UKC

Early June Mont Blanc 23

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 Alpsman 11 Jan 2023

Hi all,

I was lucky enough to secure Gouter Hut for 3 nights in the first few days of June.

I had planned for June or July, but was limited due to availability to Early June (1st few days) or into August Sep when the Couloir would be more of a risk.

Was pretty happy with myself. Lots of planning, and a pinch of luck!

Only to find out that my NEW and EARLIER dates have given me two new problems.

1) the Mont Blanc Tram - which would have taken me to 2300m (Nid d'Aigle ), giving me a nice trek to Tete Rousse and then on to Gouter - will not be running until mid june. 

This means, i can take the tram to about 1800m Bellevue, and will have 2000m climb to gouter.

Much longer day than i had previously planned.

2) the Cable cars from Chamonix up to 3800 meters will not be operational until Mid June in mid week. This was to be our main acclimatization route. over multiple days, doing verious training at 3800m.

Can anyone advise, if there is an alternative route to achieving the 2300m Nid d'Aigle  start point.... 
I have heard of people driving to significant starting points.. but im unsure on this...

Can anyone advise on their preferred acclimatization spots around chamonix - and ill check their cable car/tram opening times.

Thanks all

In reply to Alpsman:

The aiguille du midi lift will be open mid week at the end of May/beginning of June. 

The Cosmiques and Torino huts are usually open then too.

If the Tramway isn't yet open you can get a 4x4 taxi to the col de Vosa and then walk from there- it's a lovely trail. It does make it a longer day up to the Gouter hut, but going from Gouter>summit>Gouter the next day is a shortish day. I usually go from Tete Rousse>summit>Gouter, which is very manageable.

If you did want to split the walk upo to the Gouter hut up you could look at spending a night at the Nid d'Aigle hut- a small refuge just up from the train station.

OP Alpsman 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

This response is super helpful thank you.

I will investigate this, and report back.


Thank you sir!

OP Alpsman 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Alpsman:

Good stuff - aiguille du midi lift will be open - THANK YOU

Regarding col de Vosa >Gouter...

do you have a link to this route at all?

what was your experience time wise on this route?

Thanks again

 Tony the Blade 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Alpsman:

I'm afraid that there is no easier way. I have walked up to Belle Vue many times, from both Les Houches and also Les Bettières.

MB for me wasn't a smash-and-grab attempt, we wanted to take our time and enjoy being up there. So we walked from Les Houches (Car parked at the Maison Neuve Chairlift) up to Tete Rousse, spent a lovely night there then took a slow ascent up to the Goûter Hut for another night. Setting off at 1.30am I summited (My partner decided he didn't fancy the Bosses Ridge, leaving me to solo the last climb and return) then walked back down to the valley for a well-earned pint.

We didn't book the huts in advance as we wanted to be sure of a three day weather window. We booked them the day before going up.

Our acclimatisation was spent climbing Petite Aiguille Verte.

Edit: This was early July

Post edited at 11:02
OP Alpsman 11 Jan 2023

Thank you for the reply.

We will be doing pretty much the same as you.

We are all quite fast paced naturally though.

We couldn't get in at tete rousse as nothing available and didn't fancy the couloir so late in the day, which is why we were looking for a route to 2300m to get us to Couloir earlier in the day.

Did you come down directly after our summit? or get a night in at the Gouter after? how long was your descent?

All great advice and replys.

Thanks

 Tony the Blade 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Alpsman:

You could try the Refuge du Nid d'Aigle, at least you will have the 'track section' behind you, which seems to go on for ever!

I understand your reticence regarding the Grand Couloir, maybe we were just lucky but there wasn't too much rock-fall. Possibly something to do with being early in the summer months.

Yes, I returned to Les Houches from the summit, alone! From memory I summited at 8am, spent half an hour up there (Photos and a phone call to my wife) then set off back down (Again the GC seemed passable so I just went for it), I reached Les Houches at about 6pm... completely spent.

Post edited at 11:22
OP Alpsman 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Tony the Blade:

Yes, I returned to Les Houches from the summit, alone! From memory I summited at 8am, spent half an hour up there (Photos and a phone call to my wife) then set off back down (Again the GC seemed passable so I just went for it), I reached Les Houches at about 6pm... completely spent.

THIS SOUNDS LIKE AN EPIC DAY - Beast mode!!!

Cheers Tony ill check that refuge out!

OP Alpsman 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Tony the Blade:

I was wondering if you know how to book Refuge du Nid d'Aigle

unlike Tete Rousse and Gouter - i am unable to find an online portal.


Thank you

 CantClimbTom 11 Jan 2023
In reply to Alpsman:

Set off 1 day earlier

Walkup beside the tramway late afternoon (feeling hot and wishing it was running).

Get a 1 night booking at Tete Rousse if you can, stay there.

Cross the grand couloire before 09:30 and at all costs cross it  *BEFORE* it gets direct sun mid morning as then it comes alive

Scramble up to Gouter and resume your plan-A

Post edited at 17:13
 gooberman-hill 12 Jan 2023
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

The Bellevue chairlift might be open, otherwise park at the roadhead above Les Houches and walk:

W3W: https://w3w.co/nosed.diodes.bonfires

​​​​​​For acclimatization you could do worse than Arolla. Maybe the Pigne d'Arolle with a night in a hut.

 philipjardine 12 Jan 2023
In reply to Alpsman:

If you get to the top on foot in early June, most other people up there will be on skis!


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