UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_810-7523... 

We've had some strong scenes in OAPU club from Liam P, plus a couple other good trad and sport days from a bunch of others. I, on the other hand, am now the proud owner of a small puppy, so no big days out for me until he's big enough to drag him along and teach him not to sit on bouldering pads...

AlanLittle: Endurance programme looks soli this week! Pity about the lurgy, but better now than at the start of the trip I suppose?

Derek Furze: I can empathise, it's no fun being a member of the UKC Car Breakdown Club. Dancing is good though, good climbing substitute!

AJM: Sure, you might not have managed any training, but any week where you can take some big lobs at Lulworth must be a decent one, at least! How did you work the start of MoTB when you first opened the account? There are quite a few moves over the ledge, everyone trying it when I was there just had great beta from those who had already done it.

Somerset swede basher: Excellent news on the fingerboard and hard RP. A mate of mine has been on the trad in the peak this week and looks like the weather turned out decent, hope you managed to get out!

Randy: Ouch! I guess life has a way of making you take a deload week. Hope the 'jura preparations are going better this week...

Liam P: Project sounds promising. Strong training scenes on Wednesday!

Tyler: Shame about the physio outcome. Is there a plan for treatment/rehab, or just find alternatives that don't aggravate it too much? Excellent log-splitting and trad excursions despite this!

Steve Claw: Terrific head-game exercise this week! Looks at some pictures of Glacial Point, one of them being a rescue helicopter certainly sets the scene a bit.

Ally Smith: Enjoy the holiday!

SteveJC94: Nice steady training volume. Hope it keeps up as planned.

Tom Green: Not too bad an idea to ease off the training a little just before the trip. Fingers crossed the weather is good for you and the travel was stress-free.

biscuit: Glad you're chuffed with Lundy. Last week sounds great as well! Good luck with the big training block before Costa Blanca.

the sheep: A couple of swims is still good. I can't imagine anything worse than being roped into a marathon - but I also don't like running! Hope the ballot results in your favour.

Still not got the car back!  As predicted, work is getting in the way of training and climbing at the moment, but hoping to get out tomorrow at last!  Over four weeks since I touched rock, so pretty desperate at this stage.  Also, things have been complicated by a bit of a bug and a series of celebrations for my wife's birthday.  Hope to get stuff done this week 😃

Congrats on the puppy!  Just been handed one to cuddle in the pub.  I do love dogs, but definitely am not getting one!  Might chew my new bouldering mat before I get to use it!

Thanks for the stats Ross. This week wen't a lot better and maybe it was not that bad to have a deload as i was training quite hard the weeks before. Now only the weather needs to get better. We had planned to start this saturday but postponed it to Monday as it was raining heavily the whole weekend. But at least forecast for next week looks much better.

Recap last week

Mon: Gym climbing, short session after an almost week long break, flashed one 6b+ and one 6c boulder, did another 6c third go, and a comp 6c after a couple of tries, quickly projected a 6c+, could link the upper section but did not manage to do the first move; 10 min break; weighted pullups +20 kg 3x8, had about 1-2 reps in reserve at the last set but did not wanted to push it after the training break

Tues: Rest

Wed: Gym climbing, flashed 5 boulder in the 6a to 6b+, then flashed two 6c; 10 min break, tried one armer again, with my right hand i could  complete one starting at 90°, but had no chance starting with a straight arm, with my left arm i could initiate some movement starting at 90° but could not complete the whole movement; 10 min break, weighted pullups + 20kg, 4x8, got close to failure on the last set; 10 min break, 4x4 boulder with about 5 min rest 6a+ to 6b+ (fall one the last rep on two boulders)

Thur: L-Sit 30s; Handstand training 1x12 pike pushups,15 lunges, 3 pistol squats with each leg, 30 pushups and 45s V-Sit Up; solid Handstand again about 7s without the wall and then 20s with wall start

Fri: Rest 

Sat:  Gym climbing, flashed three boulders in the range 6a - 6b+, 3 6c in the second Go.  Quickly projected one technical 7a boulder and one power 7a Boulder, then  did  6c+ 3rd Go; 10 min break, weighted pullups + 28kg, 3x6,5

Sun: Rest

Review last weeks goals: 

• Get in two climbing sessions before my Frankenjura trip starts, keeping the intensity rather high but the volume low - Check
• Don't destroy myself completely on the first two days of the trip Check, postponed the trip by two days as it was raining the whole weekend heavily 

Goals next week: 

• Onsight at least one 7a
• Climb at least one 7b+ or harder

Looks like i did not loose anything last week. Feeling quite strong and in a very decent overall shape. Now i just need a little bit of luck with the weather and the conditions next week.

Another wet weekend: did at least get a wall session in with my recovered-from-lurgy son, and concluded the attempt to at least build a bit of endurance for Kalymnos. I feel like the better late than never training campaign has gone rather well - the shoulder is mostly behavng itself, and at least on plastic I'm feeling reasonably fit & confident.  And plastic fitness should get me further on Kalymnos than in, say, the Frankenjura.

STG: Kalymnos trip with my son from next Friday
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    
T:    Wall, Thalkirchen. This used to be my regular DAV group night but I've hardly been this year. Saw a lot of familiar faces which was nice. Ended up climbing in a three so not great for getting volume done, but otoh any time on a rope is good considering the amount of autobelays and circuits I've beeen doing.

       About an hour on the bike to & from the wall
W:    
T:    
F:    Wall, Gilching. Next Friday evening I'll be watching the sun set over the Aegean; today I tried to go to the wall at Freimann, but it's right next to the Bayen Munich stadium and I reckoned without a home game and forty minutes queue to get off the autobahn. Drove to the wall on the other side of town instead, and had a decent autobelay mileage session there.
S:  
S:    Wall, Gilching. Finally managed to get another session in with my son; a spot of falling practice and some valuable time on the kind of steeper, more three dimensional routes that aren't feasible on autobelays. 

Thanks for the stats Ross:

Last week was quite a good one for me in the end:

Monday - Max Hangs x 5 (Half Crimp; 20mm edge; 10s hang; BW +15kg) 

Wednesday - 4 x 4s at the lead wall

Friday - Minimum Edge Depth Hangs x 5 (Half Crimp; 8mm Edge; 6s hang; BW). 5 hard problems on the 50 degree board (7A; 7A; 7A; 7A+; 7A+)

Sunday - back on the grit at last!. First day climbing outdoors since July and the first time on grit since the end of April so got absolutely spanked! Managed to tick off Charlie's Crack (HVS 5b) and thugged my way up No Zag (E1 5b) after being spat off the crux on my first attempt.

Planning a lighter week now as I've got the Battle of Britain boulder comp next Saturday, but will be continuing with more minimum edge depth hangs and starting some more endurance circuit board work. 

Thanks Ross, and great work on the stats. A week of two halves for me.

Mon. Max hangs (+29kg) nice that last week's PB felt standard fair this week. Pull ups ,press ups.

Tues. 5km run.

Wed. First grit lamp session of the season. Decided to start big and had a play on Back Street Mime Artist. It's brilliant and I'm really psyched for another session. Got a sequence up to the good sidepull about a third of the way along. Not looked at by the rest yet but looks mega.

Thurs to sun. Lurgy. Limped through work on Thurs, stayed in bed Fri and sat, walking wounded today. Hopefully be able to get back on it from Wednesday maybe, we'll see.

Ooh, can I join? Picked up my car on Friday after a wheel baring change only for it to make a terrible noise when I tried to drive it today. Mucked up some plans but nothing climbing related.

Pretty easy to describe my week, failed to do much of my Achilles rehab. Climbed on Saturday, definitely not managing to maintain my already low standard, really struggling on to hang on to big holds and had to dog a 6b. Elbow 'niggly' 

Hopefully a less stressful week at worked coupled with better time management means I'll make some progress on my wall and the rehab.

Cheers Ross. Marginal gains in OAPU Club but I think that’s the way to go as I’ve never pulled that hard in my life - feels like a fast-track way to get tendonitis. Put a rep on my ‘Hand on Wrist’ set so will plug away. Aiming to have a full one-arm in the bag by Christmas.

Cancelled my Font plans as nobody was keen for a November Bouldering trip. Mates are making noises about El Chorro instead so starting to make desperate attempts at developing some sort of stamina.

Mon

• Pinch Block 5x 7s LH(16kg) RH(18kg)
• 6x 7:3 Repeaters- 3x 20mm4FD, 3x 20mmHC
• Hour stretching

Wed

Leg Rehab

• Single Leg Calf Raises 5x 20 (12kg)
• Hamstring Curls 3x 10 (12kg)
• Leg Extensions 3x 8 (L 45kg R BW)
• Single Leg Leg Press 3x 10 (L 55kg R 0 Eccentric)
• Back extenders 3x 8 (5kg)
• Hanging Wipers from standing (seen these called ‘Round the Worlds’ and they’re hard!) 3x 4
• Hanging Wipers from flat back 3x 12 

Third session of OAPU Club

• Free hand on shoulder - 1 rep
• Free hand on bicep - 2.5 reps
• Free hand on wrist - 8 reps

Thu

• Pinch Block 5x 7s LH(16.5kg) RH(18.5kg).

Sun

Rain stopped play on the south coast

Trip to the wall for a social climb instead. A load of 6’s then a 4x4 Stamina Sesh on the Autobelays. Stayed in the 5s and was absolutely boxed by the end. First time I’ve tried these and think there may be some low-hanging fruit to be had!

Thank you Ross,

I quieter one this week with work etc.

Mon - Went dry tooling with a couple of friends.  I haven't done anything with crampons or axes before, but it didn't take long to get it.  Its really just climbing with strange attachments, and a constant fear that I was going to have the tool slip and take one to the face.  All good fun and a good workout on overhanging rock.

Tues - Thurs - Nothing

Fri - Got a few hours on the Rock Steady project, hard slab on minute sharp holds. Got all the beta together, but cut open my RI finger pad again, which will take a while to heal.

Hi y'all. Thanks for statting Ross.

Another poor week for training due to work -the only thing I trained was my alpine start tolerance, with 16h+ work days M-Th. Week finished on a high though...

Week 39:

M: Work.

T: Work.

W: Work. 

T: Work. 

F: Work and panic packing.

S: Nice gentle walk in to Triglav north face to check out The Wall -it's an incredibly complex face, route finding looks like it is going to be the crux of most climbs. (Also, farmers lifts carrying shopping bags from one end of Bled to the other -only realising when I got back to the car that I'd been parked next to a supermarket all along!)

S: Solo traverse of Triglav: up the Luknja route via Plemenice (aka Bamberg route) (VF3A), up W face of the summit, down E ridge/Mali Triglav, then down Tomasinki Prag Route (aka Cez Prag) (VF3A). About 18km and over 1800m height gain.

The plan was to recce descents for the north face routes, get a view of the routes from higher up than the valley floor, and get a feel for how much cold weather and winter climbing kit we might need/could get away without. Turned out to be a very useful beta gathering day (take homes: winter has come early -it is quite cold out of the sun, the 'light dusting' of snow seen from the valley is actually knee deep on the ledges, the descents should be straightforward even in the dark). However, on top of the info, the day itself was unexpectedly good! I'd not expected to enjoy the Bamberg and Prag sections (I bloody hate via ferrata) but the surroundings were so great it was hard to be grumpy about them -golden eagle; little goaty, chamois-style things; glorious cloud inversion). And the punter route over Triglav summit was amazing -the via ferrata cables were mostly buried in snow so easy to ignore and it was just a quality mountaineering route -pretty good snow conditions, mostly Scottish II with some tricky sections, masses of exposure and being on my own made it feel a little bit out there. One of the best mountain days I've had for ages. 

Week 40:

M: Work

T-S: At least one route on Triglav, plus sample some of Slovenia's quality sport climbing as a bit of R&R from the terrifying north face!

STG -end Sept:

Climb at four of my 'climb here more' crags (Tick! 5/4).

Climb six of my local to-do list (Fail)

Allakazam (Tick!)

Ultra distance run (Fail)

Three of my big mountain day list (Fail. 1/3).

Keep injury free (Tick). 

MTG -end Dec:

Triglav N Face -hopefully two routes.

Weighted Pull-up: 90kg. 

Max Hangs: 85kg. 

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 5/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 3/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

At least two big, classic alpine goals

Yes! Welcome to the dark side!

Thanks for the admirable job on the stats Ross.

Nice to be away with just me, wife and little 'un, though she has started down the road to "terrible twos" by learning and correctly using the word "No!" with increasing frequency, leading to some fraught bedtimes.

Week 38

M – Nowt. Felt wiped out from Sunday’s efforts, though it might also have been indicative of what was brewing in my guts...

T – Rough guts.

W – Recovery.

T – In between packing, squeezed in a play with the 3" Saxon bar, lifting 86kg on best go. 

F – 3am airport get up – thankfully 22mth old remained relatively dopey until take-off.

S – Beach – even went swimming in the sea.

Week 39

M – Trogir.

T – Premosten.

W – Long day at Kyka National Park waterfalls. Squigg enjoyed her first boat trip.

T – Trogir for lunch & beach with more sea swimming.

F – Homeward journey followed by epic £250 supermarket food n' booze restock.

S – Tired from Squigg’s overnight coughing, but took advantage of a few hours to go back on outdoor project. A bit of seepage coming through, which cocked up the first RP effort. 2nd was much better and was within a whisker (2hand moves) of completing it.  Did a new 7B+ link-up to warm-down.

S – Started feeling dodgy again, with frequent visits to the can.

Afternoon all. Some finger woes this week but seems to be improving.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Rest. Weigh-in at 77.8kg.

T - Moonboard. Right-middle finger still giving me grief on small holds, but the pain feels like it's actually in the bone between the PIP and DIP joints. Weird. Had a similar thing before when I started doing a lot of ~12mm edge hangboarding, so I imagine it'll fade away with time. Perhaps I'm biomechanically cursed to be a bit crap on micros, but I don't know if that's just me being a bit defeatist!

F - Rest.

S - Puppy wrangling!

S - Quick Moonboard session. Flashed "Antlercrafts" (soft, et cetera), and put a good try into flashing "Hmm Maybe", should go next time. Finger tweak calmer than Thursday. Puppy has now learned how to bite things!

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - No-hangs.

W - Rest.

T - Moonboard.

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Rehab right-middle tweak.

Bulletproof fingers.

Thanks Ross. Same for me really. The first maybe half dozen moves are shared with Horny Lil' Devil (7a), which I've done umpteen times, and above that it's been quite heavily chalked and (one of the things that's at times 100% contributed to a definite FOMO over the summer) there's been a large crowd of friends who have been trying it quite regularly and lobbing from high up (I've been told it's about 7b to get to the crux which is the last half dozen or so moves) so I have access to all the beta should I need it. I think most of the start is close to rather than directly above the ledge, so I think that possibly the main risk may be from an uncontrolled fall. 

Another week of nothingness. The start of the week I was slammed with work and had some long days. After the big delivery day I had Thursday off but for one reason and another I didn't manage to get out. Partly this was my own fault but still bitterly disappointing given it was the last day of crisp northerlies before the current south-westerly pattern got established (a bit more swell and slightly higher humidity). Over the weekend there was a brief window Sunday afternoon but apparently there was runoff down the top of things so I didn't miss too much.

Striking a more positive note, I had a physio appointment first thing this morning and have a rehab plan for my leg, last week saw the 3 big deadlines that have haunted my September all pass, I'm supposed to be going to the wall tonight, hopefully some trad this weekend, and with a bit more mental capacity I hope to also have a bit of a thing about how to focus my time for the rest of the year (aside from on rehab, obviously, since I think I need to bite the bullet and get this leg sorted, it will help with my motivation as well as it's more obvious first order benefits like one day being able to heel hook again!)

Cheers Ross. A week of testing and getting back on the board. I slacked off on the gym though.

M - Rest - stretch.

T - Testing - (LancasterWall) Boulder first up to about V5.

20mm half crimp +35kgs, open 3 +30, 1 arm bar hang + 60kgs, 5rm pull up +15kgs, 3rm Bpress 75kgs, 5rm squat 90kgs.

W - Rest

T - Gym - 16 sets over 6 exercises

F - Boulder at BUK (up to V5 - felt very hard) - testing Foot on Campus. 2m 04s down to 28s

S - Went to the gym but it shuts at 6pm on the weekend. Went for a head torch run instead.

S- Boulder up to V6 at Kendal and board problems up to 6C. Hard work. Stretch and shoulder work after.

More bouldering and boards this week I think and get the results back from the testing. If the weather perks up i'd like to get outside but it doesn't look likely atm.