UKC

Evening all. Been a busy weekend for me, will get the stats out tomorrow.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_809-7520...

Another week of being a day late on the stats, didn't get back from a Wales excursion until about 10pm!

A couple of naff weeks, and a couple of stellar weeks. I think the weather is going a bit down the drain soon, so I imagine there'll be a bit more time spent dangling from bits of wood and resin in the upcoming entries!

AJM: Sorry to hear about a predominantly naff week. Squeezing in a bit of training and still getting out on the weekend is better than nothing, even if it is roasting conditions and sandbagged routes. These weeks aren't conducive to rehabbing the dodgy leg either, though from a few mates' experience with hammy injuries (all from Red or Dead!), they take flippin' ages to heal fully!

Tyler: Glad you've got a physio appointment sorted, keen to hear how that went. Hope the elbow didn't continue to be noticeable after the weekend!

Tom Green: Hill sprints? Yuck! Nice week of training and climbing, some good looking routes in the bag!

AlanLittle: Relatively sparse week, but two sessions is still good, especially if you get to climb with your son again for the first time in ~10 months. Not long until the trip now!

Derek Furze: Good training early in the week, and excellent weekend shape throwing. Definitely counts as training! The illness sucks but it sounded brief, so shouldn't have impeded too much.

Steve Claw: Excellent Lundy ticklist! Sounds absolutely wicked. How is the progress on that 7c "highball" coming along?

Randy: Intense week! All sessions seemed to go well, hope the upcoming Slimline session was productive.

Somerset swede basher: Looks like a solid week to me. Nice 7A+ and a couple of classic E3s!

Ally Smith: I was only pulling your leg about the sandbags, I know all too well how stiff they can be! Good week from you, if you can make a new high point on the link-up even with less-than-ideal prep the day before, you should be well set for a good session when fresh.

Liam P: The things I'd give to be about to go to Font again this autumn! Another great week from you, did you make a return to Mr Choo Choo?

biscuit: Glad you finally lucked out with the weather. Sounds like a fantastic time.

SteveJC94: Brief, but sounds like a decent training week! I'm also in the process of convincing a friend of mine to build a board, fingers crossed!

Not much outdoor activity for me to report this week - wet weekend - but solid progress on the better-late-than-never endurance programme

STG: Kalymnos trip with my son early October
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    
T:    Wall, Boulderwelt. Forty minutes or so of moderate bouldering to warm up, then circuits. Skin still more of a limiting factor than forearms on the steep jugs.
W:    Bike about an hour on errands around town.
T:    
F:    Wall, Gilching, autobelay mileage. Started with an ominous little flash pump from not resting enough between warmup pitches, but - unusually for me - was able to climb through it and still have a good session. Ten routes up to 6c.
S:  Wet weekend - too wet to climb, but not too wet for a couple of hours on the bike in the woods. Remembered to bring a jacket this week!
S:    Wall, Weyarn. Had planned to do another routes session with my son, but he picked up a seasonal lurgy at the (newly reopened) Oktoberfest, so back on the autobelays for me. Pity to miss out on some time on lead and some falling practice, but physically at least I'm feeling some fitness and fluency returning. So that's good.

Decent week from me. Annoyingly I think I've got a minor injury on my right middle finger. It seems to be aggravated by micro holds, so I'm not sure if it's pressure from the DIP joint extending, or something else (A4 pulley?).

Advice and anecdotes are greatly welcomed!

Last Week:

T - Rest

W - No-hangs, 6x10s, 3m rest, 19mm, 34kg. Was warming up and felt some tweakiness as detailed above, so opted for the un-shimmed edge to reduce such extension. Weigh-in at 78.1kg.

T - Rest.

F - Moonboard. After 45 frustrating minutes of trying hard and flailing, I accepted weakness and boshed out half a dozen 6B+s to boost the ego a bit. Finger feeling a tad sore but not holding me back on decent-sized holds.

S - Rest.

S - The Pass. Projected Lizard King Middle (V9) for a bit. Managed all of the moves except the first one. It was feeling close until it gouged a hole in my fingertip! Managed Emyr's Arete (V6) pretty quickly, then down to the Cromlech roadside to finish myself off. Finger was still a tad sore but not impeding.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - No-hangs.

W - Rest.

T - Moonboard? Big hold stuff doesn't seem to aggravate the tweak...

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Rehab right-middle tweak.

Bulletproof fingers.

A mega straightforward report for me.

Nada.  Zilch.  Nothing.

Really busy with work and challenges compounded by a car breakdown (clutch failed) on a busy road near Harlow.  Organised a relay to get the car home (after a four-hour wait roadside), got to overnight accommodation then tried getting around my work visits by taxi followed by train home.  All in all a bit of a pain and still not fixed, so likely another week of transport challenges to come.

Quite touched by many of the good people of Harlow offering help - far outweighed the odd shout of 'oi, wanker, you can't park there...'

Weekend with wife in Harrogate so 2xthree hour dancing sets.

Climbing scheduled for Friday, so the forecast is awful!

Another rubbish week this week, I wrote it off from the start, less stress that way.

Monday I went out per last week

Sunday I went to Lulworth with a big psyched crew. The season has kicked off in earnest now, with mint conditions and the sun now low enough in the sky that it hits the steep faces, which it doesn't in summer. Probably about as good rock conditions as I've ever had there. 

- usual range of warmups

- one dunking on Adrenochrome (8a), off the Dyno, but I got my hand onto the hold and I have some possible beta to make holding it easier

- a jump off Mark of the Beast (7c), from a few moves higher this time. A gradual process of building my comfort zone I think, I was a lot further from the reef than I thought I might be and most of the falls I saw over the day were ones which boosted rather than regressed my confidence.

I didn't intend for that to sound so hopeless! For more context, they were still able to boulder quite hard as long as the problem wasn't too heavy on the affected leg, and they all healed up even with minimal specific rehab. I bet with some specific exercises it wouldn't be too long before you can fully load it again.

Thanks Ross, a lower milage week this week (work has been busy) but some successful performances.

Mon. Walk up Lost Lad with the kids (think I might have got carried away and added my Monday to last week's post), not sure how far, 7km ish I think.

Tues. Rest.

Wed. Max hangs, new PB at +29kg for a full 6 hangs. Pull ups, press ups.

Thurs. 9km run.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Redpointed Cry of Despair (7c).

Sun. 8km hill walk with the kids. 9km evening run.

I think once I'm through the busy bit at work in the middle of this week I'm going to get an appointment with the physio to get a firm steer. My half hearted attempts to diagnose and rehab have so far broadly failed, so I'm going to have to bite the bullet and tell me what I should and shouldn't be doing.

Unfortunately i did not manage to get on it, but had to take a unplanned deload week instead.

Recap last week

Mon: Rest

Tues: Gym climbing, flashed 5 Boulder in the 6a to 6b+ range with short rest; then did weighted pullups +20 kg: 4x8 with 3 min rest, 10 min break, 4x4 boulder with about 5 min rest 6a+ to 6b+ (fall one the rest rep of the last two boulders); another good session, had at least on rep left in the tank  at the last set of weighted pullups and managed to increase the difficulty of the 4x4 session quite significantly

Wed: Rest for my fingers but some serious exercise for my liver at the Oktoberfest

Thur: One of these days . Wanted to go bouldering, was already at the gym and then hit my head in the changing room on door of a locker. End result was a 2cm long laceration and i spent the evening at the emergency room instead of the gym, which again proves that bouldering is high risk compared to sport climbing

Fri: Rest due to headache

Sat:  Head was feeling better, but my left arm was swollen after the tetanus vacination that i got on thursday. So again  another rest day

Sun: Rest: Arm feeling better, but still not good enough to climb

Review last weeks goals: 

• Get back on Slimline (8a+) and make some new link - Fail
• Continue with the endurance sessions and ensure that the pump level is not too high (maybe 7-8/10) - Fail, did a good session but really went all out, but maybe it is good to do that once in a while
• Weighted pullups + 20kg with 3 min P: 4x8 - Check, at least one goal ticked

Goals next week: 

• Get in two climbing sessions before my Frankenjura trip starts, keeping the intensity rather high but the volume low
• Don't destroy myself completely on the first two days of the trip

Pretty frustrating week, but sometimes you just run into bad luck and need to deal with that. At least the training in the last month but very good and maybe it is not too bad to have a low volume week before the Frankenjura trip.

Cheers Ross. I did!…but it was again far too warm for redpointing. For me, the crux hold is clipping off an open right hand pinch which has become ridiculously polished. Took the opportunity to bounce around on all the clipping stances so pretty happy I’m ready for a RP go when the sun isn’t on it.

Mon

• Hour of stretching in front of the tv

Wed

Leg Rehab

• Single Leg Calf Raises 5x 20 (11.25kg)
• Hamstring Curls 3x 12 (11.5kg)
• Leg Extensions 3x 10 (L 38kg R 15s Iso Hold)
• Single Leg Leg Press 3x 10 (L 52kg)
• Hanging Leg Wipers 3x 12
• Hanging Leg Raises 3x 12
• Hanging Knee Raises 3x 12

Second session of OAPU Club

• Free hand on shoulder - 1 rep
• Free hand on bicep - 2.5 reps
• Free hand on wrist - 7 reps

Sat

Warm afternoon session at Dancing Ledge. Couple of 6s and a bit of toproping.

Crikey Liam!  Looking strong on OAPU already

Getting there! The ‘hand on shoulder’ was a bit of a battle this week (and very messy) but managed to add a rep to the other 2 sets.

I just need your dieting abilities as I’m still running about 4-5kg overweight. 

Thanks Ross it was first thing this morning, it sounds like it's one to add to the pain-in-the-arse, rather than chronic, injury list. No running for a while, possibly ever, probably not plantar fasciitis but a little bone spur aggravating the Achilles.

Despite having thrown in the towel last week I've actually been pretty active, which is probably just as well as it seems winter has arrived.

M: Got annoyed about doing nothing so headed into the Carneddau at about 3pm with half an idea to solo Amphitheatre Buttress (VD). Got annoyed that I'd left it too late and hadn't packed a head torch but made ok time to the base (the final slog to the stat is a real ball ache) so decided to press on. An amazing route (if I'd have been humble enough to put easy routes on my lifetime list 35 years ago this would have been on it), much more sustained than guides suggest, can't recommend it enough and the walk in from Llyn Egiau is defineitely the more aesthetic way to approach.

T: Split the unsplitable log at lunchtime, I think that makes me the true heir to the throne or something.

W: Joe was up for one last after work visit to Pen Trwyn so we went to Black Wall in search of (non-existent) sun. I got on the most horrible route in Pen Trwyn for the third time this year and still can't do the moves - compelling. Elbow starting to grumble now

T & F: No log splitting - boo!

S: Long planned social in the Peak. Did some easy routes, Cave Arête (HVS 5a) was the highlight (well that and completing over 100 new logbook ticks for the year).

S: Circular walk around Stanage as a break from sitting in the cafe.

Log splitting!  I once bought a house with a triple garage, half of which was full of very large roundels.  I used to love time with the axe and also used to set the unsplittables to one side for a special occasion.  I still miss it!

Thanks Ross.

I haven't been back on the highball project, its good to lead next time I am in that direction.

Keeping the Rad in Trad again this week.

M - Bank Holiday - Nothing

T - Nothing

W - Quick go on my Wild West project, that I have not been on in a while. No progress, but I suppose I have done nothing to deserve any progress.  I do need to focus a bit more, spend more time on it and specific training that I need.

Then visit to Fairy Cave for Glacial Point (E4 5c). As a pure on-sight (not even any chalk on the route) this was quite the experience.  Slab climbing on very marginal holds with ground fall potential, when you have no idea what is coming next, or if you have even moved to more holds.  One to remember.

T - Keeping up the slab theme, Journey Man's Wall (E3 5c), another big lonely lead, and a few sport routes.

F - Some Avon fun with a new 6b and a 7b

S - Nothing

S - Nothing

I find log splitting very meditative - that no-mind feeling of letting the axe fall of its own accord rather than trying to bash with it.

Double write up from me next week as I'm away on holibobs with the family. 

Cheers for the stats Ross. A slightly heavier but still light week as I'm still easing back into training:

M - Rest

T - HB Max Hangs (5 x 10s hangs; 20mm edge; Half Crimp; BW + 15kg). 5 board problems (6C; 6C+; 7A; 7A; 7A)

W - Rest

T - HB Max Hangs (5 x 10s hangs; 20mm edge; Half Crimp; BW + 15kg). Arc 3 x 8 minute sets on the circuit board

F - Rest

S - Rest

S - 30k zone 3 ride on the bike

Plan for the next couple of weeks is to keep gradually ramping the training volume up to get in shape again post-holidays, before starting a fresh periodised cycle at the start of October. 

Hi folks. Cheers for the stats, Ross.

Poor week for training, but a couple of fun climbing days (including an STG tick).

Week 38:

M: Rest.

T: Abandoned a fingerboard sesh as still felt tired and tweaky from the weekend.

W: Sport at Kilnsey. Got Allakazam (6c) RPd despite trying to sabotage myself with my apalling memory for beta. STG tick. 

T: Trad at Dovedale. Led Nancy Whisky (E1 5b) before the monsoon arrived. 

F: Nowt.

S: Drinking to excess.

S: Eating to excess.

Week 39:

M: Nowt

T: Run & Prehab

W: Strength & Prehab

T: Prehab

F: Run

S: Travel to Slovenia

S: Hill walk to recce The Wall.

STG -end Sept:

Climb at four of my 'climb here more' crags (Tick! 5/4).

Climb six of my local to-do list (Not going to happen despite valiant efforts on First of Many (none 5b) and various rained off attempts at climbing at Highcliffe)

Allakazam (Tick!)

Ultra distance run (I could potentially this in, but not going to risk hurting my legs before Triglav -will roll over until I get back!)

Three of my big mountain day list (Not going to happen).

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees). 

MTG -end Dec:

Triglav N Face -hopefully two routes.

Weighted Pull-up: 90kg. 

Max Hangs: 85kg. 

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 5/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 3/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

At least two big, classic alpine goals

There are still some left to do if you’re ever over, I even have a spare checked shirt you can borrow!

Which wall? Sounds interesting 

I’m trying to be down with the kids! Apparently the local climbers call the Triglav north face ‘The Wall’. I kinda like it… makes it sound suitably hardcore!

Oh cool, I think it is kinda hardcore (or at least resembles it!)

Well it did produced Steve House, so that's a strong argument for its hardcoreness

Thanks Ross. Yes it was a great holiday and some sun felt well overdue.

I'm going to be starting training shortly so i'm getting habits back into place. Keeping an eye on my macros, sleep and HRV again. I won't bore everyone with the minutiae every week unless something exciting happens.

M - Rest after Lundy and back to work

T - Climb at LancasterWall. Still a bit tired after Lundy. Had a try hard session though, good fun.

Gym - legs. 19 sets over 6 exercises

W - Rest. Stretch.

T - Gym - Arms/shoulders - 24 sets over 7 exercises

F - Climb - bailed from Gouther as it was very humid and damp. Went to Trowbarrow and did some headpointing. Never really done it before. A Sense of Doubt (E4 6b) was first with a quick top rope (the start was hardest with a proper 6b move I had to practise a few times) and then a clean lead. What a cool feeling. Then had a look at Blow Out (E6 6a). I went wrong right at the start first time but got it clean second go. Other than the crumbling holds (I disposed of 3) I'm pretty keen to go back and have a look at it. It's bold (and crumbly) but it's my style of small, positive, holds so I felt quite comfy on it - on a top rope. Deffo worth another session to look at gear and consider it seriously.

S - Rest

S - Board session at LancasterWall to try and start putting some problems together for future use.

Gym - Chest/back/leg - 26 sets over 8 exercises

A steady week and the gym is starting to feel less hard and time consuming as it becomes familiar and a habit.

We've been testing this week prior to starting training (but good weather days will still be outside). Trip to Costa Blanca at Xmas is the medium term goal. 7b onsighting and 7c redpoint would be my wish. That feels quite big when I write it down but I'm pretty psyched to try hard these next few months and I onsighted 7b (soft) last September. I was fit but didn't have the top end endurance for anything harder. This time I will so fingers crossed.

Cheers, a minimal report this week. Family hectic schedule combined with low motivation took its toll

Managed 3 x 1km swims a stretch class and a 5k run

Inspired by the marathon this morning my wife has entered the ballot for London again with the view that if she doesn’t get in she will do Milton Keynes instead and aim to beat her pb.  I have agreed to train with her so looks like I’m on a marathon training plan too