We were there at the same time. I can't believe it. We had a good weather week!

Llanymynech is a great place. I loved it.

Doh, it is, I really need to get back there as on Saturday I went to Llanddulas! I keep getting those two mixed up! To be fair, Llanddulas isn’t bad

Yes that was us and on the outcrop after. Where were you?

I’m trying to remember now, so many zawns! 
 

I think I was on Ice. I think that’s fit for being able to see you. Well from the ab point in anyway.

Thanks for the stats Ross. This week I managed two more max hang sessions with a little bit of board climbing added in for good measure.

Sadly the home renovations don’t extend to a new board. Though I’m trying to convince a friend to let us build a board in her cellar and turn it into a mini version of The School Room!