UKC

After tons of research online, i bought a pair of Scarpa Instinct VS.
When first trying them on, it feels like the sizing is perfect for bouldering.
The problem is, I bought it specifically for outdoor sports climbing, particular to stand on small chips.
As I'm rather new to outdoor sports climb, I'm not sure if I could wearing them for 20 mins standing on chips.
Should I get them 0.5 size up?

My street shoe size is US men 10 (EU 43), actual feet size is 268 mm long, 114 mm wide (wide foot).
The size of instinct I bought is US 10 (EU 43).
Inside the shoes, my toes bent quite a bit. I could clearly feel the pressue on my toe when standing up straight, but doesn't hurt (at least for the first 3 min).

For my 1.5 year bouldering experience, I wear a climbx beginner shoes size 9.5 (EU 41.5), fits perfect with toes slightly bent.
I then bought a pair of La Sportiva Solution size 9 (EU 42). In the general, the solution feels much tighter than the climbx beginner shoes.

The thing is, I took the Solution for outdoor climbing a few times. It is good and precise, but hurts a bit when I stand on chips.
After 3 sessions outdoor, I actually injure my foot.
Now the ball of my toe hurts if i put my body weight on my toe (normal walking is fine).

I'm now afraid that, if I wear the instinct for 20 min outdoor, the same injury will occur.
But at the same time, the sizing feels alright if I were to wear them for indoor bouldering?

I don't know if I should upgrade 0.5 size up?
or would 0.5 size up be too loose for outdoor sports climb?
or would the instinct stretch later and become perfect in size?

Thanks for any suggestion.

ps. there's no instinct anywhere in my city, so I could not try them on...

In reply to johnccf:

As with any shoe, there will be a little bit of stretch with the Instinct but they don't stretch lots.

If 43 fits you well for bouldering but is too tight for long routes, going up half a size is likely to give you better comfort (but at a slight loss of edging power). 

But, are you sure that the Instinct VS shape is going to work with your feet? The Instinct VS is the perfect shape for my feet. It is the only climbing shoe I have ever found that is wide enough in the toe box so that I can get the length right without squeezing my toes together painfully. The heel also fits my heel shape perfectly.

The Solution is far too narrow to fit my feet and the heel is far too bulbous for the shape of my heel. I cannot imagine that anyone has a foot shape that fits both the Solution and the Instinct VS well; they are at opposite ends of the fit spectrum.

In reply to SDM:

i'm selling my solution now, it's obviously the wrong shape... haha.
instinct feels much, just not so sure about wearing them at this size for prolonged period of time.
but that could also be due to the lack of outdoor climbing experience?
i often push myself a bit too hard, leading to a lot of injuries. so difficult to tell if i should just get used to it or not...

In reply to johnccf:

Don't buy shoes online. Go to a shop that has lots and lots of choice, ideally with shop staff who know what they're talking about and find a pair that suit your foot shape.

Climbing shoes don't have to be painful, just get a pair that fit 🙂

In reply to johnccf:

Hey,

My feet are a similar size to yours, maybe a touch bigger, and I wear that shoe in 41! That said I’m not suggesting you should get them that size. 

My advice would be to return the shoes for a refund, and go to an actual shop, where you can try them on instead.

I also wouldn’t be wedded to a particular model of shoe, and would go with with whatever fits. Something like a Scarpa Vapour V or Sportiva Katana might be a better bet, as they’ll be slightly more comfortable and more than capable of standing on small holds. I wouldn’t recommend the Instinct as a first (or only) technical shoe. 

Tom

p.s: Where are you based?  

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

but both vapor v and katana are for narrow feet?

In reply to johnccf:

My experience with the Instinct VS was that they seemed too stiff and not so comfortable, for a long time  I switched to VSR and preferred those for ages (4 pairs).  However, I did persevere with the VS and they seemed to eventually break in.  They became my favourite for limestone bouldering, where they maintained their power in the toe but the comfort ended up being perfect.  They lasted years and I plan to buy more in future.

In reply to johnccf:

Im a EU43 and wear a size EU41 as well.

In reply to johnccf: I have these shoes, but am 42 street shoe, 40,5 or 41 for indoor or comfort fit.  I also have a widish foot.

I think you just need to give these a bit of time, and they will stretch a little bit, so I would relax and you should be ok.  I certianly wouldn't go up 1/2 a size.

In reply to johnccf:

No they’re not. I’d recommend that you stop reading reviews on the internet, and obsessing over a particular model. Instead go to an actual shop, with plenty of time to spare, and try lots different shoes on.

Outside in Hathersage would be my recommendation, you can combine the visit with some sport climbing at somewhere like Horseshoe Quarry. 

In reply to johnccf:

In reply to johnccf:

Instinct lace and Velcro seem to fit my wide foot well. I’m a UK8 / 42 in approach shoes, 40.5 fits me well in instincts. Tight but I can wear them for ages. Unusually I think the Velcro’s might fit me even better than the lace. I have a strange bit of dead space under the arch with the lace, sometimes if I stand up on something the air gets forced out making a squeaking noise. I hate the xs grip rubber (lasts 2 mins) but I love the fit... resoled with Xs edge is a bit of an improvement 
 

I often wear shoes in the house for a few hours at least to try and soften them up. What can start of as agony does not take long to become comfortable for me. You can climb is shoes that hurt though. Simple. I’m sure people can climb some really hard routes in shoes that aren’t tight. Downsizing too much is an error 

In reply to johnccf:

For outdoor sport climbing on limestone i have up sized all my shoes (by .5 of a size).Im not an elite climber and i find modern edging shoes like the kataki function well . I have experimented with knuckle down fit and most of the time my toes are locked into that position i lose sensitivity in my footwork.I wear softer shoes(skwama and futura) for steeper angles and the same size seems to work but i go for lower volume shoes to get a tight fit. Definately worth going to a shop when you can.