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UK 8a's for trad climbers

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 dinodinosaur 15 Feb 2023

There's a fair few trad climbs for sport climbers threads and lists but what about the inverse.

Something that's either long and pumpy or cruxy with good rests or involves trad features like cracks and grooves. Mid length power endurance routes are out. 

 Tyler 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Most UK sport routes are mid-length PE or shorter but if this is for you I wouldn’t have thought that would be an issue if the grades on your profile are correct, 7C is more than strong enough for any 8a in the country, even bouldery ones. That said Defcon 3 in Gordale (might only be 7c+) the Thumb (Kilnsey) and Central Pillar at Castell y Gwynt might fit your criteria. Zoolook definitely does but is (I think) hard for the grade. I’d say Main Overhang at Malham is PE but if you’re used to recovering on small edges it might fit the bill as it is low angle (relatively).  Personally I’d just choose one that inspires and that you can get a belayer on, like I said, you’ll have strength to spare.

Bamboo/Straightened - long and depends on complete recovery at a good rest.

The Bulge - good line. 

Post edited at 10:30
 Dan Arkle 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

The Prow, Raven Tor. 

Equivalent to 3 stacked 7c pitches, with lots rests and cunning ways to make it easier. A logistical pig to work. 

 snoop6060 15 Feb 2023
In reply to Dan Arkle:

What’s this cunning way? Hopefully some sort of super dyno that bypasses the first 2 bolts as that is the hardest section for me. I’ve still never managed it! 

 james.slater 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

I am predomintantly a trad climber working towards 8a as well. The one I have picked out as a potential candidate is Canyonlands at Pantymwyn. Majority of the route is pumpy 7b+ to a reasonable rest and then a shorter cruxy headwall.

 smally 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Leopold (8a)

A crack, with the crux involving a throw for a fingerlock.

Plus it's in a stunning location, although maybe not the most accessible route depending on your locale.

 spidermonkey09 15 Feb 2023
In reply to Tyler:

Defcon is definitely 7c+ I think. I was going to suggest the Thumb. Traddy climbing and really not that hard until the crux section, before which you get a big rest. You still get boxed but its definitely a more traddy experience than the Bulge, which needs more sport climbing fitness.

 Paul Sagar 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Just pull harder on Fighting Torque!

Seriously though, I thunk you’re giving up too easily on sending this. Ok you’ve fallen on the final move 5 times. But that’s nothing. Imagine it was a boulder problem and how often you might fall. Think of pros who fall 30 times on the same move. Remember you only need to stick it once!

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In reply to Dan Arkle:

> The Prow, Raven Tor. 

> Equivalent to 3 stacked 7c pitches, with lots rests and cunning ways to make it easier. A logistical pig to work. 

This was my first 8a and I definitely fit the criteria of being a trad climber at the time, although did have to turn myself into a sport climber temporarily in order to get this done.

8a - after all - isn't easy!!

 Joemullett24 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Not a super classic but sticky wicket into the ashes at Kilnsey is quite long and sustained with a crux at the top and a good rest before hand, is french 7b into maybe a font 6b+ boulder if i remember correct 

Post edited at 13:18
 Misha 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

The Groove pitch on Quarryman is meant to be 8a and about as trad style as it gets!

I’ve wondered about this myself, though not necessarily at 8a. I think the real answer is once you move into steeper sport terrain you just have to embrace the PE and steep climbing techniques. There will be trad style sport routes around in the higher 7s and above but not many. Reason being that most trad style routes at that level will actually be trad. You’d probably have richer pickings headpointing those trad routes (of course there many be various reasons not to headpoint them).

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 Ian Patterson 15 Feb 2023
In reply to Misha:

Tyler alread picked 2 of my 3 (2?) 8as in Baboo and Defcon so they probably fit the requirements pretty well.  Unfortunately I probably have to agree that Defcon is really 7c+ so not a good choice if you're looking for a first 8a!

My other is The Perfect Mirage at Gordale, which I though was excellent and gives hardish moves split by shakes type climbing, is pretty long and has a Gordale style traddy feel.

Since you've got that decent boulde strength Canyonlands at Devils Gorge might fit, 18m steep 7b+, to decentish rest followed by a headwall that I believe has a 6C/+ ish crux

 spidermonkey09 15 Feb 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

I was going to suggest TPM as well, although I haven't done it I've belayed on it and would seem to fit the bill. The 7c next to it, Cement Garden is very traddy (and very good). 


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