UKC

UKC Fit Club week 825

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 Derek Furze 08 Jan 2023

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_824-7552...

I'm still pulling together responses from various threads, but hopefully it will settle into the weekly pattern from now on.  I hope I haven't missed anything!

Stats:

Steve Claw:  Forgot to report my post-Christmas weigh in – also plus 2.5kg, though it had been creeping up with all the hotel stopovers that I had over the last few months.  Getting anything approaching keto is pretty difficult on the road.

Good that you have got some sort of rehab on the go.  I do remember doing a little often when I was working on my injured elbows and I seem to remember adjusting the working weight on an eccentric exercise to provoke a bit of pain (?).  It is a while ago, so can’t really remember the detail, just that it worked really quickly and hasn’t returned.

Tyler:  Frustrating to have got the exercise tool in place with new holds going on each week, only to find that you are aggravating your elbow!  I do remember that (in the olden days) people used to say that steeper walls were less damaging for your elbows, but it didn’t particularly fit with my experience.  Anyway, sore for a week is really difficult as that kind of intense injury will really inhibit training.  Forced rehab is in order!  Have you identified any particular trigger (type of move / loading etc.?).  Perhaps it is tying the laces on your fancy parkour trainers?

Probably obvious, but I’d focus on rehab (which might include training depending on the diagnosis).  I’d want to know that the work was likely to be making it better, rather than worse.  After all, the rock season is a fair way ahead, so plenty of time to put work into getting it fixed.

A useful low-carb app available through a practice that I worked with recently (freshwell low carb).  They have nationally impressive weight-loss results and about 70 type 2 diabetes remissions over the last couple of years. 

Randy:  An impressive holiday week there with five days on the spin and some lengthy sessions included.  Sixty or seventy problems is significant, even at a relatively easy standard.  Good to see the handstand skills recovering and some good levels being achieved with weighted pull ups.  Now that I have a bit less work, I am starting to plan these on my weekly schedule again, but I expect them to remain as difficult as they did before!  After an Autumn of only sporadic training, I’ve got a bit of catching up to do, but it is a good time of year to start!

Looking forward to the goals appearing.  I saw your summary however (I think it missed my last weekly return) and was astonished to see how little time you spent on rock.  Hard to imagine how you can target Slimline on 25 climbing days a year!  There was some decent progress when you did string a few days together, so I really hope you can get some consistency going this year.  I agree, your pull up strength has developed progressively over the year and you are now pulling some decent sets with quite some weight.  OAPU looks to be getting closer.  If you keep managing training week’s like the last one, you will make great progress!  Agree – ‘a very good week’ – well done!

SSB:  Yes, one-arm hangs are something I keep meaning to do!  They feel very shoulder-intensive when I have tried them (and I think this is Ross and Ally’s experience), so it would probably be a useful thing for me to develop.  50% added weight looks very close – an extra kilo should be possible though I guess you may already be redlining!  I’ve been working on finding a 1RM on a new grip and it is surprising how high I am having to go – two sessions in and the weight is still climbing, but I think I am close to struggling to bash out ten seconds now.

I’d forgotten the Windy Ledge stuff.  I have been on some of these many years ago, but I don’t remember getting very far.  I’d be up for messing about on those as it would make a good training session and there are other routes to fit in as well.  I’ve a lot more time as things stand, so availability should be better through to April.  Keep in touch.  What about Millstone?  Have you completed the list there?

Ross Barker:  Given that you are nursing an A2 pulley injury, that is a really impressive week – ‘pretty stellar’ indeed!  Good effort getting back to the Dug Out to progress the stuff started a week or so ago (and indeeed – earlier this week with Douglass!).  If you can carry on with the ‘hardest single move I’ve ever done’ while working on rehabbing your finger, then there is no telling what 2023 will bring (other than a wedding obvs!).  Good to see that Rigpa has rolled over to another year! 

Very inspiring stuff!  Good to get out in the depths of the holiday season and put some difficult sequences to bed.  Both SSB and yourself have made me reconsider bouldering, which I did used to enjoy years ago.  I really will have to start taking the mat out – perhaps a first step is to move it from the garage to the car?  Certainly a good way to complete a lot of relatively hard moves and to keep moving and warm.

Alan:  An excellent start to the Leonidio trip and to 2023!  Good to see that finding people to climb with seems to have worked out ok and that you are managing to get a reasonable amount done.  Hopefully, that will continue through the rest of the trip.  Given that you were worried about developing your climbing fitness through the skiing season, it looks like you have found a good solution – get yourself off to the sunshine and put away some lengthy, steep Greek limestone!  Mind you, if the things I am hearing about the snow cover are anything to go by, you may have more luck skiing in Greece as well.  Chamonix certainly seems really bare with the snowline at typical summer levels.  I guess it can change fairly quickly.

Inglesp:  A great time of year to put together a ticklist and as I suggested previously, I enjoyed the reminder of old times.  A few of us have spent time in Bristol, so you might find a few suggestions for Avon and the Wye Valley coming flooding in!  I noticed that Laughing Cavaliers isn’t on the list, but presumably one that you have ticked already?  There is also No Musketeers (with the direct finish) which cis also excellent.  To be fair, all of those routes are really good, so you could pick any and have a good experience.    I’ve done loads at the Yat, Wintours Leap, Avon, Wyndcliff and Shorncliffe, but have never been to Ban Y Gor, so keep meaning to make a trip back to old stomping grounds, particularly as one of my partners has an affection for Symond’s Yat.

Good objectives with the wall training and as Steve remarked, that sort of standard is well in excess of the technical challenges of HVS.  There is something different about rock though!

OP Derek Furze 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

part two

Ally:  Nice that your goals for this year are pretty similar to last year – you have obviously got the right things targeted and know exactly what you want to do! 

The week 52 sessions sound quite punishing on the bike and it looks like you did something on most days.  BW+55kg seems seriously heavy duty stuff on the fingerboard – every time I make more progress, the goalposts move yet further away!  I’ve been shifting my loads up since starting back a couple of weeks ago and it is interesting to see that I haven’t found the limit yet on my new grips, but I’m fairly sure it won’t get that high anytime soon.  Good to see what can be done though with application.  Interesting that you completed a full set after you had worked your way up to +45kg in the first place – that alone would probably have wrecked me.  Now where did I put my age card, as I think I may need to play it soon!?

Also interesting numbers for you on Tom’s annual round-up thread, with a remarkably low total number of routes achieved.  As you say, perhaps reflected your goals a bit, but impressive to climb that hard with so few routes in total.

Tom Green:  I’m with you on the Alpine bucket list!  I dream regularly of some long, largely rock routes above Chamonix, but don’t put the time aside to get any done.  A bit silly when my brother has a brilliant view of Les Dru across to Mont Blanc from his sofa!  Mingulay also looks brilliant, but I’ve got a long list in Scotland already, without adding in a venue with really difficult access!

I do like the splitting up of targets into time periods and have adopted this more detailed approach on my training spreadsheet (yes; sad I know).  I spent a lot of last year aiming at completing a lot of my targets in the Autumn, only to get swallowed up in work, so I have put plenty of ‘must visit places’ and grade targets into the pre-April slot.  I’m hoping that this gives me easy venue targets that will inspire more days in the hills.

Boxing Day swim is beyond the call of duty.  Well done for braving the cold.

SteveJC94:  Wow – some great goals Steve!  Certainly pushing the standards there.  The training goals are simple as well – a very clear and easily measurable goal on max hangs, though that is a significant load to be carrying.  Impressive, but clearly attainable with some application.  To be honest, every time I test on a new hold, I am a bit surprised how the weight keeps climbing, so I guess I shall push my percentages higher this winter.

Good to hear that the shoulder (tear I think?) is responding well and that you can boulder hard on the wall at least.  The Saturday session on the circuit board looks impressive.

AJM:   A nice simple end of year review with some interesting reflections.  The early injury seemed to be a nagging feature throughout the year, so good to hear that injuries are on an upward trajectory.  Good to see plenty of rehab in the mix over the holiday – easy to forget the stuff that actually puts things right!  Liam is focused on hamstrings, so there is a Dorset theme going on…

Nice goals.  There is a lots to be said for getting away from the familiar – just so much more motivating to be looking at something new.  I always thing that the Wye area is surprisingly varied with a good mix of trad and sport as well.  Presumably, the South Wales sandstone is accessible as a day trip as well?  The child unfriendly locations are a bit of a challenge if you are thinking of Swanage and Portland – is the South Devon stuff any better?  I seem to remember climbing at some quarried bit near Berry Head that had a lawn at the bottom, but we are talking 45 years ago…  Obviously, some of the Dartmoor venues would be great for kids.  A real challenge though finding enough options that work for kids and serious climbing – as I remarked last week, at that stage of my life I just went out for evenings, which worked because I was in Chesterfield.

Biscuit:  No doubt hammering the Costa Blanca so too busy to file a report.  I expect we will hear from him soon!

Liam P:  Too modern for me – I’ve no idea what goblin-mode might be, but if it proved a deload week then I am all for it!

Have you got hard ice on the plan this year?  I know you struggle with time, family and your local network, so have sensibly backed of stating a load of impossible to achieve targets, but a trip to Norway or whatever is a different thing.

I like the specific training goals – good progress on OAPU for you - I think you started from a strong position with weighted pull ups and have continued to build impressively.  I am working on a platform to join in a bit more seriously now that time working is a bit more relaxed.  I also like the hamstrings work – I’ve included this as it is easy for me to neglect (too hard!), and it is a good supplement to all that I am doing on hip mobility.  I think my split percentages are getting better already and most of my hip stretches are becoming more flexible now.  Just need those hamstrings to lengthen!

The Sheep:  come back whenever you are ready.  We’ll all be here!

Post edited at 12:54
 Ross Barker 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Good evening all, excellent stats Derek, you're off to a strong start there.

> Ross Barker:  Given that you are nursing an A2 pulley injury, that is a really impressive week – ‘pretty stellar’ indeed!  Good effort getting back to the Dug Out to progress the stuff started a week or so ago (and indeeed – earlier this week with Douglass!).  If you can carry on with the ‘hardest single move I’ve ever done’ while working on rehabbing your finger, then there is no telling what 2023 will bring (other than a wedding obvs!). 

Cheers, I think the past few months of board climbing and fuelling sessions well is to thank for that. However, I do think that going so hard on the board was counterproductive on the finger so I'll continue taking a slightly more conservative approach for the time being, which conveniently suits the dugout stuff quite well! Wedding is actually 2024, hah, honeymoon destination discussions are in play so I can try and get a little climbing in if possible!

> Both SSB and yourself have made me reconsider bouldering, which I did used to enjoy years ago.  I really will have to start taking the mat out – perhaps a first step is to move it from the garage to the car?  Certainly a good way to complete a lot of relatively hard moves and to keep moving and warm.

Do it! Your location seems good for some easily accessible western grit when the weather improves.

A decent week from me, a sluggish but fun (and not counterproductive) board session, plus a good productive dugout session cranking some hard new moves.

Lacklustre on (p)rehab, but not a bad start to the year.

Last Week:

M - See last week!

T - Rest.

W - Moonboard. Lots of flailing, didn't feel tired from Monday but could well be the reason. I think I did an alright job managing the dodgy A2. Came up with a new one, "Beginning Bigness" which generally stays on nice holds. Also tried "Shoulderness" at the end of the session but too tired to make any meaningful impression! Ice baths before bed.

T - Rest. Weigh-in at 78.4kg.

F - Rest.

S - The Dug Out. Was working a new eliminate of A Shropshire Mon (f7A+), sussed all the moves and made some promising RPs. Should be a goer when fresh. Probably around 7B/+? A bit harder than the original. Ice baths before bed.

S - Rest. Hopefully ice baths before bed!

Next Week:

M - Dugout?

T - Rest.

W or T - Indoor session.

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Sort out the A2 injury.

Antagonists. D'oh!

Rigpa.

Post edited at 17:29
 AlanLittle 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for another comprehensive write-up. I'm back from my trip and have no plans to do anything else this evening, so I'll get my report in early:

STG: Winter 23 - do an actual off piste ski tour - maybe. Astonishingly little snow flying over the Alps today.
MTG: April Kalymnos trip with my son: tick at least two things from my wishlist
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823

M:    Leonidio: Rocspot. More top notch 6b/c face climbing. Classic unsuccessful second go redpoint attempt on Higgs Boson (6c): got through the actual crux just fine, but had somehow left another tricky section just afterwards out of my mental map of the route. But I took an honest fall while going for it, no takes, so that's a success. Was too tired - mentally more than physically - for a third go today. Another excellent route, one to come back to someday.

T:    Leonidio: Hideout. This place is just amazing, probably the best 6th grade sport climbing crag I've ever been to. Immaculate tufa-covered rock in a beautiful location right above the sea, complete with a hairy sea cliff approach to make Brits feel at home. I had booked a coaching day with a guide to get me out of my vert crimping comfort zone and address my weakness at steepness; picked up some useful technique tips that will hopefully help in the long run, but even on a toprope one day's coaching wasn't enough to get me up the probably-great-if-you-like-that-sort-of-thing Tufa Column ext. (6c+) (probably not 7a+, but still too hard for me) 

W:  Lie-in, brunch, siesta, stretching, dinner. I think I'm finally getting the hang of this "rest day" malarkey. Desperate attempts at finger care and skin regrowth.

T:    Leonidio: back at my new favourite crag, Hideout. Was pleased to get a second go redpoint of the straightforward but pumpy Pelops (6b+) (6c), and depending on which guidebook you read three or four 6b's, but the highlight of the day was grinning my way from one perfect tufa jug to the next up the fantastic Lenga (6a+). The only real fault of this route is that at ~25 metres it's over too soon: 2023 will have to be a pretty stunning year for it not to feature in my end-of-year "best routes" roundup

F:    Leonidio: Sabaton. My partner for the day had a severely bruised heel - don't fall off on slabby easy ground at the start of routes, kids - so he didn't feel up to walking far which limited our choice for my last day to either of Leonidio's two roadside sectors. We picked this one.
    Had a play on Attero Dominatus (7a) but it has a powerful crimpy crux that turned out to be unrealistic for me today, with trashed tips and the last time I tried a 7a over a year ago. Glad I tried it, and a an easy and relaxed onsight of Fuck the System (6b+) was a decent consolation prize before hopping in the car and driving to Athens.

S:   Long walk around Athens central districts, stopping at a few museums & cafes en route
S:   Home

So, my solo trip to Leonidio. Success. With regard to climbing partners it worked out fine. I was quite stressed when I arrived about not having anything sorted in advance, but already on the afternoon of the first day I met up with a super friendly Greek team and did some routes with them. Things went uphill from there, to the point where after a week I had more potential climbing partners than remaining climbing days. I got on really well with all the folks I met, and two of them I will hopefully see again back home. 

Climbing wise there were no super proud repdoint ticks, but climbing with strangers and not being particlarly fit I didn't expect any. 6b+ flash & onsight and a quick 6c redpoint - excellent routes and anti-style steep tufas - were as much as I realistically expected, plus a lot of 6a/b mileage on long pitches that will give me a decent fitness base for my spring training campaign. And I discovered two sectors that I hadn't visited on my previous trip, that are both absolutely world class climbing at my current level but totally different in style. Orama/Rocspot: verticalish face climbing. Hideout steep(er - not the Grotta) tufas. 

Post edited at 17:52
 Randy 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

> Looking forward to the goals appearing.  I saw your summary however (I think it missed my last weekly return) and was astonished to see how little time you spent on rock.  Hard to imagine how you can target Slimline on 25 climbing days a year!  There was some decent progress when you did string a few days together, so I really hope you can get some consistency going this year.  

Thanks for the Stats Derek. Consistency will remain the challenge this year, as i will probably keep doing these trip on a regular level and will struggle to get much more days in on real rock. So i just need to work with these circumstances, make the best out of them and be a little bit smarter with my training this year.

Recap last week:

Mon: Indoor Bouldering, Elements wall, did two crimpy 6c boulders after a couple of tries, then did 5 6a/6a+ problems on the Kilterboard (40° angle). Weighted Pullups + 12 kg with 3 min rest: 3x10, 9. Still felt a little bit tired and my sleep rhythm was still off after New Year's Eve. 

Tues: 2x20s L-Sit, Handstand training, 10 fingertip pushups, 30s V-Situp, 30 Pushups, 18 Lunges, 25 BW Squats; 

Wed: Indoor Bouldering, Elements wall: one 6c problems after a couple of tries and a couple of 6b/6b+ flashes. Projected a 6c+ for quite a while but could not get all the moves done and was shut down on a couple of other 6c+ problems. Weighted Pullups +12 kg with 3 min rest: 4x10 (slightly bad form on last rep). Felt better than on Monday. I have the feeling that my fitness level is progressing, but i am also not fully recovering from the volume, which was to be expected

Thurs: Indoor Bouldering, Elements Wall. Another high volume, lower intensity session. Did around 60-70 boulders in about one hour way below my flash level (probably around 4b to 6a+), down climbing most of the problems. Increased the difficulty a little bit and threw in a couple of harder problems. Pump-Level probably between 4/10 and 7/10 after the harder boulders

Fri: 2x20s L-Sit, Handstand training, 10 fingertip pushups, 30s V-Situp, 30 Pushups, 20 Lunges, 30 BW Squats; Handstand keeps improving, could hold it a couple of times for 3-5s without a wall start

Sat: Indoor Bouldering, Elements wall: got back to the 6c+ problem from wednesday's session. Could do it in two overlapping parts but lacked the power to put it together. Went to the Kilterboard (40°) afterwards: did 3 6b+ boulders and 4 6a+ boulder (2 of them as flash). Weighted Pullups + 12kg with 3 min rest: 4x10 (all reps with good form). I am finally starting to get more used to the Kilterboard, though the lower grades still seem a little bit all other the place. Some of the 6a+ that i tried were definately much harder than the easier 6b+ problems

Sun: Indoor Bouldering, Elements wall: Managed to the send the 6c+ that i've been working on the whole week after a couple of tries were each fell on the first two moves. I was pretty knackered afterwards but went to the Kilterboard anyway. Set the angle to 30° this time which was a nice change for my beaten shoulders. Send around 16 problems in 6a to 6a+ in around 45 minutes. Finished the session with bodyweight pullups: 5x12,11 with 3 min rest

So the christmas training camp has finally come to an end and i am so tired that i am actually looking forward for doing nothing tomorrow on my 10h flight to India . All in all, i am pretty happy with the last weeks. I could feel that my fitness level was improving and i was able to send hard boulders although when i was tired. So hopefully this will give me a good base to work upon for next training blocks. Next week will be a Deload Week and i hope that i could get some decent Fingerboard in on my second week in India, when i am hopefully recovered from the travel and jetlag.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, an epic stats again, don't feel like you need to devote so much time to it! It used to take me an hr just to do a couple of lines each so this must be takes you ages.

Yep, lots to do at millstone too, I think it's just Edge Lane that I've done. Keen for all of these when it eventually stops raining.

Mon. Foundry ropes. Leading: 6b, 6b, 7a, 7a+, 7b. Toprope. 7c (one fall), 6b. 6km run in the eve.

Tues. Rest.

Wed. Drytool session with Tom at Masson. 5 tie ins and some epic pump! Lots of fun.

Thurs. Rest 

Fri. 1.5km swim and 20km hilly cycle.

Sat. Foundry ropes session. Leading 6b, 6b, 7b Toprope 7b+ (one fall), 7b+ (clean), 7a+, 7a, 7a+, 7a (fail just below the top), 5+. 3km 'run' as part of kids orienteering.

Sun. 7km run at adult pace.

OP Derek Furze 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Ill on New Year's Day and still recovering on Monday.  Generally a bit under the weather all week really.

Tuesday Max hangs on new grip - three finger pockets.  Finding the level so did 15.9, 17. 18.1, 19.2 and 2 sets of 20.3 kg.  Already at 131% and feels like there is some way to go.  Six sets of ten push ups.  Six sets of hip and hamstring stretches.

Wed  Five sets of six BW pull ups.  5 x 12 push ups and five sets of stretches/

Thurs - childcare too tired

Friday Max hangs  three sets at 19.3, the 20.4, 21.5 and 22.6 (now at 134.4%).  Progressing okay and getting closer to the limit now.  Five sets of seven pull ups BW.  6 sets of 12 push ups and five sets of stretching.

Saturday fell downstairs so a bit to bruised for planned training.

Sunday Weighted pull ups test at 4.5, 6.8. 7.9. 9 and 10.1 kg - all sets of three.  A short session due to pain from fall, but on the mend.

Quite pleased with the week, despite illness and the fall!

 Ross Barker 08 Jan 2023
In reply to AlanLittle:

Excellent trip write-up, sounds like a great time!

 AJM 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

> AJM: A nice simple end of year review with some interesting reflections. The early injury seemed to be a nagging feature throughout the year, so good to hear that injuries are on an upward trajectory. 

Yeah, it's a lot more encouraging to feel like things might be on a road back to normality again!

> Nice goals. There is a lots to be said for getting away from the familiar – just so much more motivating to be looking at something new. I always thing that the Wye area is surprisingly varied with a good mix of trad and sport as well. Presumably, the South Wales sandstone is accessible as a day trip as well?

The Wye is about 2h15-30, about the same as Hay Tor area, with the South Wales sandstone probably ~3-3.5h so veering into night away or short weekend territory. There's a fair amount there (S Wales) I've not done so it is somewhere I'm keen to spend more time. I've done a lot more in the Wye when I lived in Cheltenham, but still plenty of GO wall adventures still to be had!

> The child unfriendly locations are a bit of a challenge if you are thinking of Swanage and Portland – is the South Devon stuff any better?

Dartmoor is obviously great, some of the south Devon limestone is probably ok - you could set up a base camp near Empire of the Sun I think, and if you could get the kids down there safely then once you're there LPQ is quite amenable I think, and there are probably others.

> A real challenge though finding enough options that work for kids and serious climbing – as I remarked last week, at that stage of my life I just went out for evenings, which worked because I was in Chesterfield.

A regular evening out would be a huge improvement over 2022 in terms of performance climbing time - particularly if I tagged a half day holiday onto it - the sea level west coast crags are usually greasy until afternoon so arriving after lunch and climbing til sunset is the name of the game anyway. But even without that you can get a decent evening of bolt clipping in at a number of places near here when the evenings are long.

 biscuit 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. I have a two week update to give after my holiday. I kept thinking i needed to post but just never got round to it. I have read last week - thanks for all the book mentions, the cheque is in the post!

A very strong start to your statting stint, thanks on behalf of us all.

The trip was a really good one. I felt I’d stepped up a bit all round. I was surprised I felt quite strong and my ability to get through intense sequences was also good. This was a surprise as my core muscle tear kept me off this type of training for 3 weeks when it should have been at its peak.

Recovery was good enough, but  (as I noted before I went away) I was getting pumped quickly. 

The idea was to take the first couple of days easy and to keep it low stress I quickly clip sticked up routes and then went for a send go. This gave enough confidence to climb positively, but left enough doubt for things to go wrong. I really enjoyed this approach and stuck with it. I didn’t onsight anything over 6c.

After the first two days we switched to 1 day on/off and went for walks on the rest days. These were probably a bit long/hard to really count as active rest, but we enjoyed them. I think we had 8 climbing days.

I didn’t get on the route I really wanted to have an on-sight attempt at due to conditions and then it being very busy. I quickly ticked a couple of routes I’d previously found too hard and/or scary, which was a good feeling. I also spent a day working a 7b+ where the hard climbing was about 5m long at most. After training for long, endurance, routes this was probably a bit silly, but I was really close and it was great climbing so no regrets.

I can’t remember where we went each day and in what order I did things so I’ll list the crags we went to and what I did at them.

Castellet de Calp

The 7b’s are more hard 7a and 7a+.

The Juggler (7a)

Poison Ivy (7a+)

Suero (7a+)

Sleepyhead (7a)

Shogun (7b+) This was the short one I failed on. Weird conditions caused me to slip out of the crux pockets on 2 goes when i thought it was in the bag. I changed my beta but was too tired by then.

Las Cerezas (Garx)

Tetrix (7a+) Previous failure quickly ticked

Memoria de Pez (7b)

Rincon Bello

Discriminación positiva (7b) Previous failure quickly ticked

Aixorta - Nevero

Que Pollas Frias (7b)

What a crag and what a route. We’d heard people had been going to this shady, Summer, crag and finally chanced it on the last day. If you’re in the area you have to go. Way steeper than it looks. The route I tried was 20m long and I touched down 6m from the wall when I lowered off. 

I worked it twice and then had a send go, which finished in an unexpected foot pop before the crux. Next go I was just too tired and it took forever to get to the top and get the draws out. This is the crag I’m going to train for. Brilliant place.

Resting this week, but will probably have some unstructured, fun, climbing this weekend.

 AJM 08 Jan 2023
In reply to AJM:

Monday - glorious Portland winter sunshine. Family faff day - MrsAJM led a route, miniAJM tried really hard on toprope, I led a few things to 6b+

Tuesday - inset day for miniAJM. Indoor wall, decent session, off the last move of a project

Wednesday - 3.5 mile round trip walking to work. Then 3x10 feet elevated rows and 2x15 feet elevated pushups in the evening.

Thursday - about 4 mile round trip to work via nursery. Stretching in the evening.

Friday - stretching. Rehab. 2 sets of slow feet elevated pushups.

Saturday - pretty busy day out with the kids, modest amount of walking and carrying and lugging. Then before bed a few more sets of pushups, a little stretching and some sets of squats.

Sunday - wall. Ticked the project from last visit, did a few other things. Full on family faff trip though with one of miniAJMs friends also there.

 SteveJC94 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Mega stats again Derek, really interesting to see the highlights that you pick out! 

I though I may as well be ambitious with the goals this year and if I manage just two of them I'll be chuffed! 

The shoulder tear is continuing to improve and I ever manage to try hard on the board this week.

M - Rest

T - Varied deadhang grips on the 20mm edge, 5 second hangs @ 8/10 RPE. 3 x half crimp; 2 x front 3 hc; 2 x back 3 hc; 3 x 3 finger drag.

Followed up with 10 problems on the 30 degree board (6B+; 6B+; 6C; 6C; 6C+; 6C+; 7A; 7A; 7A; 7A)

3 x 10 hanging knee raises; 3 x 10 windscreen wipers

W - follow-up with the physio. Happy with how things are progressing,  though noted that I've got 20 degress less rotation to the rear on my right shoulder, largely caused by a very tight upper peck so I've been given some additional stretches to do now.

T - Boulder triples ( 3 problems at flash grade in 3 minutes x 6 sets)

3 x 5 weighted pull ups @ 90% (BW + 23kg). 3 x 6 shoulder press; 3 x 10 bent over row; 3 x 16 twisting crunches; 3 x 16 dish tuck; 3 x 16 superman

F - Rest

S - Rest

S - Sopping wet everywhere locally so opted for some project bouldering on the new yellow/orange set at Depot

 Steve Claw 08 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Thank you Derek, very detailed stats.

I have had a varied week, doing a mixture of rehab exercises and low intensity climbing.

M - Played on the Brean trad,  TR on Sidewinder (E3 5c) and Pandora's Box (VS 4c)  All good fun

T - Took my eldest indoor bouldering and did the level V2-V3 circuit in trainers, as a rehab level of intensity

W - 3 sets of 6*30s density hangs

T - 2 Sets of 6*30s density hangs

F - More Brean fun - TR on Zeus (E3 5c) and Great Corner (E2 5a)  Zeus was a bit too intense for my rehab as its quite steep.

S - Easy Indoor bouldering with the children

S - Rest

 Ally Smith 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for stats.  I identified a weakness in my core from pre-Christmas sessions, so making sure that gets addressed on a regular basis.  The other thing to work on is strength in front-lever type positions - hence the rings, and once set up with a 2nd pulley, levers with assistance. 

Week 1

BHM – Car shopping and DIY. Crimpd static core with 7kg dumbbell.

T – Warm-up of 5x5 pull-ups @BW+5kg. Gradual FB increase from +5 to +30kg on F3 drag. Then full set 6x10s @BW+35kg. Followed by BW+7.5kg on my custom made holds to mimic crux of one of my projects. Superset combo of Crimpd Bar-core and shoulder-press/push-up sessions.

W – Crimpd Static holds with 7kg dumbbell.

T – 5x5 on-the-minute pull-ups BW+5kg, superset with shoulder-press/push-up session.  Board warm-up, then 6 in 6 an-cap session on Salathe + 5x 7A+ BMs. A few slips and failures, but good session intensity none the less.  Wrist achy afterwards.  Rehab in the evening – light weights and long duration isometrics.

F – Floor core AND static holds with 7kg dumbbell. Shoulder-press/push-up session along with wrist rehab.

S – Clicky wrist doesn’t stop me from hanging, so FB’d. Warm-up of 5x5 pull-ups @BW+5kg then 6x 10s hangs on custom holds @BW+10kg.  Then on to BM2K central slot 1-arm hangs @BW-5kg. Deliberately sub maximal as not done 1-arm work for 4 wks. More wrist rehab in the evening.

S – Floor core AND static holds. Shoulder stability work-out; 1-arm scap engagements 5x5 with 2kg. Crimpd “Compression” on rings.

 Tom Green 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi All! Thanks for the write-up, Derek, good commentary on us all.

Week 1:

Not the best start to the year. Dropped both fingers/strength sessions.

M: Rest.

T: Trail run. 12.4km, 406m vert, 6:44/km. Techy mudfest.

W: Dry tooling at Masson. Had planned a big sesh, after Sunday's lacklustre effort, but was similarly mediocre. Given that I should have been feeling fresh and strong, I'm not sure what to blame it on -maybe lack of drive as I was only repeating routes so didn't actually have that 'death or glory' vibe?! Raises interesting questions about how much psych and desire affect how the physical side of climbing feels. Should I be able to turn on that focus and fight on more than just the 'big events'? Or is it normal and ok to only be able to pull out max effort when it really matters?

T: Prehab. No core due to sore back.

F: Nowt. Back still sore.

S: Trail run. 11.6km, 470m vert, 6:43/km. More tricky mud wading.

S: Hill walk. 14.5km, 970m, challenging cons! Had a few hours to kill before meeting friends in Penrith so went for a quick romp up Striding Edge. Ferocious weather, with a good white out on top. Abandoned plan to descend Swirral as not sure I could hit the top off a bearing without walking through the rapidly building cornices! Good nav practice getting off the Helvellyn plateau. Tweaked back slipping off a little rock step so now it's sore in a different place!

Week 2:

M: Rest.

T: Fingerboard, strength.

W: Prehab.

T: Run.

F: Fingerboard.

S: Climbing.

S: Climbing.

STG (end Feb):

10 winter routes.

Average 27.5km running per week. 

Max hangs: 92kg

Pull-ups: 97kg.

Weatherproof and rebuild home board.

MTG (end Apr):

The Jim Grin (7a)

4 of my big UK mountain day list.

Average 37.5km running per week.

Average 2 board circuit sessions per week.

Max hangs 96kg

Pull-ups: 102kg

LTG (End July):

Sula (E2 5b)

Classic Envers rock route.

One of my Grande Course wish list.

 the sheep 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

> The Sheep:  come back whenever you are ready.  We’ll all be here!

Thanks Derek, good to be back and posting again

I didn't post last week as I wanted to crack on a get a full more "normal" week under my belt with the kids back at school and back into their normal evening/weekend routines for swimming and running. 

Monday, kids were still off but had a swim training session at lunchtime so the wife and I took the opportunity to head out for a run. Got a decent 6km run in to kick start the half marathon training.

Tuesday, got called into work a day early due to an ultra deep freezer disaster. Managed to sort issues as best as possible and took the opportunity whilst onsite to hit the pool for the fist time in a while. was happy to comfortably still clock a 1km swim. Kids had swim training in the evening so also got another 6k run in. Same route as the previous day but was able to up the pace a bit (still slow though     )

Wednesday, officially back at work so clocked a 1km swim. put a bit more effort in and was happily not too far off my normal pace. A good starting point for the year ahead.

Thursday, stretch class.

Friday, back in the pool for another 1km swim

Saturday, technically a rest day, however spent most of it ferrying kids between work/training and social activities.

Sunday, back out running again with the wife. Another 6km run, a tad over just so we could log the longest run of the year. 

Very happy to be up and about again, shaking off the cobwebs from last year. Looking forward to building now to the Saltmarsh Half at the beginning of April. Got a few other goals, locally I want to run the route of the Croft Canter that clocks in at 10 miles and also the Charnwood Hills that comes in at 14. Interestingly when raced it classes as a fell race which is cool for Leicestershire. Also for organised events I want to do the Battle of Bosworth sprint triathlon (and beat my pervious time) and the Beacon Hill Solstice Run. 

Further afield my wife and I are planning on doing the round the island route on Mersea Island where she grew up which clocks in at 13 miles and also run from Castleton to Edale along the skyline when we are on holiday there in July which should come in at around  20 miles. 

Finally I also want to do an Olympic distance tri, just haven't found the right one yet, really like the look of the Gower one but we already have plans that weekend!

Anyway its good to be reporting in again and looking forward to a very active 2023 

 inglesp 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

> I noticed that Laughing Cavaliers isn’t on the list, but presumably one that you have ticked already?  There is also No Musketeers (with the direct finish) which cis also excellent.

Yes, I've done them both -- my first HVSes I think, at the end of my first summer climbing, and just before a very wet autumn and then lockdowns.

> I’ve done loads at the Yat, Wintours Leap, Avon, Wyndcliff and Shorncliffe, but have never been to Ban Y Gor, so keep meaning to make a trip back to old stomping grounds, particularly as one of my partners has an affection for Symond’s Yat.

Do let me know if you're in the area!

Last week

M - 6kmrun, hills, mud.

T - Quiet day at home.

W - Social climbing at the Warehouse -- good to see people after Christmas.  I got on a 7a and did the moves.  Crux is a shouldery bump on an overhang, which to me feels fine when you're fresh and then when you're not, the hold you're going for seems impossibly far away!

T - Back to the Warehouse and worked on the trickier bottom half of the 7a.  If I can do the lower moves more smoothly, I should have enough left in the tank for the headwall, which is more my style.

F - 11km run, by the canal, puddles.

S - Took youngest child (E, 5) toproping.  She loved it and after getting a bit higher each time she tried, she got to the top, and then did it again on just the pink holds.  Highlight of my week!

S morning - Had planned a session of 4x4s at 6a to build my endurance.  The Warehouse was pretty busy, so I did some less-structured laps based on which autobelays were free.  I go very quickly from feeling like I'm climbing well to being too pumped to think clearly, so I think I should do more of this over the next few months.

S evening - 8km run, mostly flat roads.  I sleep so much better when I'm physically tired!

This week

Planning on at least one projecting session at the Warehouse, some 4x4s, and an evening of social bouldering, as well as a couple of longer runs.

Post edited at 13:10
 Liam P 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Cheers Derek. I don’t think I’ll be able to go foreign (which is annoying as Norway looks like it’s shaping up already) but I’ve pencilled in a Scotland trip for March so fingers crossed. There’s a long list of ice lines on my wish list but I daren’t name them yet!

OAPU Club is coming on. It was derailed a bit last year with a thoracic twinge but I’m pretty sure an inability to hinge at the hips led to that (see Downward Dog Club). I’ve slowed down the assisted pull progressions and making steady progress through that - currently repping hand on mid-bicep pull-ups.

Hamstring stretching is going well with marginal gains. I’ve found the front splits stretch the greatest bang for my buck as I get a free hip flexor/quad stretch on the opposing leg. It also allows a good mid-body hamstring stretch without flexing my mid-back to touch my toes.

Anyway, not a bad first week back!

Tue

Wall

  • V2-4 Circuit to get back in to it. Had another crack at the Lime Coloured “expert” project and got to the same penultimate crimp which still feels like the living end - Christmas weight belt can’t be helping.
  • Hamstring Stretch

Wed

Cuttings Boulderfield

  • First time on rock in 2 months! Had a half day pootle around some old benchmarks to see where I am. Great to be out but depressing to see I’ve regressed from this time last year. Also 10lb heavier which explains a lot…
  • Hamstring Stretch

Thu

Headed out again but rained off at the crag

  • Hamstring Stretch

Fri & Sat

  • Hamstring Stretch

Sun

Wall

  • Warmup (Psuedo Planche Push-ups 3x 5, 3x V3, Scap Pulls 3x 8, Hamstring Stretch)
  • OAPU 3x 1 (2 fingers down bicep)
  • Couple hours Bouldering up to V5
OP Derek Furze 09 Jan 2023
In reply to the sheep:

Welcome back Sheep!  Edale Skyline is on my doorstep, so very happy to provide ground support if it helps (brew, cake, bacon butty or whatever).

In reply to Tom Green:

You were only a move or two off the end of each route. As a training session I thought it was productive for you. If you'd have needed to tick you'd have just rested more between goes and then squeezed out a couple of extra moves. I don't think you need to worry, it's all miles in the tank.

OP Derek Furze 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thought this was a reference to my flight down the stairs at first glance...😂

 Tom Green 09 Jan 2023
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks mate. Yep, think you’re right, and I’m fairly chilled about it. Was a fun session and felt a good workout (as drytooling always does!)

Just intrigued by the difference in how things feel when climbed with different mindsets! Other than drytooling (due to the limited number of tooling routes available) I rarely (pretty much never!) repeat routes, so it wasn’t something I’d really thought about before. It’s got me wondering whether practicing trying hard even when I’m not that bothered about the result is worthwhile for being able to access that level of fight when it does matter. Can you practice that ‘a muerte’ approach?

In reply to Tom Green:

I can't 'turn it on' unless I care about it.  I hardly ever repeat routes unless seconding them in which case I often have a sit on the rope anyway to save myself for whatever I want to do next!

 the sheep 13 Jan 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Fab, that sounds great, thank you   


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