UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_813-7530...

biscuit: Big volume week. Nice trio of routes at Malham, any of them you keen to seal the deal on?

AlanLittle: Great trip report! Glad it was fun, and managed to get some good routes in the bag. Hopefully the excitement for the next trip is enough fuel for sale good training over the winter.

Somerset swede basher: Glad the lurgy is over. Nice ascent on that 7b-come-7c+, sounds well-earned! Has the recent temperature increase been affecting any evening bouldering sessions?

Liam P: Not much to say, a solid training week indeed. Hope the deload goes well for the pumpy sport trip!

Tom Green: Shame about the illness, but better that it was after the big days out rather than during, I suppose? Best of luck on those STGs, Angel's Wall looks a bit wiggy!

Ally Smith: Can't complain about two days on the rock! Did well to fit that in what sounded like a busy week. Thanks again for the compliments on my Moonboard problems.

AJM: Sorry to hear you've not been able to fit too much training in this week, but I'm loving the DWS optimism! I'll definitely be having a Dorset weekend next summer again, will drop you a line nearer the time.

Derek Furze: Nice work sport climbing and reintroducing the max hangs. Any weight goals in mind, or just pulling whatever feels hard?

SteveJC94: Strong max hang game! Hopefully the elbow clears up, sounds like it isn't too awful and should be manageable with a bit of smart rest and rehab.

Randy: I can definitely empathise with mistakenly expecting things to feel easy. Real kick in the teeth to have caught Covid again, I do hope it's been a gentle bout and you can spring back into action with minimal fuss!

Steve Claw: Well, many people say climbing is the best training for climbing! How long until your 5 year old flashes all your projects?

Strange.  Posted a long post, but it hasn't appeared....

Anyway, despite a really busy week, I have got stuff done so I am keen to post.  In answer to your question Ross, I am planning four-week cycles using different grips and have started on a tips hold that I often avoid!  Not heavy yet, but I expect adaptation will kick in soon.

Mon - Thurs work work work.

Fri. Five sets of six bodyweight pull ups and five sets of ten push ups.  A light session, but busy with admin and climbing planned for Saturday.

Sat seven routes to 6b at Independence Quarry.  Despite an off-putting appearance, the climbing was really interesting - everything was quite technical and sustained and some were reasonably long.  Very enjoyable.  Back in time for some heavy partying.

Sun. Ten sets of hip stretching exercises.  Ten sets of ten push ups.  Four sets of three weighted pull ups at plus 9kh.  Six sets of max hangs at plus 9 kg (last two failed at 8 seconds).

Next three weeks are a little easier so hope to get a good routine going.  Climbing again Tuesday.

Thanks Ross. Better than expected autumn weather at home has us getting a good start on the training campaign for Wings for Life (6a) .

STG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
MTG: April Kalymnos trip with my son: tick at least two things from my wishlist
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    
T:    
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Now I have time for something other than just an emergency endurance campaign, so reintroducing some bouldering to my programme for longer term improvement of my strength & movement repertoire. Felt like I was moving ok initially but powered out quickly. And my shoulder was complaining again a bit, will need to be careful with that.
T:    MTB 1½ hours in the woods. Boy is it getting dark early now. If I want to keep up the midweek bike rides - which I do - I'm going to have to start blocking time for them during the day and catching up on work in the evening. Fortunately I do have the flexibility to be able to do that.
F:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Although considering that the core of the session was running laps on a 20 move roof, not  particularly bouldery bouldering: Grande Grotta in six months here I come.
S: MTB one hour in the woods. Beautiful in the woods in autumn, but also very slippery with the paths covered in wet leaves.
S: Climbing, Ruhpolding. Local-ish crag for a short, easy intro to multipitch for the lad. 2 x three pitch 6a's. The crag is supposedly an old marble quarry - can't say I noticed it feeling any different from limestone.
 Spending the day shuffling up slabs, though pleasant, didn't do much for/to the fingers, so I'm planning to get a few max hangs in before bed.
 

Evening everyone. Decent week from me, dropped Thursday's session to have a nice evening socialising and playing games. Made me think again about where I can squeeze in training midweek to keep evenings free for non-climbing activities. Aside from limited fingerboarding or begging my local wall to let me in early for pre-work board sessions, I don't really think there's much I can feasibly do. C'est la vie, I suppose!

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Moonboard. No big sendz, but felt strong trying two 7Bish projects, one of which is mildly morpho, the other being quite morpho indeed. Thinking of it like training for La Tour de Babel (f7B+)!

W - Rest. Weigh-in at 78.0kg.

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S - North Wales. Tried The Edge Problem sds (V6) for a little while waiting for the drizzle to subside. It ended up getting heavier so we bailed to Manor Crag. After warming back up I finished off The Severed Ear (f7A+) which was good, still felt pretty hard mind!

S - Rest. Tiny bit of soreness on the inside of the left elbow. Think it might have been the brachialis, but it's since faded so much that I can't really find it. A reminder to take care of my elbows, I suppose!

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Moonboard.

W - Rest.

T - Rigpa if weather and partners line up.

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Antagonists!

Bulletproof fingers.

Rigpa.

Thanks Ross, great effort on the stats again. It has been warmer but the bigger issue has been the start of the monsoon season. No real cardio this week as knee still sore but some good climbing/training sessions.

Mon. Rest

Tues. BSMA session. Managed to link the first 8 moves in one, spent the bulk of the session getting the next 4 moves wired. Hoping to add this bit on to my link next session. That would leave me at the step over move which I did 3 or 4 times in isolation today but I've not got it smooth enough to do on the link yet. Slowly getting somewhere.

Wed. Rest.

Thurs. 6 x Max hangs (+31kgs), 4 one arm hangs on each arm (2 off the jugs and 2 off the big 50mm edge. Tried the 36mm edge which is my next smallest but could only do 5 or 6 seconds). I couldn't do one arm hangs last year but I've done 3 sets of 10 shoulder shrugs when warming up all summer and shoulders feel more stable now. Press ups, pull ups.

Fri. Rest 

Sat and sun. Away at a wedding (much eating and drinking) but managed 5x5 pulls ups and 3x10 press ups each day.

Half term now, best get praying to the weather gods!

Good work on the one arm hangs SSB!

Thank you Ross,

As predicted it was another quiet week on the climbing front, with work and bad weather getting in the way.

Thurs - Sport routes in the 6's.

Nothing else unfortunately.

Thanks for the great stats again Ross. A light week with plenty of elbow rehab which means it's now in a much better place.

M/T/W - Rest & elbow rehab

T - Max Hangs - 90% of max - 6 x 10s hangs, half crimp, BW + 19kg. Strength & Conditioning - 5 x 5 Military Press; 10 x 3 Push Ups; 10 x 3 Bar Toe Touches; 10 x 3 tricep dips

F - Rest

S - Headed to Burbage for some bouldering. Managed to get Asylum Sika (f7B) done, though it took me over 10 attempts to get the first move dialled. After that, I moved on to Burbage West for some more mileage and was pleased to flash some more 6Cs and got Mermaid (f7A) done on my fourth go. 

S - Rest

Probably another light week ahead just to make sure the elbow doesn't play up again. SSB's got me psyched for some lamp sessions so I'm hoping for some evening sending sessions on Low Rider (f7C+) and Back Street Mime Artist (f8A) in the coming weeks. 

Hey Ross - yeah it'd be great to see you down here! With wind continuing southerly all this coming week, limited sunshine, and then busy weekends for much of November, I might have to accept that's probably it by now, barring a miracle midweek moment.

Another quiet one from me on the climbing front - rehab, a bunch of walking to/fro and a lot of child carrying, and a few days feeling ill Thursday and Friday. House tidying has made good progress but still things to be done!

Half term this week, so I have a day off mid week. Hoping to get back on the bandwagon this week.

Thanks Ross. Hi all.

An ok week. Got all planned sessions except for one fingerboard/strength. Good prehab discipline -partly helped by the slightest hint of tweaky elbows giving me the fear!

Week 42:

M: Prehab.

T: Bouldering. STG tick with First of Many (none 5b) -hopefully aptly named for the STGs! Fingerboarding and strength sesh.

W: Trail run. 13.6km, 469m vert, 6:49/km. Last couple of km felt a bit tweaky -probably due to doing too much after not running for three weeks (too far and too fast as good old Liz would say!) Prehab. 

T: Drytooling. Warmed up with a quick repeat of Hook me up (D5+) then had three goes on The Velvet Pelmet (D7) -first two working out beta then one good burn, but powered out three moves from lower-off.

F: Prehab.

S: Hill run. 9.5km, 433m vert, 8:13/km. Super techy -felt like it deserved an E-grade!

S: Rest.

Week 42:

M: Fingerboard and Strength.

T: Climbing.

W: Rest.

T: Run.

F: Drytooling.

S: Fingerboard and Strength.

S: Run.

STG -end Dec:

Triglav N Face (TICK).

Stewker (E1 5c)

First of Many (none 5b) (TICK).

The Night Watch (VS 4b)

Gauche (VD)

Minion's Way (HVS 5c)

Roof of the World CD Problem 4 (V1)

Angel's Wall (f5)

The Cruel Crack (f5)

Overhanging Arete (f6A)

Delstree (HVS 5a)

Tufted Crack (E1 5c)

Chelly Express (D7) placing gear.

Three big mountain days >1500m vert.

Ultra-distance run.

Weighted Pull-up: 85kg. Max Hangs: 80kg. (Adjusted down to reflect recent lack of training)

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 4/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 3/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 5/8

(For lists see FitClub 772)

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 3/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

At least two big, classic alpine goals (Tick -perhaps not as hard as I had planned, but definitely big and classic!).

Not much too report this week. I've been down with Covid all week and was just resting. At least symptoms were mild this time, basically a normal cold and already almost gone. Corona test was also negative already on Friday. Will take it easy next week but hopefully i am able to do 2-3 light climbing sessions. 

Dredging the hive knowledge; does anyone have any specific exercises to help with narrow compression?  Squeezing grotty little holds in a roof setting that are barely shoulder width apart?  I might have found a hard new project...

Week 42

M – Another long working day. Nowt.

T – After work: Warmed up with some kettle bell swings, then on to the Moonboard.  Brilliant session – managed 3 new benchmarks. Caveman, 7B+, Southmoves South, 7C and Red Ronnie, 7A+. Finished with 6 sets 3 reps 65kg bench press.

W – Sore; those kettle bell swings ruined by glutes and hamstrings! Evening stretches in front of gogglebox

T – Short board warm-up from 6B+ to 7A then Crimpd 1-arm max-hangs on BM2k central slot. BW-3kg for stronger LH and -5kg for weaker RH. Completed all hangs with 10s duration. Super brief Saxon bar lifts up to 76kg (and fail at 86kg).

F – Nowt.

S – Morning trip to local petting zoo with Squigg.  Afternoon board while she snoozed.  Revisited old BM 6B+ to 6C+ to warm up.  Flashed some of Ross’s high quality 7A problems and then starting trying hard. Ended up being too greasy for proper hard, but managed a 7B+ 3rd go, and flashed a “7C” (non-BMs).

S – Epic garage clean-up with hoover and dust-pan; I must have collected a good 2x bags full of superchalk-y dust.  Mixed in some “Inch” dumbbell lifts up to 65kg for 10s holds.  Then on to Crimpd 1-arm max-hangs on BM2k central slot. Again BW-3kg for stronger LH and -5kg for weaker RH. Completed all hangs with 10s duration (and even fine on a -2kg test on last rep for LH). Saxon bar lifts, 5x5 @66kg.  Bench 4x12 @50kg.

Thanks Derek.

Good work on Asylum Sika. That first move is hard, I had a quick play when I did monochrome and boyager and didn't manage it. 

I’ve been MIA for a couple of weeks but have very little to report despite that as I’ve had a cold for over two weeks. I took my first afternoon off work with illness (as against being in hospital) for 20 years. Normally I shake off colds in a couple of days so this is very weird, not getting very bad but never getting better. 2 negative covid tests and counting.  
Anyway apart from feeling sorry for myself I’ve managed to complete a couple of DIY tasks I’m pleased with (photos below), but it turns out I should have built the log shed bigger and I suspect I need to add some more holds to the board before it becomes useful. Injuries don’t seem to have benefited from the rest, nor has my weight. 
 

Sounds like you need a bullworker  

(Can you tell I’ve just realised you can add photos to posts?!)

Thanks Ross,

Last week was about getting the new training sessions sorted and a peak for my gym work.

I’ve upped my calorie intake (carbs mainly) as well now. My weight/composition was staying steady but my aim with the gym is to put on a bit of muscle.

M – 10 min on 10 min off x 3 at Lancaster on 6b circuit

T – Max boulder – Lancaster DTB -3400 points. 2x 6B and 4 x 6C problems. I feel like I’m getting back into board climbing.

Gym – couldn’t get to gym so did an adapted session at the wall – 21 sets over 7 exercises

W – Boulder UK – Splatter wall – This felt like very alien territory. 5 problems done 2 x 6A and 3 x 6A+.

1on:1off x 10 on circuits between 6a and 6b. Failed on last rep. I was doing this on 7a earlier this year……

T – Gym – 18 sets over 5 sets – felt very hard. Looking back it was the start of a cold.

F – Ended up in Keswick and thought it would be rude to not have a go on the 40 degree Moonboard. I definitely had a cold now and was underpowered but even so it kicked my arse big time. I managed 1 x 6a+ and many failures.

S – Went for a walk – bailed as I had no energy

S – Rest

So, my first gym peak didn’t exactly go according to plan. I was feeling recovered between gym/climbing sessions and was surprised to get a cold. But maybe I was overcooking it a bit.

De load week this week and then I need to decide if I prioritise the climbing training in the run up to a Xmas Costa Blanca trip or stick with my initial plan of the gym being the priority.

Minimalist board. I like it. Much better than those splatter wall things.

Cheers Ross. Last minute post from me!

Mon

• Pinch Block 5x 10s LH(18.5kg) RH(18.5kg)
• 6x 7:3 Repeaters (+5kg) - 2x 20mmHC, 2x 20mm4FD

Wed

Leg Rehab

• Single Leg Calf Raises 5x 12 (13kg)
• Hamstring Curls 3x 8 (13kg)
• Leg Extensions 3x 8 L 52 3x 20 R BW
• Single Leg Leg Press 3x 8 (L 60kg R 6kg Eccentric)
• Back extenders 3x 12 (5kg)

Fifth session of OAPU Club

• Free hand on wrist - 10 reps
• Free hand on bicep - 3.25 reps
• Free hand on shoulder - 1.25 reps

Had a rest week this week so won’t post tomorrow. Just arrived in El Chorro so hopefully a big post the week after con mucho sendage!