UKC

Training for April's Font Trip

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

Hi.

There is an ever increasing possiblity that I will be heading to Font around 16th April 2023.

I read an old article on here that included about training for your 1st Font trip.....

​​​​​​.... Is there are any specific training I need to do? What muscle groups need to trained?

Sav

Post edited at 15:45
13
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I read an old article on here that included about training for your 1st Font trip.....

> ​​​​​​.... Is there are any specific training I need to do? What muscle groups need to trained?

The pride swallowing ones.

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> The pride swallowing ones.

I don't get your reply....

.... Unless you are referring to something else.

Sav

9
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

By the 17th of April you'll understand.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Errr…. no. I think they’re suggesting that the climbing style and grading at Font can be a humbling experience I.e. you will need to ‘swallow your pride’. 

In reply to Wyre Forest Illuminati:

> Errr…. no. I think they’re suggesting that the climbing style and grading at Font can be a humbling experience I.e. you will need to ‘swallow your pride’. 

Yes I have read that a 7b+ sport climber can be shut down on a f5 sloper problem at Font. Matt Groom from Epic TV says start on the easiest circuit to begin with. 

I have looked this up 'swallow your pride'.

Sav

11
 Mark Haward 30 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Going bouldering / climbing as much as you reasonably can. If you get a chance you could visit the sandstone rocks South East of London such as Bowles, Harrisons, Stone Farm. A great introduction to sloping hold climbing with plenty of bouldering if you haven't got anyone to climb with.

In reply to Mark Haward:

> Going bouldering / climbing as much as you reasonably can. If you get a chance you could visit the sandstone rocks South East of London such as Bowles, Harrisons, Stone Farm. A great introduction to sloping hold climbing with plenty of bouldering if you haven't got anyone to climb with.

Thanks for this Mark.

I do have socials planned for the week and another depot trip soon - wondering if I can still get some grit problems done in November.

Sav

10
 TheGeneralist 30 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit

> ​​​​​​.... Is there are any specific training I need to do? 

Just learning the correct name of the destination.  

It's called bleau. Font is the grading system

On a less serious note, slopers and footwork...

You'll love it by the way. It's utterly brilliant 

69
In reply to TheGeneralist:

It's called Fontainebleau but people shorten it. Sometimes to bleau, sometimes Font, never known anyone be a dick about it.

1
In reply to TheGeneralist:

> In reply to Mountain Spirit

> Just learning the correct name of the destination.  

It is called Fontainebleau but The British call it Font. 

> It's called bleau. Font is the grading system

Apparently, that is what the locals call it.

> On a less serious note, slopers and footwork...

Too right, totally - slopers require a pushing movement and not a pulling one, don't they?!

> You'll love it by the way. It's utterly brilliant 

I defo will love it. Looks awe inspiringly amazing.

Sav

4
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> It is called Fontainebleau but The British call it Font. 

Otherwise the conversation would go something like 

"What are you doing with your week off, Steve?"

"Blow"

1
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> Otherwise the conversation would go something like 

> "What are you doing with your week off, Steve?"

> "Blow"

As in cocaine!? 

1
 alx 30 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It depends on your weaknesses but training for pulling on slopers, climbs with hideous polished footholds, and mantles. There’s the classic injury known as Font elbow gained by those who are simply not sufficiently strong in the shoulders and pressing exercises.

In reply to alx:

> It depends on your weaknesses but training for pulling on slopers, climbs with hideous polished footholds, and mantles. There’s the classic injury known as Font elbow gained by those who are simply not sufficiently strong in the shoulders and pressing exercises.

I've been told not to pull on slopers. Hideous footholds and mantels sounds like Stanage to me - apparently Stanage like @ Malham Cove has become insanely polished footholds wise. Push ups and practicing DVFY.

Sav

9
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Be  prepared for the top outs or exiting the swimming pool as it is known, one thing climbing gyms do not prepare you for.

Easy circuits* in font are a great way to master technique and get strong.

You will note that the bleausards have strong upper bodies, this is from all those compression problems, fridge hugging is key.

*all relative

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> Be  prepared for the top outs or exiting the swimming pool as it is known, one thing climbing gyms do not prepare you for.

I know walls do have top out problems and when I go to Sheff again very soon I will use the pool at the hotel. I did top out some problems when I was at  Burbage North last time as Offwidth well knows. 

> Easy circuits* in font are a great way to master technique and get strong.

As far as I know there are circuits with f2 and f3 problems and a children's circuit.

> You will note that the bleausards have strong upper bodies, this is from all those compression problems, fridge hugging is key.

Well there is a one who is in the French National bouldering team.

​​​​​​> *all relative

Sav

5
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sav, 

you need to align your aspirations with actuality.

What have you managed to get up, bouldering wise on real rock, or at a wall so far ?

Aim to get up grade 4s and 5s at the wall, then you might have a cat in hell's chance of enjoying your bouldering trip.

Sorry to be blunt, but you really do need to be realistic.

Ade

Post edited at 21:57
In reply to Ade in Sheffield:

> Sav, 

Ade,

> you need to align your aspirations with actuality.

> What have you managed to get up, bouldering wise on real rock, or at a wall so far ?

Greens and Whites at Depot Sheffield. I am recovering at the moment from a shoulder problem. Toproping F4s at White Spider.

> Aim to get up grade 4s and 5s at the wall, then you might have a cat in hell's chance of enjoying your bouldering trip.

Are you referring to route grades, V grades or Font grades? Will do.

> Sorry to be blunt, but you really do need to be realistic.

I didn't say what I problems I had in mind.

> Ade

Sav

Post edited at 22:23
6
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Just getting from bottom to top, 4's and 5's, possibly a 6a- route grades.

You always talk of ascending 'high' grades, never seen you talk realistically of 'normal' grades.

(I'll let you define those).

In reply to Ade in Sheffield:

> Just getting from bottom to top, 4's and 5's, possibly a 6a- route grades.

Very possible.

> You always talk of ascending 'high' grades, never seen you talk realistically of 'normal' grades.

Depot Sheffield goal for Nov trip: Whites (V0-V1) and a few blues (V1-V3).

> (I'll let you define those).

Sav

5
 mutt 30 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Get use to glassy holds. See how the locals apply pof like chalk and miraculously climb the glass. This may explain the inability of outsiders to find their grade. Perhaps find a way of cleaning pof of all the holds and return font to the masses 

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Have a go at  Marie rose the first 6a in the forest, it took Adam Ondra two goes!

Font 6a is a right of passage and quite tricky,  prepare to be spanked font style!

 petegunn 30 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Do some push ups to suppress the aforementioned "font elbow"!

In reply to petegunn:

> Do some push ups to suppress the aforementioned "font elbow"!

Thanks. Great idea.

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> Have a go at  Marie rose the first 6a in the forest, it took Adam Ondra two goes!

Checked it out on logbooks - looks interesting. I will probably spend a whole afternoon and do it in ten or more goes.

> Font 6a is a right of passage and quite tricky,  prepare to be spanked font style!

La Marie Rose (Red 22) (f6A) suppose to be technical.

Sav

4
 AlanLittle 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Have a look at this excellent video from Vadim Timonov, in which hand other 8B/C boulderers struggle desperately on 6B's in Fontainebleau:  youtube.com/watch?v=0J12qo6hQSQ&

 Wimlands 31 Oct 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

Nice film. Liked Le Participe Present problem….like climbing a large basketball.

‘The finishing jugs are here….really?”

Post edited at 09:14
 Dave Todd 31 Oct 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

That's a perfect video for anyone who goes to Font for grades...

 JLS 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

>"Checked it out on logbooks - looks interesting. I will probably spend a whole afternoon and do it in ten or more goes."

Marie Rose took me 5 years.

Sav, if you want to actually get to the top of something in Font you'll need to be working on yellow problems, maybe the odd orange if you are going well and find one that suits you.

That said, Font is a lovely place to hang out and I'm sure you'll enjoy the vibe if you find yourself at a busy sector.

Post edited at 09:21
 C Witter 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Very possible.

> Depot Sheffield goal for Nov trip: Whites (V0-V1) and a few blues (V1-V3).

> Sav

If you're bouldering at this low level, then I would simply try to boulder twice per week as your training, with some push-ups and pull-ups thrown in if you like, perhaps run 5 - 10km once per week, and then add in as much gritstone or sandstone bouldering outside as you can (possibly 3 times per month during winter). At the same time, watch videos/read about technique and try to do technique drills during your warm-ups.

Typical indoor bouldering session:
1. Warm-up with some mobilisation of shoulders and hips, perhaps a few burpees, pressups, star-jumps.
2. Warm-up some more by climbing for 20 minutes on problems you find easy. For each problem, try to warm-up your brain by doing drills on footwork and body position; perhaps a few other things like one-handed climbing, just using your thumbs (on a slab problem), using one foot, moving both hands at the same time, skipping holds, "flag every move", etc, etc.
3. Get on a circuit where you can flash some of the easiest problems but fail on the hardest, and work through it (e.g. V1 - V3 or V2 - V4). Start on the low-hanging fruit (maybe 4 - 6 problems), then find 2 or 3 problems where you have to try hard (say, V3 or V4 for you), refine the sequence, learn specific movement, etc. Try to complete these, resting amply between attempts, but stop if you start to feel you are getting diminishing returns. Hopefully you should manage at least one or two of these within the session; great if you have one or two to come for next time. But, make sure there is a realistic hope. Apart from these "project" problems, tick a few other things that stretch you a bit but are doable within 3 or 4 attempts. Try to do enough problems so that you feel you have stretched yourself, but not so many that you feel knackered, as being knackered will impede your next session/lead to injury. Stop the session once you feel you can no longer climb well.
4. If you can be bothered, warm down by doing a few sets of press-ups. Stretch, especially your forearms and your hips.

Over the course of a few months, identify the problems you prefer (e.g. slabs or jug ladders) and give focus to the things you feel you are not good at. E.g. I tend to climb higher grades on slabs and poorly on steep, burly things, so I am trying to focus on climbing steep compression-style problems. Since you are going to font, deliberately make sure to give effort to slopey holds. Remember that jug ladders teach you nothing; their only use is to help you build strength if they are sufficiently steep.

With regard to outdoor sessions, it's great to get a taste for a few different places and to see if you can match your indoor grades. The starred problems are more likely to have an accurate grade than the no-star problems; some grades will be soft, some will be sandbags. Ideally, go with someone else who knows the area, or at least someone who can carry a second pad and with whom you can exchange spotting duties. Hopefully this can be a friend who is going with you to Font, and you can encourage each other the whole way.

Best of luck.
 

Post edited at 09:32
 Ramblin dave 31 Oct 2022
In reply to C Witter:

> If you're bouldering at this low level, then I would simply try to boulder twice per week as your training, with some push-ups and pull-ups thrown in if you like, perhaps run 5 - 10km once per week, and then add in as much gritstone or sandstone bouldering outside as you can (possibly 3 times per month during winter). 

I'd agree with this, and from my experience I'd say that the outdoor stuff will probably be the most beneficial part and should be a priority and not an afterthought. One of my defining memories of Font is struggling at some slab, trying to pull as hard as I could on a bunch of matchstick edges and cursing my weak fingers and wishing I'd trained harder. As I was resting after an attempt, an old French guy rocked up, wiped his feet on a tea towel and then just walked up it, ignoring the handholds I'd been so focused on and just palming on the rock instead. I think I still used the handholds a bit when I finally got up it, but focusing on balance and body position instead was what made it possible. That sort of route-reading seems to me to be the big challenge when you get started at Font, and it's really hard to learn it indoors.

 C Witter 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Ramblin dave:

Yep, I agree totally. I think the only problem is light and dry days during winter, but days out on real rock teach you a lot more than days inside, even if days inside are more likely to build strength.

 midgen 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I don't think you need to be climbing any particular grade to enjoy a trip to Fontainebleau. Certainly if you're going to tick classic/hard problems then you'll want to be physically up to it, but there are endless supplies of interesting boulders and easy circuits that pretty much anyone can enjoy wrestling.

Certainly for your first trip, *not* having any preconceived ideas about the grades you're going to climb is probably an advantage

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

start by only drinking small bottles of beer and eating lots of baguettes smothered in smelly cheese. 😁

In reply to AlanLittle:

> Have a look at this excellent video from Vadim Timonov, in which hand other 8B/C boulderers struggle desperately on 6B's in Fontainebleau:  youtube.com/watch?v=0J12qo6hQSQ&

Lovely video Alan. I love the way there is a touch of comedy in the film.

In reply to JLS:

> >"Checked it out on logbooks - looks interesting. I will probably spend a whole afternoon and do it in ten or more goes."

> Marie Rose took me 5 years.

> Sav, if you want to actually get to the top of something in Font you'll need to be working on yellow problems, maybe the odd orange if you are going well and find one that suits you.

Too right.

Would you like to recommend me an area of two with a yellow circuit and an orange one?

> That said, Font is a lovely place to hang out and I'm sure you'll enjoy the vibe if you find yourself at a busy sector.

I am looking forward to being there. First time travelling abroad without family or school.

Sav. 

Post edited at 12:10
 P4riah 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Rocher des potetes is a good place to start

https://bleau.info/potets?locale=en

In reply to Wimlands:

> Nice film. Liked Le Participe Present problem….like climbing a large basketball.

> ‘The finishing jugs are here….really?”

I've seen two videos with Adam Ondra in Font - he fails to get the flash on the Marie Rose but in the longer film does two 8th grade problems, both in just two goes.

Sav

Post edited at 12:43
2
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

> start by only drinking small bottles of beer and eating lots of baguettes smothered in smelly cheese. 😁

I don't drink alcohol anyway.

The smelly cheese will scare the ladies away. 

Sav

10
In reply to C Witter:

> If you're bouldering at this low level, then I would simply try to boulder twice per week as your training, with some push-ups and pull-ups thrown in if you like, perhaps run 5 - 10km once per week, and then add in as much gritstone or sandstone bouldering outside as you can (possibly 3 times per month during winter). At the same time, watch videos/read about technique and try to do technique drills during your warm-ups.Typical indoor bouldering session:

I will try to get two boulder sessions per week.

> 1. Warm-up with some mobilisation of shoulders and hips, perhaps a few burpees, pressups, star-jumps.

I always do this might of warm up before I start climbing.

> 2. Warm-up some more by climbing for 20 minutes on problems you find easy. For each problem, try to warm-up your brain by doing drills on footwork and body position; perhaps a few other things like one-handed climbing, just using your thumbs (on a slab problem), using one foot, moving both hands at the same time, skipping holds, "flag every move", etc, etc.

I remember seeing something like this on Lattice Training and Catalyst Climbing.

> 3. Get on a circuit where you can flash some of the easiest problems but fail on the hardest, and work through it (e.g. V1 - V3 or V2 - V4). Start on the low-hanging fruit (maybe 4 - 6 problems), then find 2 or 3 problems where you have to try hard (say, V3 or V4 for you), refine the sequence, learn specific movement, etc. Try to complete these, resting amply between attempts, but stop if you start to feel you are getting diminishing returns. Hopefully you should manage at least one or two of these within the session; great if you have one or two to come for next time. But, make sure there is a realistic hope. Apart from these "project" problems, tick a few other things that stretch you a bit but are doable within 3 or 4 attempts. Try to do enough problems so that you feel you have stretched yourself, but not so many that you feel knackered, as being knackered will impede your next session/lead to injury. Stop the session once you feel you can no longer climb well.

 

> 4. If you can be bothered, warm down by doing a few sets of press-ups. Stretch, especially your forearms and your hips.

I finish each session with a stretching that includes basic yoga poses.

> Over the course of a few months, identify the problems you prefer (e.g. slabs or jug ladders) and give focus to the things you feel you are not good at. E.g. I tend to climb higher grades on slabs and poorly on steep, burly things, so I am trying to focus on climbing steep compression-style problems. Since you are going to font, deliberately make sure to give effort to slopey holds. Remember that jug ladders teach you nothing; their only use is to help you build strength if they are sufficiently steep.

> With regard to outdoor sessions, it's great to get a taste for a few different places and to see if you can match your indoor grades. The starred problems are more likely to have an accurate grade than the no-star problems; some grades will be soft, some will be sandbags. Ideally, go with someone else who knows the area, or at least someone who can carry a second pad and with whom you can exchange spotting duties. Hopefully this can be a friend who is going with you to Font, and you can encourage each other the whole way.

Great idea. You can rent pads though but going with someone who knows Fontainebleau is a great idea.

> Best of luck.

>  

Thank you.

Sav

In reply to P4riah:

> Rocher des potetes is a good place to start

Thanks.

Looks great.

 JLS 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I've not done much Yellow stuff in Font but the Orange circuit at Canche aux Merciers which I have done, is generally low-ball with good landings. I'd expect the Yellow circuit there to be of a similar friendly nature. If I were you, that's where I'd head.

In some other areas, even at the lower Yellow and Orange grades, some problems can be terrifyingly high-ball. You just need to be prudent and careful to not bite off more than you can chew. Also, a good plan is to check out there is a manageable descent before setting off up a problem.

I think you'd want to visit "Roche aux Sabots", "Franchard Isatis" and "Cuvier" just to soak up the Font atmosphere. Sabot and Isatis apparently both have new yellow circuits so those might be worth exploring but I couldn't say if they would suit you.

Here's a 6A you can try...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/franchard_isatis-1657/crocodile_le...

youtube.com/watch?v=cCdX-8qK9qY&

In reply to midgen:

> I don't think you need to be climbing any particular grade to enjoy a trip to Fontainebleau. Certainly if you're going to tick classic/hard problems then you'll want to be physically up to it, but there are endless supplies of interesting boulders and easy circuits that pretty much anyone can enjoy wrestling.

Too right.

> Certainly for your first trip, *not* having any preconceived ideas about the grades you're going to climb is probably an advantage

Totally. Why is the word not in asterisks though and what is the winky smiley/emoji for?

Sav

3
 Ramblin dave 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Checked it out on logbooks - looks interesting. I will probably spend a whole afternoon and do it in ten or more goes.

It's up to you, but personally I wouldn't get on to long projecting efforts as a low-to-mid grade climber in Font. Firstly it seems ethically dubious - you're going to add a lot more polish by repeatedly slipping off something hard than you would by climbing a whole series of things that you can get up fairly quickly, and this seems particularly bad if you're going to do it on a well-known classic like La Marie Rose. Secondly, it could just be a massive waste of your time - it's quite difficult to spot the difference between "far too hard" and "just about doable" and you could potentially spend a lot of time and trash your fingers without making any progress at all, where I think most people would probably have more fun and learn more if they spent the time going around problems that they could mostly get after a few goes.

 seankenny 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> Have a go at  Marie rose the first 6a in the forest, it took Adam Ondra two goes!

> Font 6a is a right of passage and quite tricky,  prepare to be spanked font style!

Nooooo, please don’t recommend that Sav throw himself at classic problems which he simply is not capable of climbing. It’s not good for the Forest and it’s probably not good for Sav either, given his fairly obvious current level of climbing. 

In reply to seankenny:

It was tongue in cheek.

In reply to Dave Todd:

> That's a perfect video for anyone who goes to Font for grades...

Too right 

In reply to Ramblin dave:

> It's up to you, but personally I wouldn't get on to long projecting efforts as a low-to-mid grade climber in Font. Firstly it seems ethically dubious - you're going to add a lot more polish by repeatedly slipping off something hard than you would by climbing a whole series of things that you can get up fairly quickly, and this seems particularly bad if you're going to do it on a well-known classic like La Marie Rose. Secondly, it could just be a massive waste of your time - it's quite difficult to spot the difference between "far too hard" and "just about doable" and you could potentially spend a lot of time and trash your fingers without making any progress at all, where I think most people would probably have more fun and learn more if they spent the time going around problems that they could mostly get after a few goes.

Too right.

 seankenny 31 Oct 2022
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> It was tongue in cheek.

I’m not sure that’s always appropriate! 

1
In reply to seankenny:

> Nooooo, please don’t recommend that Sav throw himself at classic problems which he simply is not capable of climbing. It’s not good for the Forest and it’s probably not good for Sav either, given his fairly obvious current level of climbing. 

Totally.

1
 AlanLittle 31 Oct 2022
In reply to JLS:

> In some other areas, even at the lower Yellow and Orange grades, some problems can be terrifyingly high-ball. 

Indeed. I remember years ago doing an "easy" circuit somewhere up the hill behind Gorges d'Apremont. As we went further into the forest the blocs got bigger and bigger, until we reckoned one of the last problems, a slippery thrutch up a groove, was a pretty solid E1 5a solo.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> ​​​​​​.... Is there are any specific training I need to do? What muscle groups need to trained?

Ok, less frivolous answer...

If you're at V1 currently, as others have said you're going to be looking at yellow/orange circuit problems (ish)*. Those are horrifically polished at the honeypot areas so don't get too demoralised if you leap out of the car on day 1 full of excitement at cuvier and have a crap time. But walking a bit further from the road or starting from the end of the circuits and working down the numbers can be a wholly different experience. 

As for training, on those problems muscles aren't going to make much difference to how much fun you have. It's more about what you can stand on, how you balance and what's actually usable as a hold.
You need to get used to standing on very very small things. You won't find anything similar indoors because by definition plastic holds are bigger than a screw head. You probably won't really find anything similar necessary on many UK boulders either. If you really want to get a feel for what you'll be working with, glue a 10mm square cut from a credit card to your wall and get used to standing on it. Or, more realistically, lower your expectations for the first few days while you quickly recalibrate your idea of what precise feet means. By about day 3 you'll be routinely using features you wouldn't even notice on day 1 and moving much more successfully.

* - some blue problems might be worth looking at depending on style and how much progress happens by April.

In reply to AlanLittle:

> Have a look at this excellent video from Vadim Timonov, in which hand other 8B/C boulderers struggle desperately on 6B's in Fontainebleau:  youtube.com/watch?v=0J12qo6hQSQ&

Just watched this. Jesus wept. Their beta on the cuvier classics made me vomit in my mouth a little. They deserved the spanking they got there. Should have showed some footage of the locals for contrast.

3
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

The yellow circuit in rocher de corne-biche is lovely, not super polished, nothing super high/committing and in a lovely part of the forest. 
 

be prepared for mantle’s and smearing. I’ve always found hip flexibility very useful while climbing in the forest (handy(or feety) for mantles) 

 JLS 31 Oct 2022
In reply to AlanLittle:

Funnily enough my scariest Font experience was at Apremont. It was on an Orange about 8m tall above a not too great landing. I figured under those circumstances to top-out wouldn’t be too hard. Soon I found I had to commit to doing a mantel off my extended fingers of one hand on a small crimp. I fully expected my fingers to just snap under the load, leaving gravity to take me to the rocks below. I made it but by God it scared the shit out of me!

 Offwidth 01 Nov 2022
In reply to JLS:

I think I remember something similar there.... far from the only scary moment I've had on font oranges. It really annoys me that some locals persist in this daft myth that there is an 'orange' way to climb such problems.

I'm due to meet Sav this month, know his abilities well, and I've climbed most stuff at orange and below in Font. I'll be recommending sensible stuff.

He has bouldered some problems equivalent to easier font yellows outdoors with me (some with mantel finishes), and climbed problems with a good deal more confidence than routes.

Sadly some people regularly miss his sense of humour here (and some obvious hints to his mobility issues).

Post edited at 00:46
4
In reply to goodmorningcaptain:

> The yellow circuit in rocher de corne-biche is lovely, not super polished, nothing super high/committing and in a lovely part of the forest. 

Thanks for this info and suggestion.

> be prepared for mantle’s and smearing. I’ve always found hip flexibility very useful while climbing in the forest (handy(or feety) for mantles) 

I have good hip flexibility.

Post edited at 01:09
4
In reply to Offwidth:

Hi Steve. 

> I think I remember something similar there.... far from the only scary moment I've had on font oranges. It really annoys me that some locals persist in this daft myth that there is an 'orange' way to climb such problems.

> I'm due to meet Sav this month, know his abilities well, and I've climbed most stuff at orange and below in Font. I'll be recommending sensible stuff.

Yes we are meeting this month. I am actually heading to Depot Sheffield next week for more bouldering if you care to join me and Euan.

> He has bouldered some problems equivalent to easier font yellows outdoors with me (some with mantel finishes), and climbed problems with a good deal more confidence than routes.

They were at Burbage North and the first time it was just me and you but the second time it was yourself, myself and Ania. I did them better the second time around.

> Sadly some people regularly miss his sense of humour here (and some obvious hints to his mobility issues).

Yep.

Bye 

Sav

1
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

That’s the one, if memory serves me correct it starts at the bottom of the hill and takes you on a journey round the crag. 
 

oh the other thing is that the patisserie in Milly (au four au moulin) is phenomenal.

have fun and enjoy the forest and the pastry.

In reply to goodmorningcaptain:

Controversial. Le pavé de la halle (I think. It's the one right by the 'halle' on the west side) is the best, and lefevre would be second choice. But one or other will be closed on any given day so you might not get to be picky.

Post edited at 18:04
In reply to goodmorningcaptain:

> That’s the one, if memory serves me correct it starts at the bottom of the hill and takes you on a journey round the crag. 

>

  Sounds amazing.

> oh the other thing is that the patisserie in Milly (au four au moulin) is phenomenal.

> have fun and enjoy the forest and the pastry.

Will do dude.

Post edited at 23:26
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I know someone who I will ask to come with me to Font ....

....He loves slopers and I have a project for him that I  know he can crush.

Gecko Assis (f8B+)

To be continued....

Sav

Post edited at 23:51
10
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

good advice Sav, whether its in Font or bouldering anywhere.

Always gave a walk around the bloc and have a look for the easiest way down. If its ok, then you’re good to go.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

There are some lovely yellow and orange circuits at Apremont which should be great for you. Finish the session at the buvette in the woods near the parking

 Offwidth 02 Nov 2022
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I think those Apremont circuits are far from the most friendly of their colour bands. Even the kids circuit there was scary in places.

2
In reply to Offwidth:

> I think those Apremont circuits are far from the most friendly of their colour bands. Even the kids circuit there was scary in places.

Agreed. 

Probably wouldn't recommend any of the hillside places for a first trip. There's more than enough easily navigated and friendly flat areas to fill a week.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> good advice Sav, whether its in Font or bouldering anywhere.

> Always gave a walk around the bloc and have a look for the easiest way down. If its ok, then you’re good to go.

This is great advice. Thanks.  

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> There are some lovely yellow and orange circuits at Apremont which should be great for you. Finish the session at the buvette in the woods near the parking

There are Orange ones according to UKC but Yellows don't seem to be listed.

Apremont

In reply to Offwidth:

> I think those Apremont circuits are far from the most friendly of their colour bands. Even the kids circuit there was scary in places.

Where would you recommend?

2
 yodadave 02 Nov 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

something that I've not seen mentioned that has helped me enjoy Font is making sure my skin is in good nick. I managed to climb 7 days on while there in |April, which for me on sandstone slopers is an achievement. I made a concerted effort to build up volume 2 months before and avoided doing dishes like the plague haha

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> There are Orange ones according to UKC but Yellows don't seem to be listed.

https://bleau.info/apremontest/circuit13.html is the yellow, https://bleau.info/apremontest/circuit15.html is the orange. #20 (https://bleau.info/apremontest/2577.html)  is one of my all time favourite font problems, but the circuit as a whole isn't one of recommend. Great problems but some grim landings and not the easiest to follow.

> Where would you recommend?

For stuff in your grade range with nice landings and easy to get around Rocher Fin, Isatis, Sabots, 91.1, Potets, diplodocus, Canche aux merciers would be my recs.

Some will be busy/polished but they're roughly what you're after. Like I said above, start at the end of the circuits if you want a lower traffic experience.

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

There is a brilliant Orange circuit at 91.1 pretty lowball the family had a good play.

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

you’re absolutely right, I got Apremont mixed up with Potets

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> https://bleau.info/apremontest/circuit13.html is the yellow, https://bleau.info/apremontest/circuit15.html is the orange. #20 (https://bleau.info/apremontest/2577.html)  is one of my all time favourite font problems, but the circuit as a whole isn't one of recommend. Great problems but some grim landings and not the easiest to follow.

Thank you for this. I am bit that familiar with that website yet.

> For stuff in your grade range with nice landings and easy to get around Rocher Fin, Isatis, Sabots, 91.1, Potets, diplodocus, Canche aux merciers would be my recs

Thanks will check them out.

> Some will be busy/polished but they're roughly what you're after. Like I said above, start at the end of the circuits if you want a lower traffic experience.

Too right.

 TheGeneralist 02 Nov 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Defo go to Canche aux merciers. Phenomenal selection of easy and safe stuff

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Thank you for this. I am bit that familiar with that website yet.

It's pretty hard to beat (sorry UKC). All the circuits, photos of nearly every problem, videos, topos of the places that aren't well covered in guidebooks. Awesome resource. 

Before the days of smartphones and roaming I used to wget the whole site before every trip and we'd carry it around on a tablet. (And yes, it had a "DON'T PANIC" sticker on the back)

In reply to TheGeneralist:

> Defo go to Canche aux merciers. Phenomenal selection of easy and safe stuff

Just maybe don't go on a weekend

 TheGeneralist 02 Nov 2022
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> Just maybe don't go on a weekend

For some reason I thought he was going at Easter  in which case it would make sod all difference as everywhere will be rammed.  But he's not, so you're right enough.

Easter in bleau is amazing. I think the only better thing in the whole wide world is Pfingsten in bleau

The atmosphere is just brilliant.  Take a busy day at the Depot and multiply it by 20.  Then realise there are similar numbers of people at at least another 20 venues in the area.  It's just nuts.

( appreciate this is many people's idea of hell, but I love it)

Post edited at 19:29
In reply to TheGeneralist:

Or go to one of the areas more than a few steps from the car and it's still absolute solitude. Even the top half of the circuits at isatis can be deserted when the first 10 problems are overrun.

Issue with Canche though when busy is that it can get a bit unsafe with toddlers bimbling under you. Seems to be the place to go with a pram, obvious reasons.

For reference, busiest places (that the OP would probably be interested in) are:

Cuvier, Sabots, isatis, 95.2, chats, guichot, elephant, canche. Because they're right by the car park.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

> Defo go to Canche aux merciers. Phenomenal selection of easy and safe stuff

Is this the place?

https://bleau.info/canche

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

Could travel on Saturday spend Sunday in Paris or Fontainebleau village then climb during the week.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Is this the place?

Yes

> Could travel on Saturday spend Sunday in Paris or Fontainebleau village then climb during the week.

Don't be put off climbing on the weekend, just be aware that some of the areas (usually in proportion to walk in length) can get really super busy. Places like Rocher Fin or apremont desert will always be pretty chill.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

> For some reason I thought he was going at Easter  in which case it would make sod all difference as everywhere will be rammed.  But he's not, so you're right enough.

Kind of going Easter. Greek Easter though!

> Easter in bleau is amazing. I think the only better thing in the whole wide world is Pfingsten in bleau

> The atmosphere is just brilliant.  Take a busy day at the Depot and multiply it by 20.  Then realise there are similar numbers of people at at least another 20 venues in the area.  It's just nuts.

Freakin awesome. Great for socializing.

> ( appreciate this is many people's idea of hell, but I love it)

2
 TheGeneralist 02 Nov 2022
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> Or go to one of the areas more than a few steps from the car and it's still absolute solitude.

Not at Easter it's not. You'd have to go to a seriously unknown venue at Easter to get solitude.

Fair enough, 5 years ago you'd have been right, but last year was just insane. Unbelievably busy.  Never seen anything like it in the 37 or so trips I've done there.

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> It's pretty hard to beat (sorry UKC). All the circuits, photos of nearly every problem, videos, topos of the places that aren't well covered in guidebooks. Awesome resource. 

I am lovin the website at the moment.

> Before the days of smartphones and roaming I used to wget the whole site before every trip and we'd carry it around on a tablet. (And yes, it had a "DON'T PANIC" sticker on the back)

 tehmarks 03 Nov 2022
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> Before the days of smartphones and roaming I used to wget the whole site before every trip and we'd carry it around on a tablet. 

Wow. It must have taken some time to scribe it all in stone, especially if you redid it for every trip?

2
In reply to tehmarks:

It was a paracetamol

In reply to Mark Haward:

There is a circuit at Depot Sheffield that is made in Fontainebleau.

9
 stani 01 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Eh??

What does this even mean?

1
 deacondeacon 01 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Are you sure Sav?

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think what you mean is that the holds are carved to replicate the rock in Font!

1
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Are you sure Sav?

I could have misheard Euan. There is a bouldering wall in Fontainebleau village.

It is the Red V3-V5 circuit.

Post edited at 11:49
4
 Offwidth 01 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

For the record I enjoyed your Nottingham visit. It's been a long time since I had a two venue indoor day. Based on that and my wide experience on easier font circuits I'd say you need as much practice indoor bouldering on balance moves as you can, to maximise your enjoyment out there. Play more of the games we tried,  to improve balance and footwork. As I told you, font is harsh on everyone at lower grades, let alone if you have any mobility issues. It's also brilliant if you follow the rock rather than labels.

For the record my font venue advice is to start on some of the white kids circuits (rather misnamed in my view being ideal for new boulderers with lower technical & confidence levels) or adult beginner green circuits (ditto), then move on to easier yellow problems on easier yellow circuits. Completely ignore the grades on yellows, given almost all are plain wrong and even if they were correct they probably wouldn't always apply to your morphology. I recognise if you are climbing with others, some of these venue options might not be ideal as they don't all offer harder circuits/problems):

The best place to start (conditions suiting) is maybe here as there is a White and a Green circuit:

https://bleau.info/loutteville

Here are a few other white options to try for a start:

Telegraphe (back of Trois Pignons/Canche)

https://bleau.info/telegraphe2/circuit334.html

Beauvais

https://bleau.info/beauvais/circuit138.html

https://bleau.info/telegraphe/circuit352.html

There is also a brilliant circuit, quite hard for white, at Sabots, between the parking and the famous but polished yellow.  For some reason I can't definitely locate it... it might be this:

https://bleau.info/sabots/circuit97.html

Post edited at 14:13
 deacondeacon 01 Dec 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Good advice Offwidth. Do you know any of the weaseling style circuits? They were such a good laugh on a rest day.

 Offwidth 01 Dec 2022
In reply to deacondeacon:

Just two...Telegraph and Diplodocus... watch out for hornets though!!

 jkarran 01 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Everyone equates Font with slopiness but in reality the easier stuff (and there is loads of it) is mostly pretty bald slab padding/rockovers or conventional edgy/juggy climbing as the steepness increases. The feet are often the challenge. The impossible mantles, sloper slapping and bear-hugging a giant egg type stuff it's famous for tend to be higher graded.

Ignore the grades they're a total jumbled nonsense until you get to the harder stuff which you won't. Get on some easy circuits, they're a frustrating joy but the line between bouldering and soloing is pretty blurred on some of them and easy doesn't mean easy! A bit of local knowledge will help but also just be prepared to skip the odd problem. Don't climb anything you've not checked you can get down from, it can feel like a pretty benign environment until its suddenly not.

You don't need any specific training but you will benefit from decent fitness, it's a big place, gets hot and some of the circuits are pretty long with a fair walk to them. Also precise feet and good control of your body tension/balance will help, a lot of the footholds are small and slick, you really need to work at them.

I assume you'll be going with someone that knows the place and you but still, carry a map/app and know where you and the car are. Also try the circuits! And go, it's utterly brilliant.

jk

Post edited at 14:38
In reply to Offwidth:

> For the record I enjoyed your Nottingham visit. It's been a long time since I had a two venue indoor day. Based on that and my wide experience on easier font circuits I'd say you need as much practice indoor bouldering on balance moves as you can, to maximise your enjoyment out there. Play more of the games we tried,  to improve balance and footwork. As I told you, font is harsh on everyone at lower grades, let alone if you have any mobility issues. It's also brilliant if you follow the rock rather than labels.

I really enjoyed our two venue indoor day. Too right. I have my chalk game from Fundas 1 and I've bought new chalk.

> For the record my font venue advice is to start on some of the white kids circuits (rather misnamed in my view being ideal for new boulderers with lower technical & confidence levels) or adult beginner green circuits (ditto), then move on to easier yellow problems on easier yellow circuits. Completely ignore the grades on yellows, given almost all are plain wrong and even if they were correct they probably wouldn't always apply to your morphology. I recognise if you are climbing with others, some of these venue options might not be ideal as they don't all offer harder circuits/problems):

Thank you. I was going to ask you this in an email. You know who I am climbing with.

.> The best place to start (conditions suiting) is maybe here as there is a White and a Green circuit:

> Here are a few other white options to try for a start:

> Telegraphe (back of Trois Pignons/Canche)

> Beauvais

> There is also a brilliant circuit, quite hard for white, at Sabots, between the parking and the famous but polished yellow.  For some reason I can't definitely locate it... it might be this:

Thank you for your advice and a great day.

Sav

2
 robertcreer 01 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi, I had my first Font experience this summer. Not ideal conditions as it was over 30 degrees, I had no crash pad and I had to walk a good couple hours there with over 25kg.

I did the Yellow circuit at Apremont Envers and thoroughly enjoyed it. Really cool how you can just follow the arrows scrambling between problems barely touching the ground. I'd say this would be a great place to visit although I haven't been anywhere else yet. The circuit was actually really hard to follow from ground level as many of the arrows were up on top so if you were going back down for a crash pad I would check where the arrows lead you first.

Enjoy! 

In reply to jkarran:

> Everyone equates Font with slopiness but in reality the easier stuff (and there is loads of it) is mostly pretty bald slab padding/rockovers or conventional edgy/juggy climbing as the steepness increases. The feet are often the challenge. The impossible mantles, sloper slapping and bear-hugging a giant egg type stuff it's famous for tend to be higher graded.

There is so much variety at Font. I am addicted to Bleau.info.

> Ignore the grades they're a total jumbled nonsense until you get to the harder stuff which you won't. Get on some easy circuits, they're a frustrating joy but the line between bouldering and soloing is pretty blurred on some of them and easy doesn't mean easy! A bit of local knowledge will help but also just be prepared to skip the odd problem. Don't climb anything you've not checked you can get down from, it can feel like a pretty benign environment until its suddenly not.

> You don't need any specific training but you will benefit from decent fitness, it's a big place, gets hot and some of the circuits are pretty long with a fair walk to them. Also precise feet and good control of your body tension/balance will help, a lot of the footholds are small and slick, you really need to work at them.

During the times when I have not been at the wall I have been going for walks. I am not sure if has helped with body tension but yoga has helped with balance. There are plenty of footwork games.

> I assume you'll be going with someone that knows the place and you but still, carry a map/app and know where you and the car are. Also try the circuits! And go, it's utterly brilliant.

The person I am going with mainly boulders now and I am sure he has been filmed climbing in the magical forest. All I have heard is good things about Font. 

> jk

Sav

1
 Offwidth 04 Dec 2022
In reply to robertcreer:

I've been a few times in the summer now and found conditions were surprisingly OK starting early and climbing in forested areas. Your point about arrow directions is a very good one. I'd add the circuits get modified regularly (especially at lower grades), so part of the guidebook maps and some problems indicated will sometimes be incorrect.

In reply to Offwidth:

> I've been a few times in the summer now and found conditions were surprisingly OK starting early and climbing in forested areas. Your point about arrow directions is a very good one. I'd add the circuits get modified regularly (especially at lower grades), so part of the guidebook maps and some problems indicated will sometimes be incorrect.

What about this beauty as a test project.

https://bleau.info/cornebiche/304172.html

12
In reply to jkarran:

Do you know any good free Apps for Font?

3
 jkarran 05 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Google maps.

I meant have a map so you can find your way into and back out of the woods. It's big and disorienting but there are signed fire-roads if you have a map to make sense of the signs.

jk

1
In reply to jkarran:

> Google maps.

> I meant have a map so you can find your way into and back out of the woods. It's big and disorienting but there are signed fire-roads if you have a map to make sense of the signs.

> jk

Thanks.

I have Google Maps on my phone.

Sav

Post edited at 11:31
 Offwidth 05 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Why do you need anything beyond Google maps and bleau.info? I'd encourage you to check the maps, take notes on the day (many regret not doing this) and not be a passenger but I can't see your need here?

1
In reply to Offwidth:

> Why do you need anything beyond Google maps and bleau.info? I'd encourage you to check the maps, take notes on the day (many regret not doing this) and not be a passenger but I can't see your need here?

I am fine with Google Maps and Bleau.info . I will defo take notes whilst I am there. I don't get your last sentence about my need here.

Sav

 Offwidth 05 Dec 2022
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Why do you need another map for more than interest sake, if others are driving you around and taking you to venues they know?

In reply to Offwidth:

> Why do you need another map for more than interest sake, if others are driving you around and taking you to venues they know?

I don't. Luckily my network provider has free EU roaming still.

1

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...