UKC

Greetwell Quarry access and ethics

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 cambromo 13 Feb 2023

Hi, I've found myself ending up in Lincoln, with no hope of climbing 

I visited greetwell, looking at right hand side of the quarry that faces the Lincoln bypass. The rock seems somewhat solid with parts crumbly. This section of rock will at least provide 10-20 routes with some creativity. 

The left hand side didn't inspire as much confidence however if there are stable sections there would be plenty to do

It's hard to contact the people who may have once been interested in it. My main curiosity would be would anyone be against bolting this quarry in sections, mainly for lowering off to avoid the scree at the top and providing protection in the most solid parts of the rock.

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In reply to cambromo:

My commiserations. I once had a brilliant job in lincoln, but the commute from Sheffield got too much so we moved over there. That lasted less than a year, before we sold up and moved back. We had been commuting multiple times a week back to Sheffield and the Peak just to go climbing!

I had a wander around Greetwell a couple of times to see if there was anything worth developing. From what I remember, there was some potential on the side you mention but I thought the poor rock and scree didn’t justify the effort. Add to this the open aspect to all the dog walkers and trail bikes and drawing attention to yourself, it didn’t seem like the drive to the Peak was such a bad option.

 Pekkie 14 Feb 2023
In reply to cambromo:

Yo Cambo! Thought you were coming back to Merseyside. Greetwell Quarry is on UKC and it looks like there is considerable scope for bouldering there, some of which has been developed which implies that access is OK. I would be careful about bolting in such a conspicuous place. Who owns it? What is it allocated for in the local plan? Is it a nature reserve? Also if the rock is questionable you might catch the blame if there was an accident. And what is the local ethic? From the UKC page it looks like bouldering, a bit of scary trad and some top roping. I would get a good mat and stick to bouldering!

Post edited at 16:05
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OP cambromo 14 Feb 2023
In reply to Pekkie:

Heyo Pete, came down briefly before getting dragged back sooner than I expected.

Who owns it I guess with it being a mix of a reserve and the council. 

I haven't been able to track down any original ascentionists but I'll message you with the rest of my thoughts on it. 

 dr_botnik 16 Feb 2023
In reply to cambromo:

I was living in Lincoln when all the stuff listed on UKC was being developed. I didn't meet all the developers, but I did once bump into some young guys who showed me some of the problems and may have been first ascentionists of some (but not all). They were associating under a now defunct facebook group. It might be worth inquiring with Lincoln Mountaineering Club, maybe one of their members knows more, and they are an active bunch of climbers so it would be worth getting to know them http://www.lincolnmountaineeringclub.org.uk/


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