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Tent for alpine climbing but also valley use.

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 thegrowler1981 27 Dec 2022

Hi all

I am moving to Europe in the new year and looking to buy a 2 person tent that will be fine for ‘summer’ alpine use and waterproof enough for camping in the valley the nights before/after. Was looking at the Black Diamond Hilight which would be fine for up high but would suffer down low in persistent rain (from what I’ve read anyway). Budget around £400.

Thanks

Chris

 DaveHK 27 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

"it isn't completely waterproof and fairs poorly in moderate to strong winds. It's fine for short-duration rain or afternoon thunderstorms, but you'll likely get wet in prolonged rain and snow."

Sounds crap. 

 Exile 27 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

You need two tents. Your valley one could easily be a budget brand and do the job really well. 

 bouldery bits 27 Dec 2022
In reply to DaveHK:

I agree. 

In reply to thegrowler1981:

Check out the Crux range of single skinned tents - they seem to be well reviewed regarding condensation.

I own a tent made by Lightwave, Crux's sister company, and I have been very impressed by its quality and construction, has not let me down on the Lakeland Fells over the last two years, whatever the weather.

 wbo2 27 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981: the crux tents are very expensive.   I've been using a single skin tent for various things for the best part of ten years and would agree with having a second basecamp tent for an easy life on a trip

In reply to Exile:

Sounds like a good plan. Thank you. Any suggestions for both? Perhaps a Decathlon 2 wall tent for the valley use. How about up high on a glacier etc? The BD Hilight is 320 Euro currently.

Thanks

In reply to WildAboutWalking:

I did 3 weeks in a crux single skin in Patagonia 2 years ago and it didn't sell me on the concept. I think there probably *is* a niche where they make sense. (trips where the number of days in basecamp are low, the approach is long and the main target route requires bivvys en route where it can be pitched.) I've never been to Alaska but that might be one place? I wouldn't consider if for the alps unless I knew I was doing multi-day enchainments with loads of Glacier and mountain use and just a day here or there in camp.

If you *need* a single skin tent then you will probably already know it.

 Exile 28 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

As a family we've had Millets and Vango tents that have both been good. I'm sure Decathlon would be a good shout. 

Single skin tents - I've used a (now) old gortex Mountain Gemini and a newer Mountain Hardwear one and found both ok for single nights HOWEVER I have not been using them for their intended purpose - my understanding is they work well above the snow line where any precipitation will be snow, not rain. Even having said this, probably only for a few nights before beginning to suffer I would think. (I've used them as one night pop up tents in Scotland the night before a winter climbing day if the car we have isn't big enough to sleep in. I wouldn't buy one for this, I was given them.) 

 Robert Durran 28 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

What do you mean by "summer alpine use" other than as a valley base. Bivvying on routes? Temporary base on a glacier? Sticking it on a moraine to avoid using huts? Grassy places at the tree line?

I agree that as a valley base you want something roomy, cheap and cheerful - no point in using something expensive where it's not needed.

Post edited at 09:46
In reply to Exile:

Brilliant. Thank you. Will get a Firstlight or Hilight in the sales. Cheers 

In reply to Robert Durran:

Camping on a glacier/snow/in the snow line. But also perhaps a bit lower down let’s say pre doing a route off Plan de l’Aiguille…so suitable for rocky pitches too. Definitely not for bivvying on route, not brave enough for that.

 Robert Durran 28 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

> Camping on a glacier/snow/in the snow line. But also perhaps a bit lower down let’s say pre doing a route off Plan de l’Aiguille…so suitable for rocky pitches too. 

For odd nights like that, a single skin tent can work well. 

In reply to Robert Durran:

Perfect. Thanks 

 Mark Haward 28 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

As others have said I would recommend using two tents. A cheap and cheerful but spacious / waterproof tent for valley use. If you have luggage space I would recommend one that you can stand up in and also sit in in a chair for any of those pesky rainy days in the valley. Decathlon have a basic Quecha one for £140.

    A second single skin tent ( or bivvy set ) for time spent higher up when you don't want to use huts. I have never used one but again Decathlon stock a Simond single skin tent for £400 - I have heard good things about them but as I say - no personal experience. 

In reply to Mark Haward:

Awesome. Thank you for the advice all. 

In reply to thegrowler1981:

Get any old tent for staying on Valley campsites.

Spend the money you’ve saved on staying in Huts, or bivi. If you’re up high the weather’s going to be great. If it’s raining you’ll be going f down. 

 DaveHK 29 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

> Camping on a glacier/snow/in the snow line. But also perhaps a bit lower down let’s say pre doing a route off Plan de l’Aiguille…so suitable for rocky pitches too. Definitely not for bivvying on route, not brave enough for that.

If that's your intended use then you probably could get one tent for both that and valley camping but it isn't the BD one you seem so keen on which is a niche product for very niche conditions.

Post edited at 06:06
In reply to DaveHK:

I’m not set on it Dave. If you have any suggestions please let me know. Budget is adjustable for the right product. Only reason I’m looking at the BD one is because it’s available for shipping to where I will be living.

In reply to thegrowler1981:

I think I’m going to save up for a MSR Access 2. Anybody used this tent? Reviews look good.

 DaveHK 29 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

No specific recommendations but something twin skinned that is relatively free-standing for the rocky pitches. Plenty of options from a variety of manufacturers. 

 wbo2 29 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981: If I was camping on route I'd much rather have a single skin over a double for the ease of getting th thing to stay up.

But if I was doing routes off the Plan I'd likely just bivvy behind a rock

 Exile 29 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

I would view a single skin tent as a beefed up bivi - it gives you a bit more protection, can be warmer, and as long as you haven't had a catastrophic fall out with your partner better morale in a shared space if it isn't all going quite to plan. 

For your described purpose it sounds like what you want; the advantage of a single skin (space and weight saving) over a free standing two skin tent (more comfortable for multiple nights) is considerable. 

What Tom said about huts is worth thinking on, but the €400 cost of a tent won't buy you and a partner many hut nights, and in certain circumstances being closer to an intended route (because you are in a tent closer than the closest hut) can be helpful.

And it obviously gives more versatility.

(Having said this, there are obviously times when a hut will win out hands down - the walking in through the rain because the weather tomorrow will be stella situations for example.) 

In reply to wbo2:

Hmm this is turning into a minefield lol. MSR Access 2 looks decent…but is a double walled tent. Definitely would fare better in a sudden shower.

 DaveHK 29 Dec 2022
In reply to Exile:

> For your described purpose it sounds like what you want;

Sounds like they want a tent for camping up high as a base to do routes from. I don't think a single skin tent's advantages or a double skin tent's disadvantages really come into play for that.

Post edited at 11:34
 Exile 29 Dec 2022
In reply to DaveHK:

If one or two nights trying to stay light a single skin would be good, if longer and establishing a 'basecamp' then I'd agree - a proper tent. 

In reply to Exile:

Yeah just this. If anyone has a better idea than the BD ones that’s readily available please let me know. Will be buying one in the Netherlands so choices maybe limited…cheers all

 jimtitt 29 Dec 2022
In reply to thegrowler1981:

Buying in the Netherlands means you have the choice of all the European specialist tent manufacturers of which there are literally hundreds.

In reply to jimtitt:

Ok awesome. Cheers


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